Pro tips needed: Broken fastener in a tight spot

[JorWood]

Was doing a timing belt on a 94 Accord today and managed to snap off one of the bolts that holds down the water pump. Got about 2-3mm of the old bolt sticking out past the block which isn't much to work with on account of the bolt only having a 10mm head to start out with. I have about 4-5" between the block and the wheel well, definitely no room for my big *** drill. Current hope is to find small enough locking pliers to grip it and turn it in that tiny space... Tried to cut a slit in it with a 2" angle grinder but I couldn't hold it still enough. Just shaved a little precious material off instead. Any wisdom out there for a tight spot like mine?

Jorwood

 

[SlappyWhite]

If you have the gear, weld (MIG/GMAW, or FCAW) a nut to the end of the broken bolt. More than enough space.

It should come right out after that.

 

[RedneckWelder]

Weld a nut on it

If the bolt broke upon removal because it's siezed due to corrosion you typically are only going to piss yourself off with drilling and extractors.

If it broke because you overtightened it then vise grips, cutting a slot in it, extractors, etc have a much higher chance of success



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[texasranger]

+1 for welding a nut on it. The heat from welding helps out.

 

[tlevan03]

I am for welding a nut, but just a suggestion; I have found that welding a washer on to the broken stud first really helps by giving a little more surface for the nut to be welded on

 

[Firstram]

I am for welding a nut, but just a suggestion; I have found that welding a washer on to the broken stud first really helps by giving a little more surface for the nut to be welded on

Filed for future use, thanks.

 

[bad_idea]

Weld a nut on. If you can't, find someone who can. It's a 5 minute job with the tools. If you put up your location, perhaps someone on the forum can help you out.

When welding a nut on, I find one that fits over the stud and fill the nut with weld. Start your puddle in the dead center to make sure you get good penetration into the stud. Another option I have had good luck with is welding a bolt to the end of the stud, works better on larger studs.

 

[zmotorsports]

Another vote to welding a nut on it.

When I don't have as much protruding out as I would like, I will put the nut in the drill press vise and chamfer/countersink it a bit so I can ensure to get very good penetration into the stud, then as working up and outward towards the top of the nut let the molten pool envelope more of the nut but without going to the outside flats.

I have found even that this heat/cool cycle of welding is many times just enough to break the bond of corrosion and the broken fastener will come right out.

 

[MoonRise]

+7 to weld a nut onto the stub.

The welding heat helps loosen the frozen threads and the hex nut lets you get a wrench on it to turn it.

It may take more than one weld attempt. Persist until you get the piece out.

 

[JorWood]

Well I bought the tiniest little locking pliers but I didn't have enough of the bolt to get those junky little things to bite.. Any proficient welders in or around Redding CA?

 

[jayoldschool]

The best part about these fixes is that you can be the worst welder. Just stick a washer to it, then crank it up and melt that nut on there good. It will back right out. Did snapped exhaust bolts on a V8 like that a couple weeks ago.

 

[TheLurker]

I snapped a bolt from a coolant hose point inside the V of my V4 motorcycle engine last year. After vice grips and welding a nut onto it didn't work, I was able to drill it out in the tight quarters using a 90 drill adapter. If you can't get a nut welded onto it, it might work for you.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Dew...MI9_326d6q1gIViB6GCh1GaQ_DEAQYASABEgIayPD_BwE

 

[IndyGarage]

Well I bought the tiniest little locking pliers but I didn't have enough of the bolt to get those junky little things to bite.. Any proficient welders in or around Redding CA?

Like others said, you don't need a proficient welder - anybody with the cheapest Mig welder can do it - if you can get a gun to it. Do you have any friends who do major car restoration or repair? Somebody nearby will have a mig welder - if not, this is the perfect time to buy one.

 

[JorWood]

I snapped a bolt from a coolant hose point inside the V of my V4 motorcycle engine last year. After vice grips and welding a nut onto it didn't work, I was able to drill it out in the tight quarters using a 90 drill adapter. If you can't get a nut welded onto it, it might work for you.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Dew...MI9_326d6q1gIViB6GCh1GaQ_DEAQYASABEgIayPD_BwE

Thank you so much for this. Easiest money I ever spent. Got it out with a poorly placed 3/16 bit and the tiniest extractor.

 

[SteveH-CO]

Got it out with a poorly placed 3/16 bit and the tiniest extractor.

I'm snickering because I, too, have never drilled an accurate hole for a bolt extractor. Good job!

 

[Slednut]

If it was a steel bolt in aluminum you could have tried this trick.

Takes a day and a half to work though.

 

[TheLurker]

Thank you so much for this. Easiest money I ever spent. Got it out with a poorly placed 3/16 bit and the tiniest extractor.

Awesome!

 

[VR6ix]

If it was a steel bolt in aluminum you could have tried this trick.

Takes a day and a half to work though.

Another utuber from Canuckistan has this method:

Build-up enough weld on the end of the snapped bolt, then use your least-favourite set of jumper cables and a good battery to nuke the broken bolt and free the seized threads.