Problem with crimp connectors

[ebarker9]

I've been adding an auxiliary fuse panel to my wife's truck and picked up ratcheting crimper, insulated crimps, and 16AWG wire to run into the interior. Links:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5W3A2O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NV0BNM/

So far I've had zero luck making a solid crimp with this setup. I can easily pull the wire out of the connector, even after using the tightest setting on the crimp tool. It's also tearing up the heat shrink on the connector. Feel like I missing something obvious, but otherwise seems like this combination isn't playing nicely together. Thoughts?

 

[LXCam]

In the QnA section the dude says they're adjustable. Have you tried that , if they really are? The witness marks indicate the forming die isn't remotely doing its job and/or the insulation is to thick or rigid to allow it too. At first I thought maybe you had it the wrong way but after zooming in on the terminal that doesn't look to be the case. Going past a possible adjustment I'd say they're just garbage and aren't compatible with those terminals. Have you tried them on an unisulated one just to see if it forms it correctly?

 

[ebarker9]

In the QnA section the dude says they're adjustable. Have you tried that , if they really are? The witness marks don't indicate the forming die isn't remotely doing its job. At first I thought maybe you had it the wrong way but after zooming in on the terminal that doesn't look to be the case. Going past a possible adjustment I'd say they're just garbage and aren't compatible with those terminals. Have you tried them on an unisulated one just to see if it forms it correctly?

Yeah I have them wound in all the way to the "max crimp" setting. I have another set of terminals from a different company showing up tomorrow so I'll see if those do any better. I can live with buying a better tool, just trying to determine if that's actually the issue before spending more money.

 

[Carguy99]

Those seem to be for insulationted terminals.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

When I looked at the link to the connectors, the spade terminal connectors didn't look to have the same size waist as the but connectors. Do you have the same problem trying a scrap wire with a **** connector?

 

[Katodog]

I use the Titan crimper at work sometimes, it's not the best for the type of connectors you're using. You're better off with something like these. I use Dorman and Crescent brand and they work pretty much perfectly every time.

 

[BillK]

Looks like you have the wrong tool or die for that connector. I probably have ten different crimp tools in my box. I would probably use a "regular" (not ratcheting) type crimp tool for that connector.

 

[ebarker9]

I use the Titan crimper at work sometimes, it's not the best for the type of connectors you're using. You're better off with something like these. I use Dorman and Crescent brand and they work pretty much perfectly every time.

Thanks, seems like a lot of people suggesting that the combination is no good. I was trying to order parts that would be a no brainer to get right...oops.

What type of connectors would those work with? I do have a set of manual crimping pliers like the ones that you linked to so I guess I can give that a shot.

 

[BillK]

Seems to me that the ratcheting type crimpers are very specific to certain types of connectors. If you dont have the exact connector the die is made for they dont work worth a darn. I have a set for use with coax cable connectors and Anderson Power Pole connectors but that is all they will work on. Everything else I use one of my many sets of regular crimping tools. I think your connectors are fine, just use a normal pair of crimping pliers. If you dont do a lot of this it takes a while to get used to what tool will work right with certain connectors.

 

[67carl]

When I wired the gauges in my car I used crimp connectors along with marine grade heat shrink tubing. The marine grade has an adhesive inside, so when you shrink it it seals and lockes everything together. It will not come apart.

 

[ebarker9]

When I wired the gauges in my car I used crimp connectors along with marine grade heat shrink tubing. The marine grade has an adhesive inside, so when you shrink it it seals and lockes everything together. It will not come apart.

Nice job, very clean.

So looking into this a bit more it looks like I ordered the wrong crimp tool. I didn't realize that there is a difference between insulated and heat shrink terminals. Looking at some other crimp tools that offer both options and there's a clear difference in the die shape:

https://www.amazon.com/Crimping-Tool-Heat-Shrink-Connectors/dp/B07GFXHH91/

I'll either order the Titan set with multiple dies or just use the regular pliers for these.

