ProFusion Heat Ceiling-Mount Garage Heater — 17,065 BTU, 240 Volts, Model# EH-4604

[bagged89s10]

I just ordered one of these. Under $100 shipped with northern tools $20 off $100 coupon.



http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200578579_200578579?MobileOptOut=1

I'll only be using it when in the garage. Maybe a few hours per day max. I think it should heat my barely insulated 22x20 garage. I was using propane but it puts out too much moisture and my bare metal tools and projects were getting rusty. I just want to get the chill out if he air. I estimate a monthly cost of $30-$40.

 

[larry4406]

That looks like a great deal!

I bought a Fahrenheat Fuh54c at Home Depot for $250. Same 5000W rating.

 

[THR1LL3R]

I bought one for my 20x25 (10'vaulted ceiling). So far it keeps it around 65 degrees in 30 degree weather. Wish I would have bought the step up from it thats between 200-250 dollars. To ************ to leave it running when Im not home.



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[bagged89s10]

I bought one for my 20x25 (10'vaulted ceiling). So far it keeps it around 65 degrees in 30 degree weather. Wish I would have bought the step up from it thats between 200-250 dollars. To ************ to leave it running when Im not home.



View media item 56114

Nice! I will only let it run when I'm at home and working in garage. I'm happy at 50-55F in the garage.

 

[bagged89s10]

ProFusion Heat Ceiling-Mount Garage Heater — 17,065 BTU, 240 Volts, Model# EH...

So I got the heater mounted where I think is the best place for it. Next I will run power to this corner of the garage. My plan is to run a 220/240volt 30 amp circuit to an outlet for welder/plasma. Then wire up to the heater with a cut off switch.









I stopped by the electrical supply house after work and picked up 50' of 10/2 Romex/nm cable. I also picked up a 4ft 10ga appliance whip, a 30amp on/off switch and some old work boxes. I'll take pictures of the progress.

 

[nadogail]

Mine was delivered today, looking to get it hooked up and running Saturday.

Will be tapping of the 50 Amp welder circuit using a 30 Amp fused disconnect in accordance with the 10 foot tap rule.

Paid $99.95 plus about $19 shipping. Using NM-12 to the 10-3 whip.

Pictures when completed.

 

[bagged89s10]

Mine was delivered today, looking to get it hooked up and running Saturday.

Will be tapping of the 50 Amp welder circuit using a 30 Amp fused disconnect in accordance with the 10 foot tap rule.

Paid $99.95 plus about $19 shipping. Using NM-12 to the 10-3 whip.

Pictures when completed.

Can you explain that rule? Does that rule apply in your case as you are adding a smaller amp circuit onto a larger circuit?

 

[dkroth]

Same heater, different brand (such as it is) for $109.99 with free shipping.

http://www.ruralking.com/heater-240...z2Oda8awlX_G61A7h0GM6tOqejNJgjgTpQaAlKY8P8HAQ

 

[StigMX5]

Dkroth

Just to give you a little review, I just installed the 7500w version of that heater for my 24x32 pole barn. I spent the last week putting 1.5" foam between the purlins on the wall. I added R-13 and baffles between the rafters trusses next to the roof so that I could keep some light storage in the rafters.

The heater heats up the garage within 20-30 minutes so I'm happy with the results. I've set the thermostat to the lowest setting before off and the temp in the building stays between 40-45. The heater seems to be running about 15 minutes an hour here in Ohio with the temperature around 15-20




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[dkroth]

Actually, I have a 10kW Fahrenheat in my garage. I liked it so much I bought the 5kW Comfort Zone for my basement figuring they're all coming from the same factory in China.

The Comfort Zone controls aren't quite as nice as the Fahrenheat, but for the price I can live with it.

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, best explanation of the 10 foot tap rule is found on Google.

Basically, as I understand it, a high current feeder can be tapped with a lower current circuit if the lower circuit over current protection is no more than ten feet from the actual tap.

There are exceptions and special conditions in the practical application of the rule, I encourage everyone to investigate their own unique situation.

 

[rlev11]

I have had the ComfortZone model (exact same thing only different name) since 2012 and it is still working great. I did have to replace the switch after the first year as the the thermostat portion of it went out. It was either on or off, it would not turn off once it reached temperature. I found one on ebay, think I paid under $20.00 for it and just swapped the wires to the new one. And just last week the plastic knob broke, ordered a new one on Amazon for around 5 bucks shipped. All in all not bad for what I paid for it back then.

 

[bagged89s10]

So I don't want my heater in all the time. I also don't want the heating element to burn out. What's the best way to wire a cut off switch or remote thermostat.

