Have any of you guys just used primer as your final coat? Im getting ready to paint the inside of 2 garages with fresh drywall... One 30x40 and one 24x24.. Its white primer and Im not looking for anything special in the garage's, just something to hide the drywall...
Primer as final coat
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38Chevy454
Well-known member
I used two coats of Kilz on my OSB walls and drywall ceiling. Kilz is kind of a primer. Buying 5 gal buckets of the Kilz was as cheap as any other paint. Seems to clean up fine for anyting spilled or dirt on it.
Falcon67
Well-known member
My plan for my OSB covering is white primer, probably latex. I've looked at a couple of latex primed OSB walls and noted no real issues. Guy in the car club is a pro painter and said I should not have any special issues with lifting from using latex. I'll price Kiltz too but from using it during remodling at our old house, a quality latex primer from Lowes was cheaper by the gallon and covered better. So - YMMV as they say.
I bought 10 gallons (Two 5 gallons buckets) of Valspar High Quality Primer for Drywall covering from lowes, I think it was like 50-60 bucks, from the reviews it looked pretty good..
Falcon67 I chatted with you a few years ago on the fordmuscle site.. I want to say you might of bought parts off of me or I did from you lol... I have a 64 Falcon Hardtop..
Falcon67 I chatted with you a few years ago on the fordmuscle site.. I want to say you might of bought parts off of me or I did from you lol... I have a 64 Falcon Hardtop..
mercman1951
Well-known member
No reason you can't do that, but keep in mind a primer coat will be like a giant reverse-chalkboard. Every little thing that touches it will leave a mark of some sort. Better off going with a semigloss or gloss topcoat for stain/mark resistence.
chadman
Well-known member
You'll be much happier if you top coat it with semigloss. The primer alone will not protect the drywall from the occasional spray of water which will cause the paper to bubble and flake off. Been there before. Primer is of high porosity and therefore very hard to clean. Semigloss will leave a much smoother and tighter surface to protect the drywall from water while also making for easy cleaning.
Typically primer is made to 'stick' to the substrate surface and let the topcoat 'stick' to it.
Different material and different uses than a topcoat.
YMMV.
Just like you wouldn't (well, you really-really shouldn't
) typically use gear oil in an engine, even though the engine may have gears inside of it. And you usually don't use motor oil inside of a differential. And you don't use detergent motor oil inside of a splash-lubricated air compressor. Even though all those lubes are all "oil".
And you (usually) don't use a claw hammer to install drywall screws, or a phillps-head screwdriver to install framing nails.
Etc, etc, etc.
Use the right tool or product for the job/task at hand.
Primer is made to "prime". Top coat is made to be the top coat.
YMMV.
Different material and different uses than a topcoat.
YMMV.
Just like you wouldn't (well, you really-really shouldn't
) typically use gear oil in an engine, even though the engine may have gears inside of it. And you usually don't use motor oil inside of a differential. And you don't use detergent motor oil inside of a splash-lubricated air compressor. Even though all those lubes are all "oil".And you (usually) don't use a claw hammer to install drywall screws, or a phillps-head screwdriver to install framing nails.
Etc, etc, etc.
Use the right tool or product for the job/task at hand.
Primer is made to "prime". Top coat is made to be the top coat.
YMMV.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Could be!
Valspar was the stuff we used - good primer. My deal is that if I have to primer it twice, I'm done. That's about all the rolling I can stand. Not to mention that money for top coats would have to wait. Where my machines throw stuff, there will be some kind of deflector or protector on that wall anyway.
I hate painting because I did it for years in high school to make money. Industrial and institutional. I got real sick of paint. Especially hospital puke green.
Zeke
Well-known member
Kilz is a lousy paint product, but it will have some "side sheen." That means it seals as well as primes and that seal is on top as well as against the surface. No, it's not paint, but it's not strictly dead flat primer either. It will scrub up clean to a degree.
I'm not starting a flame war here, but people who buy Kilz are simply uninformed. I've been a painting general contractor for over 40 years. I can get better products for less money all day long.
Just go to your local pro paint supply and ask.
I'm not starting a flame war here, but people who buy Kilz are simply uninformed. I've been a painting general contractor for over 40 years. I can get better products for less money all day long.
Just go to your local pro paint supply and ask.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Zeke, as a long time painting G.C., what product(s) would you suggest the O.P. use in this instance? I've had good results with Kilz, but am always open to a better product/method for an application. Your advice would be appreciated by all, I'm sure.
rlitman
Well-known member
I think Kilz has it's uses (I like it as a primer on unfinished wood trim to be painted over with latex in the next coat; I also use it to prime wood projects made in my unheated garage in the winter, because it can be applied at temperatures as low as 20F; don't try that with latex), but not for drywall. Drywall should be primed with a latex primer.
If you really must do everything in one paint, then just get one of the latex paints that says it's ok for painting on drywall without priming, or one of the ones that says it's a primer and paint all in one.
Zeke
Well-known member
Kilz was originally formulated as as substitute for white pigmented shellac used to seal smoke damage and water stains. It can also be used on knots. To be an excellent sealer, which it is, it needs to be "tight" and not breathe as has been stated by others about latex family of paints. Hence, the shine.
Well, that shine comes at the expense of adhesion. Over OSB this should not be a problem, but as a primer over things smooth in nature, it will peel. Especially if exposed to the elements.
