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Pressure washer quick disconnect.

X1 Mike

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So last weekend the pump went on my pressure washer and while I order my new pump I might as well make it a little easier to use. I am buying some quick disconnects for the supply (low pressure) side.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBJY42W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

What I would like to know is if someone makes anything for the high pressure side? I am talking from the pump to the hose that the wand is attached to. As it is a lot of times I don't even bother using the pressure washer because it's more of a hassle. I'm looking to make it a 2 minute set up.
 
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4xdog

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Both of my pressure washers (a DeVilbiss gasoline from c 2003 and a Kärcher electric from 2018) have high pressure hoses with quick releases on both ends.

They're not DIY fittings, though -- way too high working pressure. Ya gotta go with factory-spec mods or you're exposing everyone to too much risk of a blowout.
 

Lyt

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JimH74

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I picked up some high pressure washer fittings at northern tool. I get coupons in the mail for like 5 off 15, 10 off 50, 20 off 100 (I think those are the values)
 

kythri

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741FQG19/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Search for M22 Pressure Washer Quick Connect and you'll find tons and tons of results. That's just one example.

As mentioned, a lot of pressure washers come with these already, they're pretty common.

I'm unsure what was meant by "they're not DIY fittings" - they're a readily-available consumer-installed part. Put them on both ends of your hose, on the pressure washer, and on the gun. Quick and easy setup and teardown.
 

rlitman

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If they were easy to find do ya really think I would be asking the question. Looking for a bit of advise or help.

Sorry. I think you're just looking in the wrong places. I've seen them displayed adjacent to pressure washer hoses and nozzles at Home Depot, Sears, etc. A 2-second search found a set for $18 on Amazon, but I can't confirm if that fits your needs exactly.
 

4xdog

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...I'm unsure what was meant by "they're not DIY fittings" - they're a readily-available consumer-installed part...

My mistake there, then -- I'd always been taught, apparently out of an overabundance of caution, not to do home repairs on hydraulic pressure lines.
 
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X1 Mike

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741FQG19/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Search for M22 Pressure Washer Quick Connect and you'll find tons and tons of results. That's just one example.

As mentioned, a lot of pressure washers come with these already, they're pretty common.

I'm unsure what was meant by "they're not DIY fittings" - they're a readily-available consumer-installed part. Put them on both ends of your hose, on the pressure washer, and on the gun. Quick and easy setup and teardown.

That was what I was unsure of. I never tried to put any other connecter on so my wrong assumption was it was just a 3/4" hose end fitting.

Is this what I need M22-15mm quick connect?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4HR1R7/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

driz

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I got mine I Walmart a few years back. Fantastic little gadget especially if you wash down cars all winter . It lets me just rock it back to let the pump drain and store it right in a cold shed all winter.


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kythri

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X1 Mike: What make/model pressure washer do you have? What's the model of the pump you just ordered/replaced?
 

kythri

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So, here's your pump:

41nyXna6seL._AC_.jpg

You're going to want something like this (not saying this one specifically, but similar):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PQ1V8N8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

To attach to the male outlet of your pressure washer.

Then you'll need the appropriate attachments for both ends of your hose (mine is setup with one end male QD, the other end female QD, and then the male ****** job for your gun.

You'll need to measure it out, or just contact Briggs & Stratton/Troy Bilt and see if they can tell you what size fittings you need.
 

Lyt

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That was what I was unsure of. I never tried to put any other connecter on so my wrong assumption was it was just a 3/4" hose end fitting.

Is this what I need M22-15mm quick connect?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4HR1R7/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The cheaper electric pressure washers tend to use M22-15 whereas the better stuff uses M22-14. Likely your's a M22-14 connection. Don't know if you missed the links I provided, but I got my pressure washer stuff from Obsessed Garage. Get stainless if you can, they last longer.
 
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X1 Mike

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The cheaper electric pressure washers tend to use M22-15 whereas the better stuff uses M22-14. Likely your's a M22-14 connection. Don't know if you missed the links I provided, but I got my pressure washer stuff from Obsessed Garage. Get stainless if you can, they last longer.

Thanks, I will check it out.
 

driz

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So, here's your pump:



41nyXna6seL._AC_.jpg



You're going to want something like this (not saying this one specifically, but similar):



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PQ1V8N8/?tag=atomicindus08-20



To attach to the male outlet of your pressure washer.



Then you'll need the appropriate attachments for both ends of your hose (mine is setup with one end male QD, the other end female QD, and then the male ****** job for your gun.



You'll need to measure it out, or just contact Briggs & Stratton/Troy Bilt and see if they can tell you what size fittings you need.



That’s a good idea putting QD. On BOTH ENDS! One got just the pump end and still get the tangle. That would help a lot?
You’re also right about stainless. I guess mine are but they still are getting a tad funky, the male end in particular.