 

[torqueman2002]

Astro 9477 Professional Quick Interchangeable Ratchet Crimping Tool Set, 7-Piece at Amazon.
Don't skimp on your crimper. LOL

 

[walta]

I like a Vaco 1900 crimper for that terminal.
This crimper puts a dent in the bottom of the terminal just make sure the dent is not in the seam of the connector.

 

[ebarker9]

Astro 9477 Professional Quick Interchangeable Ratchet Crimping Tool Set, 7-Piece at Amazon.
Don't skimp on your crimper. LOL

Those looks sweet.

 

[rlitman]

I like a Vaco 1900 crimper for that terminal.

This crimper puts a dent in the bottom of the terminal just make sure the dent is not in the seam of the connector.

Indent crimps are not appropriate for insulated connectors.

 

[jkeyser14]

You are using a crimping die for insulated terminals. Unfortunately, the terminal you have is a heatshrink terminal, not an insulating terminal. The heat shrink is a lot thinner than the plastic on insulated terminals. So you need to use dies for an uninsulated terminal on these heat shrink ones, or get new terminals.

 

[Bretny]

You guys are making this way harder than it has to be. I have been useing a set of dykes to crimp insulated and sealable insulated terminals for years. It works well and hardly ever get a bad crimp.

 

[jkeyser14]

You guys are making this way harder than it has to be. I have been useing a set of dykes to crimp insulated and sealable insulated terminals for years. It works well and hardly ever get a bad crimp.

That's fine for projects in your garage where you don't care about reliability, but a $20 calibrated crimper that you know how to use will give you long lasting, trouble free crimps that stand up to abusive environments.

 

[ttpete]

I quit using plastic insulated terminals a long time ago. My favorite is an uninsulated open barrel terminal crimped with a ratcheting crimp tool with the proper dies that is then insulated with shrink tubing. Subjected to a pull test, the wire will break before the crimp fails.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Skip the ratcheting tool and get one of these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-9-1-2-in-Crimping-Tool-1005SEN/100352095

I have two pairs and never had an issue with crimps not setting and no damaged heat shrink material. I've crimped and sealed thousands of those connectors with just the crimper and a butane torch. Never had a single issue.

 

[rlitman]

Skip the ratcheting tool and get one of these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-9-1-2-in-Crimping-Tool-1005SEN/100352095

I have two pairs and never had an issue with crimps not setting and no damaged heat shrink material. I've crimped and sealed thousands of those connectors with just the crimper and a butane torch. Never had a single issue.

Those are my favorite choice for insulated crimps.

 

[tom-ky]

Those are my favorite choice for insulated crimps.

Been using these for years.

 

[bowtieboy77]

Channellock makes about the best set of insulated and non insulated crimper pliers/ cutters that I have used.

 

[bwringer]

You are using a crimping die for insulated terminals. Unfortunately, the terminal you have is a heatshrink terminal, not an insulating terminal. The heat shrink is a lot thinner than the plastic on insulated terminals. So you need to use dies for an uninsulated terminal on these heat shrink ones, or get new terminals.

Yep. You're using the wrong die. There's a die set specifically for heat shrink terminals. A die for plain insulated terminals will give the poor results you're seeing.

I usually use a quality brand of insulated terminals (NOT harbor freight) along with glue-lined heat shrink tubing and a good Paladin ratcheting crimper. This makes absolutely rock-solid connections every time.

A high-quality ratcheting crimper is not all that expensive. However, the one at Harbor Freight is not very good; with some examples you can adjust them to make decent crimps, but some are hopeless. Not very good QC.

 

[rlitman]

...I usually use a quality brand of insulated terminals (NOT harbor freight) along with glue-lined heat shrink tubing and a good Paladin ratcheting crimper. This makes absolutely rock-solid connections every time...

The terminals I've seen at HF are ****. They do sell an assortment of "Marine" grade heat shrink that is adhesive lined that's actually quite good.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I've had zero luck making a solid crimp with this setup...

Although you chose the cheapest ratcheting crimper I've ever seen, the tool isn't the problem--the crappy connectors are. Look closely and you will see how the barrel is not closed, but open. There is no possible way to get those to crimp tightly. Throw them away and replace with closed barrels.

