Pretty basic Man door question.

[pr3dict]

So this feels like a dumb question that I should know how to resolve but I'm not sure how I want to fix it...

My 36x80" door has a rough opening of 83"H. I'm putting this directly on the concrete slab. With the brick moulding and the frame I still have a gap of about 1"... How should I resolve this? I've seen people put a 1inch strip above the door and then seal that up. but I also imagine people put a floor down first and then put the door on that.

My plan in a year from now was to build a raised wooden floor on that side of the garage for a wood shop (and to level the floor. However I'm not ready to spend the $ on the extra wood needed to do that. I figure I'll do it when lumber prices become reasonable again.

Thoughts?

 

[madhatter]

Interior doors you just use the trim to cover it up, same with exterior doors, but in that case you'll want to make sure its flashed properly on the outside and use insulation to prevent air penetration through the gap. (we are talking about the gap at the top, correct? normally you position the door sitting on the floor, unless you plan to add flooring or something, in which case you space the door off the floor by the amount the flooring will add.

 

[Zmann]

Does the door have an integrated threshold ?
brick mold = this is a brick opening ?

when you do the flooring do you anticipate having to cut the door bottom ?

Picture would be nice ;-)


raise jamb to anticipated new floor height ,,


make a double top jamb ..

get creative with larger top trim

 

[CraigStu]

I'd decide how thick your wooden floor will be and build in a substitute piece for now. I 1x6 piece of oak would do well for now and be hard enough to withstand traffic for about ever.

 

[Dustball]

Install the door high with pressure treated wood under the door threshold and use threshold ramps until you install the eventual wood floor.

 

[ace10]

If you set the door low, and then eventually build up the inside floor, you will be in a miserable position.

$0.02

 

[pr3dict]

Ah pictures are probably the way to go here... See attached.

@Dustball I think thats the way to go. I feel like I should have left the pressure treated bottom plate in instead of cutting it out. Now if I put it back do I just use tapcon screws to keep it down? Also do I put flashing under it or a sill gasket like everywhere else?

 

[Zmann]

heck your not sided or rocked just build the header down and run the flooring into that threshold to avoid a big step and a problem finishing the exterior under the threshold

 

[The Cobbler]

just hang the door and trim will cover . you don't have an issue

 

[ddawg16]

FYI....if possible, I nail the door strike directly to the jack stud.....the shim the hinge side for square.

When you close the door, the jack stud helps absorb the impact. Additionally, it gives the door a bit more strength if someone wants to kick it in.

And....see the gaps between your sheets of plywood? Don't forget to put blocking there

 

[pr3dict]

I was totally not going to block that gap. Was just going to tyvek and side it. Lol I thought I was done with framing and sheathing x_x

Also the trim is already on the door. Unless you are talking about the j channel?

 

[nadogail]

After experimenting with several possible solutions we used a piece of Trex for a threshold plate, it looks good, and has been in constant use for about 8 years.

 

[MikeF2316]

I would also put a spacer underneath the thickness of the proposed floor and install it at the final height.

And yes, you need to seal under and over the spacer.

 

[pr3dict]

So no need to bolt it down? I'll take it lol

 

[mike93lx]

If you set the door low, and then eventually build up the inside floor, you will be in a miserable position.

$0.02

You can just remove it and adjust the position in the rough opening. Not a big deal

 

[ace10]

You can just remove it and adjust the position in the rough opening. Not a big deal

Disagree.
But that's OK.

 

[NUTTSGT]

So no need to bolt it down? I'll take it lol

I would tapcon it down.

 

[mike93lx]

Disagree.
But that's OK.

How so? Installing a door is not a huge production, people do it all the time. I've done it.

What am I missing?

 

[Dustball]

How so? Installing a door is not a huge production, people do it all the time. I've done it.

What am I missing?

Exterior siding having to be reworked to accommodate moving the door up.

 

[The Cobbler]

How so? Installing a door is not a huge production, people do it all the time. I've done it.

What am I missing?

It is easy, but a lot more work to remove & reinstall when the trim, capping, caulking, spray foam etc are all done. makes more sense to figure it out the first time

 

[ace10]

How so? Installing a door is not a huge production, people do it all the time. I've done it.

What am I missing?

How are you going to properly reflash the header with the siding in place?
What's the plan for not destroying the brickmold when you pull the door?

I agree, people install doors all the time. You've done it. I've done it. But this scenario isn't the simple installation of a door. It would be a remove, alter the RO and then reinstall.
Can it be done? Of course, but it's not just pulling some nails or screws.
If the OP knows where his floor is going to end up, then just set it to that height and be done with it. Much easier to ensure proper water control the first time.

I'm not looking to get into a debate.
/signing off

 

[mike93lx]

Exterior siding having to be reworked to accommodate moving the door up.

That seems pretty easy to plan for with trim

 

[pr3dict]

Well you all answered that pretty easily so I have another riddle for you...

What do I do about this 5 inch discrepancy lol.

 

[The Cobbler]

wow!
that's a totally different story...

 

[The Cobbler]

how much higher than grade is the lowest part of the slab?
I'd think about cutting out a section of slab and pouring level, with a step , so the door fits level and bit of a step up or an incline to the main pad.

 

[pr3dict]

how much higher than grade is the lowest part of the slab?
I'd think about cutting out a section of slab and pouring level, with a step , so the door fits level and bit of a step up or an incline to the main pad.

So where the door sits and about a foot out I poured to follow the pitch of the current slab. Technically my permit is to only use the existing slab so if I was to rip out a part and repour I would have to do it after this thing is completed.

The picture I just attached shows how big the ledge would have been if I poured level for that 1 extra foot. I ruled that out because I thought it would have been weird to have such a drop off where the door met the slab. Looking at it now I guess it doesn't matter because no matter what I will have a "ledge" so to speak. That is if I want there to be no gap when I close the door haha.

 

[The Cobbler]

I suggested that so outside looks proper ... street appeal

 

[Buildgoodwin]

Barn door sloped to match! Commercial overhead doors you see in parking garages and such that meet sidewalks or city streets on a slope often have a tapered metal piece on the bottom of them to make the sealing edge match, but as mentioned curb appeal would be a casualty.

 

[yeldogt]

I always install a proper threshold and a pan with those pre-hung doors with AL thresholds --- properly installed the door's threshold should allow any water to drip off the building. The Al type don't extend far enough.

What are you doing under the door? And ... the reason they rot is people place them on the slab...

Also -- unless it's going in a brick building -- I match the trim on the rest of the project

 

[pr3dict]

I added a 2x6 under the door and it was a weeeee bit to high on one side so I shaved the top of the frame off and it fit like a glove. It doesn't close perfectly smooth but it seals up nice when you give it a little push.

One thing I had an issue with was the caulking. I had a $3 gun that was so terrible everytime I squeezed the trigger it would move a 1/4mm. Took like 1000 squeezes to get a tube done. I went and bought a better "heavy duty" one today for when I do the windows and inside the bottom plates. Again not perfect but I think it worked out ok.

 

[pr3dict]

Same problem different opening... My window is 1/2" larger on each side as per the ordering instructions. But now the mounting holes are open to the air and nothing to nail them to...

If I add 1/2" ply to each side to fill the gap will that be substantial enough to nail into? Or what's the alternative

Edit : lol. This killing me. The window is 35.5 x 35.5. The rough opening is 36.5x 37.5. I don't see how that happened Considering I asked the framer to make it for a 36x36 rough opening. Smh

 

[Dustball]

Shim either the top or bottom using a 2x and shim one side using a 1x.

 

[nadogail]

I don't think it is possible to build anything without a large packet of shims.