Problem with starting a nut inside the frame rail

[JB740i]

On my FJ40, I had to remove an engine mount the PO made so I could attach a bracket for a power steering pump on my chevy 283.

One of the 2 bolts holding the mount to the frame I had to cut off because I couldn't get the nut off from inside the frame. The bolt head had been trimmed because he'd made the hole too close to the bar going to the engine mount.

In other words, how would he have gotten a nut started on a bolt that he couldn't turn when there is not enough room to get your fingers in there?

Don't think the air ratchet would fit.

 

[Merkava_4]

Sometimes I'll start a nut on a bolt by holding one side of the nut with a telescoping magnet while I turn the bolt.

 

[wilbilt]

Muffler shop guys will often tack a piece of welding rod to a nut to hold it while starting the bolt.

Hanger brackets, hitches, etc.

 

[Jbullfrog]

I have an old Mac Tools nut holder. It has 2 jaws and a spring handle similar to a claw grabber. I am also a believer in the welding rod trick.

 

[JB740i]

The tricky part is that I can't turn the bolt since the head of it is right next to the mount. It's already gound down to fit.

Maybe I need a longer threaded bolt so I can have the head above the post.

Will have to see if I have enough space in the frame to do it I guess.

Last resort will be drilling another hole through the mounting plate but dont' look forward to that. The frame angles down below the plate and so drilling through that wouldn't be much fun.

No welder to be able to use the welding rod trick but I'll file that away for the future. Thanks

 

[48548]

Can you use a deep socket with an extension on it and "carefully do it" with out the nut falling off? Maybe put grease on it to hold the nut on the socket.

 

[Fedwrench]

If one side of the nut fits against the frame rail so, it won't move when the bolt is tightened, how about using a magnetic pick up tool to hold the nut as you start the bolt?

 

[Merkava_4]

... how about using a magnetic pick up tool to hold the nut as you start the bolt?

Gee ... what a splendid idea!

 

[wilbilt]

I'm sorry, I misunderstood the original post.

If the bolt can't be turned, there must be a way the original modifier was able to turn the nut.

A "Sidewinder" ratchet? Stacked universals? A short wrench, with final tightening by pry bar?

It sounds like it must have been a creative solution, however it was done.

 

[garfunkle24]

Would this trick work for you? Can be done with ratchet wrenches also.

 

[billymade]

So, I am not the ONLY one who does that?

 

[jniolon]

I'm assuming you're in a blind place since the frame rail is boxed... how about drilling (or hole sawing) thru the frame rail from the outside.. attack it with sockets/extensions then weld a plug back in the hold (it's inside the hole saw) grind it out and you're done.

john

 

[Uncle Buck]

I'm assuming you're in a blind place since the frame rail is boxed... how about drilling (or hole sawing) thru the frame rail from the outside.. attack it with sockets/extensions then weld a plug back in the hold (it's inside the hole saw) grind it out and you're done.

john

He already stated he does not have a welding machine.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I am curious about several things.

1) Can you install a suitable bolt in the hole?

2) If I understand correctly even if you can install a bolt, you have no way to turn the bolt even if you can get a nut located to the backside of the rail to back up the bolt, yes?

3) A socket head cap screw/bolt would gain you nothing on the outide of the frame rail?

4) My trick for reaching the inside of the frame rail is the same as everyone else really, I tape a nut to the end of a suitable length stick and hold it in place then turn the bolt from the outside.

5) Please share, will any tightening have to be accomplished from inside the rail?

6) Would installing the bolt going from the inside out with the nut on the outside instead of the inside gain you anything? Perhaps using a very thin nut on the outside?

 

[edl]

add to the tape trick and the paper towel trick the gob of vaseline trick - stick a gob of it in the wrench end, put nut in - it will hold - FWIW! - ED

 

[wilbilt]

5) Please share, will any tightening have to be accomplished from inside the rail?

UB, I think that's the main point he is making. The bolt extends inside the frame rail from the mount. It cannot be turned due to clearance issues at the mount.

Therefore, he needs to start the nut inside the frame, run it down and tighten it with very limited clearance.

 

[Uncle Buck]

UB, I think that's the main point he is making. The bolt extends inside the frame rail from the mount. It cannot be turned due to clearance issues at the mount.

Therefore, he needs to start the nut inside the frame, run it down and tighten it with very limited clearance.

Then perhaps he could tape a bolt to the inside of a gearwrench then hold the nut in the fixed position needed on the outside of the frame rail...........well, that may not be exactly it but you get the idea something along those lines

 

[wilbilt]

Then perhaps he could tape a bolt to the inside of a gearwrench then hold the nut in the fixed position needed on the outside of the frame rail...........well, that may not be exactly it but you get the idea something along those lines

I don't follow...he does not have access from the outside of the frame rail. I'm thinking he is reaching in from the front of the frame adjacent to the front bumper.

Boxed frame on a FJ-40.

 

[Uncle Buck]

I don't follow...he does not have access from the outside of the frame rail. I'm thinking he is reaching in from the front of the frame adjacent to the front bumper.

Boxed frame on a FJ-40.

Heck Wil, I don't even know what an FJ-40 is!

 

[toolfreak]

What about using a bolt with either a 12pt head or an allen head? They have smaller heads than a standard bolt and would possibly
allow you to tighten from the outside.

 

[wilbilt]

What about using a bolt with either a 12pt head or an allen head? They have smaller heads than a standard bolt and would possibly
allow you to tighten from the outside.

If you could access them from the outside....

 

[eschoendorff]

Heck Wil, I don't even know what an FJ-40 is!

 

[Uncle Buck]

"I can see!" said the blind man, "I can see!" Thanks Eschoendorff!

 

[eschoendorff]

"I can see!" said the blind man, "I can see!" Thanks Eschoendorff!

google is your friend

 

[russlaferrera]

My idea....Use an Allen head cap screw instead of the bolt. For the nut, use a 3/8 ish piece of steel 1 X 6-8 ish. Drill and tap it to the bolt/screw size. It should be long enough to slide into the frame so you can align it to the bolt hole.

 

[Uncle Buck]

What about using a bolt with either a 12pt head or an allen head? They have smaller heads than a standard bolt and would possibly
allow you to tighten from the outside.

My idea....Use an Allen head cap screw instead of the bolt. For the nut, use a 3/8 ish piece of steel 1 X 6-8 ish. Drill and tap it to the bolt/screw size. It should be long enough to slide into the frame so you can align it to the bolt hole.

You guys call a socket head cap screw/bolt an Allen head? That was the same idea I had earlier in the thread except I call them socket head cap screw/bolts?