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Preventative Corrosion Maintenance

ambenz

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Dec 12, 2010
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NW Chicago Suburbs
It's the season for me and my Mustang to evaluate measures taken two years ago to stop any corrosion found on some under carriage components.
I do this because I use my Mustang as a "Showcar" and want to be proactive on keeping it clean and presentable.
Since my Mustang doesn't see salty roads in the winter, it's a great time to check out the entire car for corrosion, defects, and future possible issues.
This 2007 Mustang drives all over the country, it's 50,000 on the odometer proves that.
From driving on the beach on the Padre Islands of Texas to the rain on the Pennsylvania turnpike, to the arid plains and gravel roads of Iowa, my pony sees all weather conditions, three seasons out of the year!

First place I look for corrosion is the entire undercarriage so, jacking up the car is the first task...gosh, I need to get my lift soon!

Inspection time.....

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The driveshaft was bare metal from the factory and rusted, I painted it with Rust X silver 2 years ago...looks like some areas have issues....

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Most of it looks pretty good though....

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some rusting on housing bolts...will get come care....

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....differential cover is starting to look punky.....

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Some road damage showing primer coat....

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...rotor non-contact areas were not painted from the factory..I repaint them every year. The caliper housing was polished with a wire brush and coated with Aluminum wheel polish and cleaner...they are looking pretty good still....

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The brake pad backs were painted grabber orange last year and look dirty, will clean and repaint for aesthetics and judged bonus points.

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The rear wheel wheels were rubber coated sprayed 2 years ago and need some attention....

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Little rust on the black painted rear axle... looking better than expected! That whole axle housing was bare metal from the factory and was really rusty...used a couple wire wheels and rust converter 2 years ago to get it looking rust free.....

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Wheels need cleaning inside....

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To inspect the front wheel wells, I remove the plastic covers and save the plastic ware in baggies....

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Some debree and bugs in lower quarter panels.....

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...those plastic wells did some damage to the paint near the connection points! This will rust if salt is added to the mix....have to fix all the bare metal contact points and figure a way to stop this!!! Every point has bare metal!! ...not good.

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Well, I have several potential corrosion issues to address, most are minor and I am satisfied that I am doing the right things to preserve my pony.
Next up is to start attacking my punch list of all the undercarriage issues I have found today...later on tonight, I post up some results and fixes.
I am headed back out to the heated garage...it's a great way to spend Christmas day, for me!
 
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A_Pmech

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You may be as fanatical about your Mustang as I am about 4th gen Firebirds.

:)
 

Ruger_556

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This 2007 Mustang drives all over the country, it's 50,000 on the odometer proves that.

And here I thought you were saying it had a lot of miles on it :D The tech college bought a 2011 KW last year with over 700,000 miles :bowdown:
 

kd3pc

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Aug 10, 2013
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Northern Neck
Just sold my 2005 with 53K miles....and the rust that came up was in Ford using aluminum and steel in places like the hood....where the hood skin was AL, but the inner panels are steel. Similar was the trunk deck,

but your's sure looks nice and should last a long time.
 

Tawn

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Mar 2, 2011
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310
Location
Maryland
In the marine world we use either Boeshield T-9 which was designed by Boeing for use on aircraft that were be putting into layup. It dries to a waxy film and prevents corrosion.

The other is a product called Corrosion-X, it is also good for preventing corrosion and would be well suited for your application.

Either product can be ordered online or purchased from West Marine or other marine/tackle shop.

http://boeshield.com/

http://www.corrosionx.com/
 
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ambenz

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NW Chicago Suburbs
All great ideas but I didn't want to film up the car with stuff since it is a showcar...per say.
My wifes Mustang had that film protector on it and it was tacky, attracting dirt and looked like ...well...it looked bad.
So I am pretty much against anything that attracts dirt and is not smooth.
That ocean spray IS a concern....hence, the inspection.
I was concerned that the sand was blasting the undercarriage...I was cruising the beach everyday while on vacation there. So far, the inspections done, do not show any major rust issues....though, I am not letting my guard down!