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AmericanMechanic

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For the low pressure side, this is what you want. Dramm American made 100% brass. Before i discovered Dramm, i was using chinese fakes from the big box stores. They are coated to look brass, but inside are aluminum and other cheap materials, and after a season or two corrode and won't even fit together. Brass builds a nice brown patina, but in no way affects function.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002J0PMOS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

sberry

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Pressure wash direct has them rather cheap. Some hose has npt and adapt to m22 which is about a pain in the ****. I think couplers are about 3$ and plugs about a buck. I bought half a dozen each last order and change then out about once a year on the one I use daily, just before winter where I disconnect the wand daily.
The plugs get a burr on them, it can be polished off which I do but often just toss it for a new one.
 
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Milton Shaw

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The best low side disconnect is the one that ACE hardware has. Solid brass with both male and female hose couplers and a couple of extra plugs. This set sells for about $20 and has a cutoff on the male end of the hose, so you don't have to go back to the faucet to turn off. This also works at the pressure washer so you can turn it off, relieve pressure and change the high side coupler/wand. The only problem I have had is that the "O" ring inside the coupler will occasionally come out if you use it without a plug in it. I have tried plastic /zinc from Home DEpot and Northern and they don't compare well with the ACE ones for about the same money. Northern's high side coupler works ok and I have several of them.
 

rlitman

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The best low side disconnect is the one that ACE hardware has. Solid brass with both male and female hose couplers and a couple of extra plugs. This set sells for about $20 and has a cutoff on the male end of the hose, so you don't have to go back to the faucet to turn off. This also works at the pressure washer so you can turn it off, relieve pressure and change the high side coupler/wand. The only problem I have had is that the "O" ring inside the coupler will occasionally come out if you use it without a plug in it. I have tried plastic /zinc from Home DEpot and Northern and they don't compare well with the ACE ones for about the same money. Northern's high side coupler works ok and I have several of them.

I've used the Gilmour brass quick disconnect with auto-shutoff that work like an air QD. They were expensive, and I had to get rid of them all.

They had two fundamental flaws.
1) The insertion force was above the wife-limit. Yeah, I could use them, but when I'm the only one in the household who could comfortable push the middle against water pressure, that's no good, and
2) The shutoff had a nasty habit of getting stuck. It would get jammed in at an angle, and then the end would often end up as junk.

I switched to the HF brass style that has no integral shutoff, and put the QD ends just outside of a brass hose-end ball valve. You shut off the water pressure separately, so the insertion force is minimal. The problem with the HF style is that they rely on a special washer that fails once a year, and is hard to find (my local Ace stocks them, but not HF oddly enough).

Ace by me also sells a similar one that uses an o-ring to seal, which I think might last longer. There's even one with an integral ball valve if you want to spend the money.
 

Paycheck

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The cheaper electric pressure washers tend to use M22-15 whereas the better stuff uses M22-14. Likely your's a M22-14 connection. Don't know if you missed the links I provided, but I got my pressure washer stuff from Obsessed Garage. Get stainless if you can, they last longer.

14-15mm adapters are available.
 

joe_pinehill1

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I bought a kit at Lowes. It came with QDs all the interfaces. The low pressure garden hose side and high pressure. I have a QD on the output of the pump and on the nozzle gun, and both ends of the high pressure hose.

I find it handy to put a shut off ball valve on the garden hose before the QD, so I can turn the water off without running to the hose bib.



https://www.lowes.com/pd/SurfaceMaxx-Pro-Quick-Connect-Kit-4500-PSI/1000382311
 

foodie

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I bought from AM Leonard quick disconnects all brass and very well made. I used the quick disconnects for my pressure washer from Obsessed Garage they are great also. I also have the ball valve QD for my hose also so I don’t have to run to the hose bib to shut it off.
 

mikegt4

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Last fall after 23 years of use my PW pump died. Replaced the pump this summer and picked up some quick disconnects at HD, way better than the Euro style that my PW originally had.
 
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X1 Mike

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I bought a kit at Lowes. It came with QDs all the interfaces. The low pressure garden hose side and high pressure. I have a QD on the output of the pump and on the nozzle gun, and both ends of the high pressure hose.

I find it handy to put a shut off ball valve on the garden hose before the QD, so I can turn the water off without running to the hose bib.



https://www.lowes.com/pd/SurfaceMaxx-Pro-Quick-Connect-Kit-4500-PSI/1000382311


That kit looks like it would have been an all in one solution. As it was I bought two sets from Amazon to do the job and I connected everything and it seems right.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y4T5V52/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V2ZGY4M/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just never realized that they were two different style threads for low and high pressure sides. derrrrrr

Now my only problem left is installing the pump. Some of the reviews like the one below mention an unload valve and I have no idea what that is.