 

[bwringer]

The terminals I've seen at HF are ****. They do sell an assortment of "Marine" grade heat shrink that is adhesive lined that's actually quite good.

Agreed.

Great stuff next to garbage is kinda Harbor Freight's thing, isn't it?

 

[theoldwizard1]

I do not like insulated connectors. They just don't look "right" when they are finished with the wide bell shaped open mouth. The one that use shrinkable insulation are acceptable. The best solution are non-insulated with "marine'/dual wall heat shrink.

Personally, I like the TE Solistrand brand. You won't find these in many stores. You will have to order them through a mail order place like DigiKey or Mouser. Solistrand are made from heavy copper and then plated with solder.

They can easily be crimped with inexpensive multi-tool crimpers, like the Vaco 1900.

My biggest complaint is there is no Solistrand FASTON male of female terminals ! All of the FASTON terminal seem to be very thin/flimsy. Many have those double "flags" on the crimp end that I just can not seem get crimped properly. Sad !

 

[ransil]

I always use a dimple crimp tool with the insulated terminals, go up one size in cavity if needed, dimple goes on the oposite side if the seam. Tool you list is suppose to be correct but it *****.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[ransil]

Adding splices is just looking for issues down the road, they will work initially but with vibration, corrosion and time they will fail.

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[AntonLargiader]

Then you DEFINITELY aren't using the right dies. Those are F-crimp AKA open barrel. They rock - every commercial automotive harness I have ever seen uses these - but you just need the right tool.

...My biggest complaint is there is no Solistrand FASTON male of female terminals ! All of the FASTON terminal seem to be very thin/flimsy. Many have those double "flags" on the crimp end that I just can not seem get crimped properly. Sad !

 

[alfredeneuman]

I've used lots and lots of them.
My favorite by far are T&B Stakons, followed distantly by Panduit.
I use an ancient T&B - WT111M (found used at a swap meet), the one on which the Klein that Crazyjake8493 linked to is based, to crimp them. (It has performed pretty close to flawlessly for the 40 yrs. while I've had it)

 

[Ray-CA]

I use these;https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3L4N2J/?tag=atomicindus08-20

or something similar.

Ray

 

[theoldwizard1]

Then you DEFINITELY aren't using the right dies. Those are F-crimp AKA open barrel. They rock - every commercial automotive harness I have ever seen uses these - but you just need the right tool.

I won't argue ! (I never heard that called an "open barrel F-crimp". Obviously popular on high volume automated crimp machines, but there does not appear to be any standardization.)

I have a couple of open barrel style crimpers left over from my computer tech days (I built hundreds of 9 and 25 pin D connectors for RS-232 cabling). Some cost over $100 (from AMP, now TE Connectivity) and have interchangeable dies. I really don't want to buy yet another set of crimpers.

Besides, the Solistrand connectors are HEAVY DUTY, solder plated copper, just no Faston !

 

[slow]

There are no standards that i have found to most of the open barrel crimp tools. I've got thousands of dollars of Rennsteig crimp tools and dies for just a handful of Metripack 150/280 and Delphi GT 150 crimp terminals.

 

[ishiboo]

Then you DEFINITELY aren't using the right dies. Those are F-crimp AKA open barrel. They rock - every commercial automotive harness I have ever seen uses these - but you just need the right tool.

Definitely. I have a cheap crimper for Weatherpack connectors and it does those open barrels just fine. Just need the right tool for it. Once it's crimped they are ROCK solid.

 

[theoldwizard1]

There are no standards that i have found to most of the open barrel crimp tools. I've got thousands of dollars of Rennsteig crimp tools and dies for just a handful of Metripack 150/280 and Delphi GT 150 crimp terminals.

Just need the right tool for it. Once it's crimped they are ROCK solid.

... And this is why I like TE Solistrand. Cheap crimpers work great.

 

[ishiboo]

I use the Channellock 909 for closed barrel connectors like .25" quick connects. It makes a reliable crimp in all the ones I've thrown at it. I have ratcheting crimpers and just like OP they work great on some but won't even crimp others.