Well, I cleaned the leaves with a hand broom and blew out anything else.

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All clean....

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Cleaned all the bare metal areas to be touched up with a little alcohol to remove any grime...

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...and touched up all the bare spots and allowed to dry....

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I found a spring tag just fell off in my hand.

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So I taped it back on the spring, keeping the original tags in place, for the judges...

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made it look somewhat neat....

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After all the paint was dry from those bare metal touchups, I added some thick vinyl tape, like heavy electrical tape to all the areas where the paint rubbed off from the wheel well liners.....

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....and waxed the whole wheel well area with some wax. Every nook and cranny got a good coat, allowed to haze, then, lightly removed any extras. The wax should help keep the inside areas clean and free from too much dust and moisture collecting in that area.

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....cleaned the plastic wheel well liners and added some top coat vinyl and plastic detailer ...remounting the cover in the well.....

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Next up...addressing the rear wheel wells....going from the top of the underbody down to the bottom of the under carriage....more to come tomarrow...hopefully.
 
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ambenz

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You may be as fanatical about your Mustang as I am about 4th gen Firebirds.

:)
This is my first brand new car in my life, always had preowned, so I suppose being fanatical is a good thing...LOL!!! BTW, I do like Firebirds too!!!!

And here I thought you were saying it had a lot of miles on it :D The tech college bought a 2011 KW last year with over 700,000 miles :bowdown:
WOW...I have a friend that drove his Grabber Mustang to all 50 states in 5 years and only put on 100,000 while driving in Hawaii.
that guy, you know... must of "lived" in his Mustang!!!!

Just sold my 2005 with 53K miles....and the rust that came up was in Ford using aluminum and steel in places like the hood....where the hood skin was AL, but the inner panels are steel. Similar was the trunk deck....
Luckily, I have not had that issue on the convertible or coupe and most of my friends have had issues...maybe since the cars don't see road salt?
 
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Responder

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Nov 1, 2009
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368
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Saskatoon, SK
You are taking all of the right measures to fight off rust. An annual inspection AND the corrective action you are taking will allow that car a long, rust-free life. I hope!

Good luck with the Mustang! By the way, I love the yellow and black!!
 

chops101

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Jul 15, 2013
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554
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S. FL
It is going to be impossible to keep it in "Showcar" condition if you drive it that much...Just saying. That is what daily drivers are for.

My car doesn't leave the garage if there is over 30% chance of rain even.
 
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ambenz

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..... An annual inspection AND the corrective action you are taking will allow that car a long, rust-free life. I hope!

Good luck with the Mustang! By the way, I love the yellow and black!!

Thanks, the color is Grabber Orange with black stripes...everyone calls it yellow...in the bright lite is is almost yellow and at dusk you can really see it's orange.
It is going to be impossible to keep it in "Showcar" condition if you drive it that much...Just saying...

Well, I suppose if you want your ride to be a contours grade showcar, I see your point.
However, mine is not a daily driver but a vacation and weekend warrior.
I usually show my car in a occasionally driven class.
I am not a conservator or curator for my Mustang, I bought it to enjoy "on the road."
I am in the mindset, if you have it, enjoy it and drive it.
I do tend to not drive it in the rain unless it can't be avoided.
Usually when on vacation, the car cover comes with me and I use a noise and mirror bra to keep the road rocks from chipping the paint...any chips I do get are touched up and the car is waxed frequently.
For those novices in the showcar scene, there are several classes for showing your car when going to a sanctioned event like the Mustang Club of America car shows.
The actually have a daily driver class where the judges take that into consideration.
Usually, carshows are all about cleanlyness.
The smoothness of your paint from a good wax or polymer will make that area easier to keep clean and maintain.
Every painted surface on my Mustang has a wax or polymer coating on it...everywhere!
It stays pretty clean or is very easy to clean when it gets dirty.
Well yesterday I got the brake caliper off the rotors and the painted pads cleaned up and ready for painting.
The pads look about half used up...now the decision...to paint the existing pads or buy new ones?
I am leaning to buying new ones and keep the original pads as a backup.
Then, I'll paint the backs of the new pads and have new brakes too!
The paint I have is made for heat...will post up some pics of my progress soon.....
 
