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Professionally installed flake floor, need help.

formula388

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Aug 18, 2011
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Location
West Islip, NY
My floor was completed on the 17th of November.
The installer used purepoxy products, the slab temperature was between 52-55 deg F during installation.
The system included:
Day 1: Grind and Install Purepoxy PE-100 VRM (Vapor Reducing Membrane)
Day 2: Install Gray PE-100 100% solids Epoxy base coat with full broadcast flake
Day 3: Install Purepoxy Polyaspartic Top coat (I did not get the specific product as I was not there during install)

-I would say overall the floor looks pretty good, I do however have concerns that I am not sure how or if they can be addressed.
-There are spots I have issues with, specifically around the outside that there is excessive flake buildup that I am going to say wasnt scraped enough. (See pictures)
-The stem walls feel like there is a minimal amount of polyaspartic and do not feel like the floor. (Minor issue as I don't plan to walk on the stem wall but I would have liked to been able to wipe it clean if needed.
-If I look really closely at the floor I feel as though the gray epoxy coat was thick in some areas and thin in others. I can see the clear VRM and the aggregate in the concrete if I look closely in some areas and then some areas the gray base coat is clearly evident.
-Lastly and this is my biggest concern, it still smells horrible 12 days later. I left the garage door open 10-12 hours per day for the first week and now I try to open it when I am home as I live where houses are close together. My garage is what I would consider "tightly" built, closed cell spray foam, taped sheathing etc... it is fully drywalled and painted. There was no smell whatsoever before the flooring went down, it smells like a strong wet paint.

Do you guys have any recommendations when talking to the flooring installers? We have been playing phone tag and date tag trying to get them back in, of course they are asking for the remaining payment but I am not happy with the issues listed above... Please help!
Thank you,
Dennis

Thumbnail Photos Below.

Current.JPEGSince the floor install I had a lift installed... hopefully the flooring guys can work around this if repairs are needed.
Overall 2.JPEGOverall view (I think overall it looks decent) Overall.JPEG Overall again.
Near Wall 2.JPEG Rough area near stem wall, the center of the floor looks/feels smooth. Near Wall.JPEG Rough Floor.JPEG near wall again.
Thin Epoxy.JPEG If you look close near the center you can see a gap where there is no flake and I can see the aggregate from grinding... Thin Epoxy 2.JPEGthere are lots of minor gaps where there are no flakes and you can see that if you look closely.
Thick Epoxy.JPEG This image shows what I consider the "thick epoxy" areas. Opposite of the images above showing the gaps.
 
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formula388

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Aug 18, 2011
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West Islip, NY
I understand that some of the Professionals on here don't want to criticize other peoples work. I am hoping that experienced people can advise how the issues can be repaired or remedied, or ignored if I am being too critical. I purposely left off the name of the installer, I felt the brand they used was important though.
Thanks again!
-Dennis
 

PoorUB

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Personally, I think you are being too critical. Flake coverage is done more or less by hand. They might use some sort of device to spread it out on the wet floor, but the amount of flake is decided by a person. It will always have some heavy areas and some lighter areas. It is pretty much impossible to control and get it 100% even.

If you stand back at one end of the room does it look good? Yes? Then don't worry about it.

As far as the smell, it will take some time to clear out, maybe months. Leave the garage door cracked open as often as you can and open a window if you have one.
 
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formula388

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Personally, I think you are being too critical.

If you stand back at one end of the room does it look good? Yes? Then don't worry about it.
Its good to get a sense of reality by someone else sometimes. I paid about $7/ft installed and other installers were in the $5-6 range so I went with what I thought was a higher end installer as I realize I am slightly more detail oriented then the average person.
It does look good standing back, and I am able to walk in socks comfortably in most of the room. I was more concerned that I wont be able to wipe up spills near the stem wall... and that smell is really getting to me, I cant work in there. Do I pay him before the smell is gone?
 

PoorUB

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I would pay him and move on.

As for the smell you need to ventilate it. That is about all you can do. Can you leave the garage door open a couuple inches and leave it that way? If you are concerned about security put a vice grip or c-clamp on the door track so the door will not open.
 

mike93lx

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Put your stuff in there and anything around the edges will be covered anyway.

Enjoy it and move on.

