Pro quality (functionality) battery Drill?

[dr_clyde]

The limitation my current drill has with the 1/2” chuck is that 1/16” is the smallest size that will fit. The 1/2” drill in steel story is I can’t push hard enough to do that. The thing that happens, I’m sure to all of us is that with an all purpose tool like these drills get used for unpredictable things. I use it with chucking reamers, taps and to drill small holes. Running a little slow is likely good for tool life but with really small drills, particularly in aluminum I’ll take all the rpms I can to avoid breaking the drill and to not leave too bad a burr on the exit.

Just get a pin vise for the little drills.

 

[theoldwizard1]

My Metabo will do 0-500 rpm in first gear, up to 2050 rpm in second, and up to 3800 rpm in third!

First time I have ever heard of any drill having # gear ratios (not just electronic speed limiters). What is the model number ?

 

[theoldwizard1]

He always recommends that M12 whenever anyone so much as mentions drills.

More correctly, I always recommend 2 drills ! A 3/8" and a triple gear reduction 1/2" !

 

[dr_clyde]

First time I have ever heard of any drill having # gear ratios (not just electronic speed limiters). What is the model number ?

It’s a Metabo bs 18 ltx-3 bl qi

I don’t understand fully what you mean though, almost all pro grade drills have at least a 2 speed gear box. That’s been standard for like, 30 years.

Only the cheap cheesy drills have electronic speed control as the only method of regulating torque. I had a HF drill and a cheap black and decker that had that, they sucked wang.

 

[Git]

First time I have ever heard of any drill having # gear ratios (not just electronic speed limiters). What is the model number ?

Specs on the Fein:

4-speed all-metal gearbox

400
800
1,950
3,850 rpm

I am certainly not a 'drill expert', but this Fein Drill is definitely a step up from any other drill I have ever owned

 

[NC Rick]

Hi folks, I’m checking back in. I made the decision to go with the Makita XFD07 Drill motor. I can’t try them all and the battery platform won’t out as the new batteries work on my old Makita Drill as well. I wanted to put in a vote for long term battery compatibility and I really have been happy with the longevity of my older Makita tools.

I have been using this guy for a while but only this past week had and real demanding drilling to get any feel for the chucks holding ability. I drilled several clearance holes for 3/8” bolts in 3/16 steel plate on a fabrication which I couldn’t get into the drill press. I drilled without predrills, just center punched, ground the drill sharp and pushed for all I could muster. I got nice chips and managed to get the breakthroughs without too bad of a catch, avoiding injury to me. At the 125 Nm torque rating, it has plenty enough power for me and enough to hurt if there is an unexpected grab situation.

Happy with the chuck! It seems a good one, smooth and grippy with all steel construction. Power is more than I need, that’s good. Max rpm is 2100rpm, which I would like more but I used the low range on the bigger drills anyhow. I was able to grip down to a #53 Drill well and the 54 was “funny” feeling... I have drilled 1/2” holes in thinner metal with out trouble.

To date I am happy,

Criticisms I have are that the “transformers”look is ugly and the drill, while reasonably short is a little bulky. The 5ah batteries are way too big for my needs. I’ll get another tool kit of some sort with the 2 or 3 ah batteries.

This drill motor was a lot less money than a high-end Hilti and the battery commonality is good.

I also want to change the Chuck on the old Drill since the problem is that it’s wore out. I can’t get it off without feeling like I’m going to wreck the gearbox.

Thanks for all the great input, I apreciate it all.

 

[Rabid Badger]

I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your new Makita. It will serve you well.

On your old drill, you might try opening the housing and tightening the screws that hold the transmission together from the back. Sometimes they loosen up and allow enough play in the gearbox that it's difficult to break the chuck loose.

 

[NC Rick]

The guys in the shop have been using the old Makita without the locking screw, if they can’t bust it loose no one can ;-)

 

[MattT]

The guys in the shop have been using the old Makita without the locking screw, if they can’t bust it loose no one can ;-)

Stubborn ones I chuck up a 1/2" drive 1/2" hex socket driver then bump it off with a 1/2" impact. Haven't killed a gearbox or spindle brake yet....................

 

[NC Rick]

I’ll try that! If it fails I’ll know what to buy to get smaller batteries! Since it is still functioning, I have been hesitant to use any real conviction.

 

[NC Rick]

Stubborn ones I chuck up a 1/2" drive 1/2" hex socket driver then bump it off with a 1/2" impact. Haven't killed a gearbox or spindle brake yet....................

I got around to it this morning. The big impact driver thing worked like a charm! It came off with little force compared to the hammer and wrench suggestions I had read. Thank you for the outstanding tip!