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ambenz

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Well, back to my original question, since I have to take apart the calipers to repaint the backs of the brake pads, should I just install new brakepads?

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Well when I went to the parts store and found the pads were $20 each for a pair of fronts and a pair of backs, I pulled the trigger and got a new set! I will keep the 50% used stock ones as original parts.

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...and I got a couple of nice surprises inside the box!

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Free "Gold" upgrade is always good...I suppose...and the second surprise was the come with "paintable" and removable pad covers...the stock ones were missing.
So, I can pre-paint those covers!

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After wire wheel brushing all the caliper parts with a drill and using some metal polish to keep them that way for another year, I installed the pad covers on the pads, and put everything back together.

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The painted pads add a "touch" of color to a part the wheel...a custom touch.
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Well the driver side is close to done, working on doing the same for the other side.
Then a few paint touch ups to the underside of the chassis along with a full underbody wax/ polymer protection...more on that during the New Years holiday.
 
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ambenz

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Well now that the undercarriage is all taken care of, it was time to clean, detail, and inspect the interior and the top bonnet.
The started on the top this time and found it dusty.
I started by semi retracting the top....

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As the top descends, I noticed there are several elastic straps, and 2 of these straps have noticeable wear! Eeeeek!

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might be getting "pinched in the mechanism?! Look like the case.
The top does get a workout.
Same issue on both sides....

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So, I went out to a fabric store and found some elastic in black, Hobby Lobby has this!

So I got to work stitching new elastic over the damaged area.
Keeping the old elastic so I don't have to remove the top to replace the whole piece.

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Took me about an hour to hand stitch both new elastic bands to the old one.
As you can see in the picture below, as the top retracts, the elastic is there to grab and pull the excess away from the sides of the opening of the bucket is retracts into.

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I also found my top liner had jumped halfway off it's U channel fastener along the inside between the top and liner.
I was able to snap the U channel into its mount but was unsure why it popped out in the first place.
So I added a little automotive glue goop, on the end of a long rod, close to where the U channel ends...the area was pretty inaccessable.
I let it dry before I try to extend the top....next up finish cleaning and inspect the interior finish.
 

Iggi

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ambenz

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Dec 12, 2010
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I do love Aerospace 303 protectorant...to date and 7 years old, my tops exterior is like the day I bought it...that stuff is great!

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I haven't tried the Amsoil..been using Liquid Wrench dry lube...it doesn't attract dust and dirt...James, the clear nail polish is also a pretty good idea too!
Thanks for posting your ideas for preventing corrosion....and for the kudos James!
 

rmalkow2

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Brighton, MI
Just found this thread and welcome all the great ideas and tips for rust prevention and protective treatments. In 2015 I bought the second Mustang in life, a 1999 GT convertible. While the PO did an exceptional job of keeping it clean, maintained and pampered over its life it is definitely a driver and not a show car. But I'd still like to help it look its best and the top is one area that will need attention. After reading up on the 303 product I'm definitely trying that out and some of the other great ideas here. Keep posting as you find new ways to protect your pony.
 

AndrewDouglasBird

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Oct 15, 2013
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Vancouver, WA
I use iron oxide as a protective coating. Self coating and everything!

But seriously, you guys that live where they salt the roads have it rough. They just lay down fine gravel here, only when it snows, and spray deicer on the roads.
 

d.mcfarland

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The salt eats cars at alarming rates. 10 year old cars can expect to need rust addressed unless the owner isn't planning on keeping it.
 

rmalkow2

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Living in the Detroit area and driving means salty roads all winter. Heck we even have salt mines under the city. So for my daily driver is means lots of regular trips to the car wash to help keep it somewhat washed off. It is not perfect but can help prolong the inevitable.
 

LS6 Tommy

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50k in only 9 years? Paaah. That's almost a daily driver. Madge has 20k on the odometer and she's a 1980...:lol_hitti

Your car is VERY well loved. Nice work! :thumbup:

Tommy
 
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