Or just have a conversation with the guy and see where it goes
 
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formula388

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The installation company came by today. I told him my major concern was the smell and minor concerns was the roughness on the walls and near the edge. Without hesitation he said the smell he is going to take up with Purepoxy as he has not experienced this lingering of a smell. He said a mop down and more ventilation might help. He also said the install did not meet his quality standard and he would like to sand the whole floor, and sand out the rough spots specifically and then apply another polyaspartic top coat. He cautioned that it would make the floor very smooth and gave me the option to add an anti skid additive. (I am hesitant of that as I like the look of the smooth floor, but also don’t want to slip…) I did not suggest anything such as a recoat that was all on him, and he did not ask for nor bring up payment. I think they certainly trying to do the right thing as a company and I appreciate that. My concerns now is that I make the wrong choice regarding the anti skid…
 

mike93lx

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The installation company came by today. I told him my major concern was the smell and minor concerns was the roughness on the walls and near the edge. Without hesitation he said the smell he is going to take up with Purepoxy as he has not experienced this lingering of a smell. He said a mop down and more ventilation might help. He also said the install did not meet his quality standard and he would like to sand the whole floor, and sand out the rough spots specifically and then apply another polyaspartic top coat. He cautioned that it would make the floor very smooth and gave me the option to add an anti skid additive. (I am hesitant of that as I like the look of the smooth floor, but also don’t want to slip…) I did not suggest anything such as a recoat that was all on him, and he did not ask for nor bring up payment. I think they certainly trying to do the right thing as a company and I appreciate that. My concerns now is that I make the wrong choice regarding the anti skid…
Glad you talked to him.

If there will ever be water in there, anti slip will be a good idea.
 

GlennSullivan

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334
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Yorktown, NY
The installation company came by today. I told him my major concern was the smell and minor concerns was the roughness on the walls and near the edge. Without hesitation he said the smell he is going to take up with Purepoxy as he has not experienced this lingering of a smell. He said a mop down and more ventilation might help. He also said the install did not meet his quality standard and he would like to sand the whole floor, and sand out the rough spots specifically and then apply another polyaspartic top coat. He cautioned that it would make the floor very smooth and gave me the option to add an anti skid additive. (I am hesitant of that as I like the look of the smooth floor, but also don’t want to slip…) I did not suggest anything such as a recoat that was all on him, and he did not ask for nor bring up payment. I think they certainly trying to do the right thing as a company and I appreciate that. My concerns now is that I make the wrong choice regarding the anti skid…
Glad you seem to have a stand-up contractor.
Go with the anti-skid. My installer used aluminum oxide powder mixed into the top coat which was color. on mine, there is no noticeable “sand like” or rough finish and it is not slippery when wet or with wet shoes.
My concern from your original pics was in the transition from horizontal to vertical and how the flakes Look in that area. I probably would not have tried to flake the vertical wall.
The installation company came by today. I told him my major concern was the smell and minor concerns was the roughness on the walls and near the edge. Without hesitation he said the smell he is going to take up with Purepoxy as he has not experienced this lingering of a smell. He said a mop down and more ventilation might help. He also said the install did not meet his quality standard and he would like to sand the whole floor, and sand out the rough spots specifically and then apply another polyaspartic top coat. He cautioned that it would make the floor very smooth and gave me the option to add an anti skid additive. (I am hesitant of that as I like the look of the smooth floor, but also don’t want to slip…) I did not suggest anything such as a recoat that was all on him, and he did not ask for nor bring up payment. I think they certainly trying to do the right thing as a company and I appreciate that. My concerns now is that I make the wrong choice regarding the anti skid…
Im
 
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formula388

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West Islip, NY
Glad you seem to have a stand-up contractor.
Go with the anti-skid. My installer used aluminum oxide powder mixed into the top coat which was color. on mine, there is no noticeable “sand like” or rough finish and it is not slippery when wet or with wet shoes.
My concern from your original pics was in the transition from horizontal to vertical and how the flakes Look in that area. I probably would not have tried to flake the vertical wall.
Thanks for the advice with the anti skid, I was concerned that I wouldnt be able to kneel on it to setup the lift, or wipe down the floor when I spill something on it. They said they do the stem walls all the time, it is rougher then I would like but they will recoat that as well. I plan to put up diamond plate up 36" on the drywall, this lands me about a 1/2" below all my outlets and should "protect" the wall from greasy hands and minor scuffs. I think the finished stem wall will look goof with the diamond plate above it.
 

GlennSullivan

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Thanks for the advice with the anti skid, I was concerned that I wouldnt be able to kneel on it to setup the lift, or wipe down the floor when I spill something on it. They said they do the stem walls all the time, it is rougher then I would like but they will recoat that as well. I plan to put up diamond plate up 36" on the drywall, this lands me about a 1/2" below all my outlets and should "protect" the wall from greasy hands and minor scuffs. I think the finished stem wall will look goof with the diamond plate above it.
BTW, Nice Rotary Lift, they are the gold standard. When I bought my lift in 2006, it was between Challenger and Rotary and I went with the Challenger. Challenger is a great product, but still think the Rotary is better.
 