Kilz went on as a brand to create a suite of products to ride the wave of the name. Another to do this exact same thing is Zinser 123, a very similar line of product. To me, this is like buying a STP oil filter because you recognize the brand name.
But the real point is that these nationally distributed products are not any better than what you can buy regionally made and distributed say like through Sherwin Williams. Now, SW may not be prone to sell you a couple of gallons at a good price point whereas the Home Depot sells to everyone the same. However, the HD can be more expensive. People don't get that.
You'd be surprised at what kind of discount you can get at a pro paint supply if you discuss your needs. Kilz is not expensive to make, but it sells for a handsome price.
2 calls placed this morning, one to SW and one to an independent shows SW water borne sealer at $17 and change, same for Glidden's Gripper. Oil base Kilz Complete is 22 and change. The independent store told me they do not stock water Kilz because it's a lousy product and they won't stand behind it.
I think I said that above.
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
Exactly. I just did the same and the top coat covers easily, and looks a LOT better. Plus it will clean up way easier.
Jim
rlitman
Well-known member
I didn't know that. I've used shellac based primers in indoor situations where nothing else would stick. Another product that has it's uses (limited though they may be). I still haven't tried out the epoxy solids primers, but have heard good things. I've used Kilz on pine knots, and it sticks well, but I've still seen resin rise through it and leave a stain on the surface.
I believe that the oil based Kilz is higher in price nowadays because of the hazmat charges added to transport of all oil based paints lately. That's why all oil based paints are getting ridiculous (and why the gallons of solvents and kerosene and the like are so exorbitantly priced at the box stores too).
2 coats of oil based kilz on my upper walls and ceilings.
38Chevy454
Well-known member
Oil based Kilz is what I used. It was around $55 for 5 gal bucket. I put it on with a roller. Yes it took some time, even with a 18-inch wide roller.
Falcon67
Well-known member
>Just go to your local pro paint supply and ask.
I "partnered" with my friend in the car club and discovered that Kelly-Moore carries some pretty decent paint. We used it when we painted the new re-po house and were pleased with the results. We only had one room where we had to use two coats (the room that was painted semi-gloss royal blue, walls and ceiling, with lime green trim).
I "partnered" with my friend in the car club and discovered that Kelly-Moore carries some pretty decent paint. We used it when we painted the new re-po house and were pleased with the results. We only had one room where we had to use two coats (the room that was painted semi-gloss royal blue, walls and ceiling, with lime green trim).
GirlnAgarage
Well-known member
Ahh, this is very familiar. If you go to my garage build, the before shots are Kilz primer only. When we moved in the drywall was in bad shape, stained, they kept a herd of cats in the garage - it was a wreck. To get some type of cleaned up coat I used Kilz.
That was the starting point for my garage. The finish is not bright. It will not wear well. It does not look as good as a layer of top coat paint.
When I painted my walls for my reorganization I used a latex paint. The difference is very noticeable. Use a topcoat.
Use
That was the starting point for my garage. The finish is not bright. It will not wear well. It does not look as good as a layer of top coat paint.
When I painted my walls for my reorganization I used a latex paint. The difference is very noticeable. Use a topcoat.
Use
Falcon67
Well-known member
We've used that with mixed results on a porous surface. I got 1856 sq/ft to paint, I feel your pain.
JimVonBaden
Well-known member
On my new garage it took two coats of primer and two coats of semi-gloss to cover my walls and ceiling adequately. Another coat of paint would be better.
Jim
chadman
Well-known member
Those of you that hate painting to the point you are considering not finishing the job completely, (primer only) have you cosidered renting an airless paint sprayer? This is how I painted my garage. Once you mask everything off (which is time consuming) everthing goes very fast. It literally took me about 20 minutes per coat to do my 1000 sq. ft. garage once everything was masked.
Zeke
Well-known member
There are one coat drywall paints. They are used in production painting in tracts and condos. They are specialized emulsions, so maybe not available at the Home Deceit.
semi-rhetorical question:
Why do they make paint and primer?
Because they are different products that serve different needs, that's why.
New drywall? Use drywall primer. It's less expensive than a top coat paint, and does the job of a "primer". The drywall will still probably ****-up two coats of primer (bare drywall 'paper' just ***** up the paint or primer like a sponge) . Then you can get on to the painting part.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/resources/surface-preparation/primers/
Why do they make paint and primer?
Because they are different products that serve different needs, that's why.
New drywall? Use drywall primer. It's less expensive than a top coat paint, and does the job of a "primer". The drywall will still probably ****-up two coats of primer (bare drywall 'paper' just ***** up the paint or primer like a sponge) . Then you can get on to the painting part.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/resources/surface-preparation/primers/
Zeke
Well-known member
You're right about very affordable drywall primer. It's called PVA. It properly seals the mudded areas and the drywall surface paper and makes it easy to apply most any paint. When I was on the tracts, we used that in kitchens and baths before enamel. It's kinda thin, so it won't do for a final coat as you could do with some primers.
camarotoolman
Banned
Too bad you don't live here, you can get all the paint you can use for free at the dump. I haven't bought paint in years!
Zeke
Well-known member
Good idea. I bet Habitat for Humanity has some too. A friend of mine used to own a paint supply store. Whenever he messed up a tint, he poured it in a drum. Said it was always kind of a drab green no matter what went in.