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Pressure Washer Unloader Valve.

Old Man Roger

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I pulled out the pressure washer and had no pressure when I pulled the trigger, I turned the unloader valve all the way down and got pressure.

I don’t remember backing the unloader valve out the last time I used it? Does this mean my unloader is not working?

I would hate to damage the pump by leaving a malfunctioning unloader over adjusted.


IMG_0056.jpegIMG_0054.jpegIMG_0053.jpegIMG_0052.jpeg
 
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hans109h

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Just unscrew it and put some plumbing lube on all the moving parts and make sure it's not seized, then try again.

Hans
 

tarmy

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I have that same pump…they sell new ones on Amazon for 55 bucks for the valve.
 
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Old Man Roger

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Just unscrew it and put some plumbing lube on all the moving parts and make sure it's not seized, then try again.

Hans
It doesn’t seem to be stuck, it moves freely. I took it off and when the black knob is backed off all the way, I can move the brass plunger in an out by hand.
I have that same pump…they sell new ones on Amazon for 55 bucks for the valve.
Ya, I just dont know if it’s bad. Is it not supposed to be all the way screwed in to work? Since you have the same pump, could you tell me where yours is set?
Not the little set screw, I haven’t moved that adjustment, it’s just the black plastic knob adjustment that I have all the way down.
 

bmxdukie

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Check to see if the pump protector has been triggered.. it will also fail due to freezing
Or, if you let it unload lots. It will burn out the seals. Thus the low pressure.
And finally make sure your soap injector valve is closed
 

tarmy

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On mine…just like a hose bib. To unload the pressure turn counter clockwise. To increase pressure turn clockwise. The black knob part that is.IMG_1785.jpeg
 
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Old Man Roger

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Check to see if the pump protector has been triggered.. it will also fail due to freezing
Or, if you let it unload lots. It will burn out the seals. Thus the low pressure.
And finally make sure your soap injector valve is closed
I’ve never used soap, but I guess it could have vibrated open.

How would I know if the pump protector has been triggered? What is a pump protector? lol
On mine…just like a hose bib. To unload the pressure turn counter clockwise. To increase pressure turn clockwise. The black knob part that is.IMG_1785.jpeg
Does yours need to be all the way in to make full pressure? Mine makes no pressure at all until I’m about one full turn from all the way in.
 

tarmy

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Mine ramps up, maybe 3 full turns to get total high pressure. I start my engine with it totally unloaded and just hose bib pressure on…then open up throttle all the way and start turning the loader until it is in all the way and the engine takes up that load and starts bogging a bit. I assume yours is the same.

My pump gave out and I screwed with it and decided after 15 plus years I would just get a new pump/valve assembly. 200 bucks and bolted it on and GTG for about 5 years now. That Honda engine is just awesome…one pull after sitting for 10 months and it fires right up.

Good luck.
 
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Old Man Roger

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Mine ramps up, maybe 3 full turns to get total high pressure. I start my engine with it totally unloaded and just hose bib pressure on…then open up throttle all the way and start turning the loader until it is in all the way and the engine takes up that load and starts bogging a bit. I assume yours is the same.

My pump gave out and I screwed with it and decided after 15 plus years I would just get a new pump/valve assembly. 200 bucks and bolted it on and GTG for about 5 years now. That Honda engine is just awesome…one pull after sitting for 10 months and it fires right up.

Good luck.
I can’t tell if yours is the same 13hp Honda engine as mine, but it doesn’t bog down at all. It’s good to know you do turn your valve all the way in though. I just never remembered ever adjusting it before.

It‘s been a few years since I stored it though, so I may have turned the valve all the way out and just don’t remember doing it.

Like you, I put some gas in it and it started on the first pull, I was impressed.lol
 

mreisner

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Most likely you're unloader valve is corroded inside, sometimes when you put pump protector / antifreeze in for the winter it doesn't get in there and they rust badly. I have an electric hot water version of it but it has the same unloader on it, if it's the typical **** that Mi t M produces your father had just to get a new unloader than try to take it apart and clean it up. I've had to put several on mine over the years.
 
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Old Man Roger

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Most likely you're unloader valve is corroded inside, sometimes when you put pump protector / antifreeze in for the winter it doesn't get in there and they rust badly. I have an electric hot water version of it but it has the same unloader on it, if it's the typical **** that Mi t M produces your father had just to get a new unloader than try to take it apart and clean it up. I've had to put several on mine over the years.
I never even considered using an antifreeze since I was in south Florida the last time I used it, but even without the freeze threat, it probably would have been a good idea just for the anti corrosion aspect.

When I bought it years ago, the original owner stored for a long time. It did have a bunch of that white dusty **** that I had to flush out of the 3 valves on the pump.
 

giles45shop

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Odessa, FL
It sounds like it is working correctly, you can always put in in-line pressure gauge and check. I always back mine off when I'm done using it because it makes it a lot easier to start (Honda 13 HP w/ CAT 45G gear drive pump). I realize you can also squeeze the trigger on the wand to reduce back pressure, but loosening the unloader valve is my method of choice. I have a quick connect pressure gauge between the pump output and the hose so I can adjust pressure as needed. As I recall, it takes a couple turns once the spring starts to compress to get to fill pressure.
 

Hohn

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Unloaders are not pressure regulators. They should not be used for setting pressure. They are there only to prevent the pump from hydraulically exploding from trying to pumps into a confined space.

If you want to lower the pressure, you should use a larger orifice nozzle in your wand.

It looks like this unloader is the cheaper kind that has no buffer tank bypass output, it only recirculates to the pump inlet. That's why you do not want to let the pressure washer run in "unloaded" state for any prolonged period-- you will burn up the pump because all that shaft work heat into the water has nowhere to go.

That's why pro washers use buffer/snubber tanks so the unloader valve flow recirculates in a much higher volume loop with more water and more surface area. This keeps the pump cool when in prolonged bypass.

You probably know that pumps don't make pressure, they produce flow. The restriction of the nozzle is what causes the pressure. So you can vary the pressure with the nozzle.


With my 4.0gpm washer, the 5.0 nozzle was the sweet spot, it runs about 2300 psi. Cleans well and is SUPER FAST. The 4.5 will run about 2500psi. It wasn't worth the loss of flow (minor as it was) to run only a tiny bit more pressure.

If you look at a pw orifice chart, you'll figure our pretty soon that the orifices are calibrated in GPM at 4000psi. So a #5 will give 4000psi at 5 GPM. A #6 will give 4000psi at 6gpm, etc.

So unless you need 4000psi (you don't), you should have the nozzle number at least one step larger than your rated pump flow to drop the pressure down to a more useful 2500-3000psi range.
 
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Old Man Roger

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Ya, not sure why I backed it off in the first place. Probably just wanted to unload the spring, since I knew it was going to be stored for a long while.

Im gonna get some B&S Pump Saver and flush the pump out. Already drained the fuel tank and the bowl.
 
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