FMB4

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Quote "The installer used purepoxy products, the slab temperature was between 52-55 deg F during installation."

Are the above temps within the recommendations of Purepoxy, etc?
 
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formula388

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Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove that spotting dish so the flooring company can recoat the floor? The Anchors have no head and I saw were hammered down to install. They look like carriage bolts from the top but I think the were some sort of S shape anchor that gets pounded into the floor and holds down the spotting dish.
The floor company said they can work around it if needed but I know its always better to have a clear floor.
 

mike93lx

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Anyone have any suggestions on how to remove that spotting dish so the flooring company can recoat the floor? The Anchors have no head and I saw were hammered down to install. They look like carriage bolts from the top but I think the were some sort of S shape anchor that gets pounded into the floor and holds down the spotting dish.
The floor company said they can work around it if needed but I know its always better to have a clear floor.
I'd leave it be. If there is no head, you probably have to grind it off.

Or ask the lift company
 

Steve113

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so my floor guy is saying they coat year round in CT. I have a 1500 sq ft heated garage kept (65-70deg all winter) that he said no problem we dont have to wait till spring . Is this right ?
 

mike93lx

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so my floor guy is saying they coat year round in CT. I have a 1500 sq ft heated garage kept (65-70deg all winter) that he said no problem we dont have to wait till spring . Is this right ?
Read the instructions for the product being installed.

Also check your floor temperature
 

PoorUB

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Usually the floor temp has to be above roughly 55 degrees. If any of the floor is colder than that I wouldn't do it. Solvents in the finish will gas off faster with a warmer floor.

But again, it depends n the product.
 

Killer95Stang

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Just a guess, so please correct me if I'm wrong. My thoughts are it was near the cold limits when installed and the epoxy didn't have enough time to off gas before it was sealed up by the polysparic. If it was a 1 day install, then that might be the answer.
 
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formula388

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Just a guess, so please correct me if I'm wrong. My thoughts are it was near the cold limits when installed and the epoxy didn't have enough time to off gas before it was sealed up by the polysparic. If it was a 1 day install, then that might be the answer.
I think you are correct, it was not a 1 day install, infact it was 3 days... but still cold outside and 50ish degree slab. The epoxy was down with flake for about 24 hours before the polyaspartic went on top. The smell is getting less but still strong enough that it is on my clothes when I am in there for even a few minutes my wife can smell it on me.
 

CudaA39

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I recently got a 440sqft garage done, same exact style (likely same product), and it took 3x longer than they estimated to get the smell out. Even after a few days of running a fan non stop, it would still burn your lungs like you got chest punched. Had the company come out because I was concerned the two part epoxy was not fully curing, but he assured me it wasn't out of the norm. After another two weeks it was "ok", and it's completely fine after 5 months.
 
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formula388

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I recently got a 440sqft garage done, same exact style (likely same product), and it took 3x longer than they estimated to get the smell out. Even after a few days of running a fan non stop, it would still burn your lungs like you got chest punched. Had the company come out because I was concerned the two part epoxy was not fully curing, but he assured me it wasn't out of the norm. After another two weeks it was "ok", and it's completely fine after 5 months.
Was yours installed in a cold temperature, or was it installed "quickly" between coats? I am still waiting for my installer to sand down the floor and reinstall the top polyaspartic coat, but it still smells. I've been leaving the heat on in hopes that the heat helps the off gassing process.
 
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formula388

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I am still waiting to get fit in the schedule for the sanding and recoat. In the meantime, I called Purepoxy, as its been almost a month since install and the smell is still there. They said the first two coats should have zero smell because they are 100% solids and have no solvents that need to evaporate. They said the polyaspartic is what would smell because it is 85% solids, they said that if it is hard it the smell should have dissipated fairly quickly. They didn't have a good solution, suggested a good mop down and continue to ventilate, and said hopefully the sanding of the top coat and a recoat will take care of the smell as well as the roughness. We will see I suppose!
 

Basketcase

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I am still waiting to get fit in the schedule for the sanding and recoat. In the meantime, I called Purepoxy, as its been almost a month since install and the smell is still there. They said the first two coats should have zero smell because they are 100% solids and have no solvents that need to evaporate. They said the polyaspartic is what would smell because it is 85% solids, they said that if it is hard it the smell should have dissipated fairly quickly. They didn't have a good solution, suggested a good mop down and continue to ventilate, and said hopefully the sanding of the top coat and a recoat will take care of the smell as well as the roughness. We will see I suppose!
How did this ever turn out?

I remember reading this years ago… and when searching today about Purepoxy products, it came up again.
 
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