My head number was 92840020. It does take seconds to swap out but there is one tricky part around the Unload Valve. Since there are no directions it took me a bit to figure this out and then had to come back and notice one comment on an earlier review. When moving the Unload Valve from the broken head to the new one you need to get the valve seat out of the broken head also. The new head does not come with the valve seat in it. Mine was a copper/brass color down inside my broken head. Two tricks to getting this out: 1-the valve seat is threaded so if you find the correct bolt to thread in just pull it out that way, 2-(this is the way I did it) took a cutting wheel on my grinder and cut off the tube that has the seat in it so I could pound it out with a punch, actually worked great you just need to cut it off to get at it from the other side. Once seat is out, tap it into the new head and insert your Unload Valve.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H9TOI6W/?tag=atomicindus08-20
 

kythri

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An unloader valve is a knob/valve assembly that asjusts the pressure of the spray. Most "consumer" grade machines don't have one.

If you've got a sub-3000 PSI Troy-Bilt/Briggs & Stratton machine, it very likely doesn't have one.

Here's a variety of them for visual reference:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=unloader+valve&i=lawngarden&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

My Troy-Bilt 3000 PSI / 2.7 GPM did not have one.
 
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X1 Mike

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An unloader valve is a knob/valve assembly that asjusts the pressure of the spray. Most "consumer" grade machines don't have one.

If you've got a sub-3000 PSI Troy-Bilt/Briggs & Stratton machine, it very likely doesn't have one.

Here's a variety of them for visual reference:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=unloader+valve&i=lawngarden&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

My Troy-Bilt 3000 PSI / 2.7 GPM did not have one.


Kythri, you've been a great help, thanks. I'll go ahead and put it together. :thumbup:
 

sberry

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An unloader valve is a knob/valve assembly that asjusts the pressure of the spray. Most "consumer" grade machines don't have one.

If you've got a sub-3000 PSI Troy-Bilt/Briggs & Stratton machine, it very likely doesn't have one.

Here's a variety of them for visual reference:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=unloader+valve&i=lawngarden&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

My Troy-Bilt 3000 PSI / 2.7 GPM did not have one.

How does it unload when the trigger is let off? A bypass actually allows the pressure to be adjusted, not all hi end ones have adjustable pressure. I am not familiar with all the small consumer level washers.
 

kythri

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There's some kind of internal bypass, is my understanding - I replaced the pump on my Troy-Bilt before giving it to my dad, and I just had to pop the three bolts from the pump to the motor, pull the pump off the drive shaft, and fit the new pump, bolt back up.

No unloader to swap.
 

sberry

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It must be internal. Got to have a way to unload it when the trigger is off, it would deadhead and blow up if it didn't. On hot models need to add a no flow to it to turn the burner off too.
 

kythri

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Good read here:

https://www.arnorthamerica.com/pages/the-role-of-the-unloader/

X1 Mike: I would inspect the new pump, compare it to the old, and ensure there's nothing on the old pump that isn't on the new pump.

I've replaced the pumps on two pressure washers now - my dad's original one that the pump blew out when I was using it, and most recently, the Troy-Bilt I spoke of, which I gave to him when my new pressure washer showed up.

Both of those, it was just a direct swap - the new pump assemblies were identical to the old, and there was nothing that I had to swap. The integral unloader or bypass was something the new pumps had in them already.
 

metlmunchr

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ALL pressure washer pumps have an unloader. Some are fixed pressure and some are adjustable. A pump with no unloader has 2 options when the trigger is released. It either chokes the engine down or the pump blows apart. Just depends on which is stronger.

The one Mike linked says in the description that it does not include the unloader, but that they do have the same available with the unloader included. Mike will have to swap his over to the new pump like the comment in the review he posted.
 
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X1 Mike

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I attached 2 pictures the first was the one I bought and the second is what it actually looks like. It did actually come with that valve and I didn't have to swap anything over.

All of my quick disconnects worked great when I tested it, no leaks anywhere and after I did some test spraying I set up my timer to see how long it took me to put away. To shut the water off, disconnect the supply water, empty the wand out, turn off compressor, put spray nozzle on garden hose, roll up hose, clean and roll up pressure washer hose, disassemble wand and put spray nozzle in handle, and roll pressure washer back into garage and shut door took me less than 6 minutes. I wasn't rushing just moving methodically so I'm pretty happy. If it's easier to use naturally I'll use it more.

Thanks for all the help!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:
 

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metlmunchr

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This is true only for gas powered pumps. Many electric pumps simply shut down the motor based on a pressure switch.

True. I was thinking of gas engine washers. We've got a heated one at our shop that has an oil burner and a electric motor belt driven pump, and it cycles the motor on and off when you pull or release the trigger. Cycles the oil burner along with the pump, else it would become a steam cleaner within a few seconds :D
 
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