ProFusion 5000 W 240-Volt heater

[theshallowbay]

I just bought a ProFusion 5000 W 240-Volt heater for my garage. My garage is finished and attached to the house. I want to wire it tomorrow and have some questions. I've literally only replaced a few switches and outlets in my day so go easy on me.

1. The most direct route from panel to garage is a wall cavity that has duct work in it. Any problems routing the wire this way?

2. I need to drill some wall studs to run size 10 & 12 Romex. I read that a 3/4" hole centered in the stud is the way to go. Can I run both wires through the same hole or should I keep them separated? If separated, how far apart should the holes be? Anything wrong with drilling towards the bottom of the stud?

3. I would like to wire in a thermostat. The manual states it must be rated for 26.5 amps or higher. All the stats I have found have been rated for 22 amps or lower. Considering the heater only pulls 20.8 amps, would I be fine using a lower amp model?

4. There's a switch right below the potential heater spot that controls an outdoor light. I would like to put a switch for the heater right next to it. Can you run two separate circuits in the same switch box?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[ForceFed70]

1) So long as you can secure the cable (staples) and it's not inside the actual duct work you are fine.

2) Can share a hole. Might want to drill 1" holes if that's your plan. Be careful with friction when pulling your 2nd cable through. It's easy to have the cables rub (usually at the holes) and burn off the outer jacket.

3) Manuals make these specifications for a reason. But if 22A is all you can find then I'd give it a try. I've got 5000W baseboard heaters setup as a backup heat source and they've been fine on a 22A rated thermostats.

4) Sharing a box isn't a problem. But you're going to have a hard time finding an appropriate switch. Most of us just rely on the circuit breaker and thermostat to control the heater. Unless you have some sort of unique requirement I'd skip the switch.

 

[Want2race]

The problem you will have is the unit runs the fan after turning off the heat. That lengthens the life of the heating element. If you use a baseboard thermostat it will turn all power off.

I started collecting parts to run the fan on a time delayed relay but before you know it you have another $400 in parts on a $100 heater...

 

[ForceFed70]

I bet you could re-wire the internal thermostat to a remote location pretty easily.

 

[theshallowbay]

Thanks for the responses.

Hopefully I can find a 30 amp line voltage thermostat. I started looking into an electric heater relay so I could run a regular programmable stat. It was easily $100+ and not worth it considering I only paid $150 for the heater.

Any particular reason you would skip a switch? Couldn't I use a regular 30 amp switch? I would only use one if I couldn't find a properly rated stat. I would only use one leg so it killed the heating element but allowed the fan to run. It would sure beat getting a ladder every time I wanted to turn the heater on/off.

 

[justinjoyal]

Why would you want a switch to control the heater? Isnt that what the thermostat's for ?

 

[matt_i]

At almost any cost I would go up and over or under the duct work somehow if at all possible. I believe the NEC prohibits romex in duct work. An EMT sleeve would be an illegal hack but then you are into heat leakage, etc, etc.

I'm not sure if a #10-2 and a #12-2 romex will fit in a 3/4" hole. I'd drill a 7/8", centered. Code wants romex secured every 4-1/2 feet at minimum when run along a flat surface.

For $12 + tax you can buy a 30A double pole switch if you are near a Home Depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941

A definite purpose contactor is a pretty inexpensive way to get thru this.
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-24VAC-Open-Definite-Purpose-6GNY4
This one use a 24vac coil, so you'd need a HVAC 120:24 vac transformer and then use a bog standard residential wall switch in series with a thermostat to switch the 24vac coil voltage, or just use the on-off switch on the Tstat. The 240vac power could be stopped by the switch above or just use the circuit breaker.

 

[ForceFed70]

Any particular reason you would skip a switch? Couldn't I use a regular 30 amp switch? I would only use one if I couldn't find a properly rated stat. I would only use one leg so it killed the heating element but allowed the fan to run. It would sure beat getting a ladder every time I wanted to turn the heater on/off.

As Justinjoyal mentioned - it's not needed. Just turn it on/off with the thermostat.

 

[Falcon67]

3. I would like to wire in a thermostat. The manual states it must be rated for 26.5 amps or higher. All the stats I have found have been rated for 22 amps or lower. Considering the heater only pulls 20.8 amps, would I be fine using a lower amp model?

4. There's a switch right below the potential heater spot that controls an outdoor light. I would like to put a switch for the heater right next to it. Can you run two separate circuits in the same switch box?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

3. I'd work with the existing t-stat on the unit, you might be surprised that it works well enough. I've never felt the need for an external, I can set my G73 (Dayton model, similar) at between L and O (LO on the dial) and it'll stay at 68~70 in that room depending on the weather.

4. I never put a switch on the unit. In the summer I just turn off the breaker. No need for extra wiring and complication.

 

[Slabo]

You just need an electric heater relay like the Honeywell R841C1169. It allows you to use any two wire 24v thermostat to control up to a 5000W electric heater. Just use it to bypass the internal thermostat on the unit heater. That way it will retain any cool down fan time.