 

[rlev11]

On my ComfortZone brand, the knob all the way counter clockwise is full off. It does not come on at all. You can put an external shut off switch in line with it, but it really isn't needed unless you are putting the heater up too high that it would be a pain to reach the knob. I really don't think these run a cooling cycle with the fan while the heating elements are off. I've just turned it on and off with the knob. I guess if you are really worried about it, just wait until the fan is off before you turn off a remote switch.

 

[bagged89s10]

On my ComfortZone brand, the knob all the way counter clockwise is full off. It does not come on at all. You can put an external shut off switch in line with it, but it really isn't needed unless you are putting the heater up too high that it would be a pain to reach the knob. I really don't think these run a cooling cycle with the fan while the heating elements are off. I've just turned it on and off with the knob. I guess if you are really worried about it, just wait until the fan is off before you turn off a remote switch.

Ok the profusion is probably the exact heater so it should operate the same. I didn't want to incorrectly wire something and have issues.

 

[bagged89s10]

I had time today to finish running the 10/2 Romex and got the heater wired up.
I ran the wire to this welder outlet first and pigtailed the wiring that goes up to a switch for the heater. I like to twist all my connections, wire nut them, and tape them.

I wasn't thinking and had issues when installing this box for the heater cutoff switch. This switch will allow me to use the welder outlet and turn the heater off. I first installed a 2x4 box even though I bought a heavy duty 4x4 box for it. Then I put in this light duty 4x4 box and busted it up while installing it. I installed this box before the others and completely forgot about the nice heavy duty extra capacity box I bought. I'm going to change it out tomorrow. I guess that's what happens when you work while hungry.


From the switch to a 2x4 box which connects to the 10gauge 4ft appliance whip.


The cover was made for surface mount boxes and the short screws don't work. I only had one longer screw so I'll have to get another long screw to screw on the face plate.

The heater is connected and works

The light stays on when the knob is turned off. Not sure if stays in all the time but I'll be using my wall switch to turn the heater off anyway.


I'm going to move the heater over to the left towards the wiring to move it away from my overhead storage shelf. I want to add sliding doors to enclose the shelving and the heater would be too close. Then I will throw up a clamp to hold up the appliance whip. I still need to buy faceplates for the switch box and welder outlet. Now I just need it to get cold so I can test out the heater. Today was close to 50F out.

 

[nadogail]

The Yellow light tell us there is available power to the heater.

I verified this on my heater this morning.

 

[NICKS]

Dkroth

Just to give you a little review, I just installed the 7500w version of that heater for my 24x32 pole barn. I spent the last week putting 1.5" foam between the purlins on the wall. I added R-13 and baffles between the rafters trusses next to the roof so that I could keep some light storage in the rafters.

The heater heats up the garage within 20-30 minutes so I'm happy with the results. I've set the thermostat to the lowest setting before off and the temp in the building stays between 40-45. The heater seems to be running about 15 minutes an hour here in Ohio with the temperature around 15-20




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How tall are your ceilings? I'm currently building a stand alone 24x32 garage with 9 foot ceilings and installed the 5K watt version. I'm curious as to how much this thing is going to run with keeping it 40-45* when I'm not out there. I live in NW Iowa and usually it gets cold in the winter.
This is my secondary garage so the doors won't be going up and down all the time. I have R15 in the walls and will have R30-R38 in the attic.

 

[StigMX5]

The garage has 8' walls. The foam between the purlins is about R5. When I was in it earlier this week, the heater was running about 15 minutes an hour with the outside temp at 19.

You have much better insulation so I would think your loss would be less than mine.


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[bagged89s10]

I used the heater today. I find running a fan to circulate the air more helps tremendously. I had it up to 60F. Then I turned the t-stat down and the heater went on probably 15-20 per hour. It was 20F outside and the garage stayed at 50-55F. My garage is finished with no insulation right now but I'm happy with the little heater. It will be even better when I insulted the attic.

 

[Crazy68Dart]

My old garage was 18x24. I had R13 in the walls and ceiling. I'll get a pic, but had a 5600w heater. HeatStream I believe is the label/company, but this particular unit is no longer made. Unit sits on the floor, forced air with a 3200w/5600w switch, and thermostat/dial.

Anyway, it worked great to keep the garage as warm as I needed it while working. When using the 240V welder, I would just unplug it and plug the welder in.

Electric heat is nice, clean, simple, and effective. Only downside is that it might be more expensive in the long run.

 

[nadogail]

Solar panels on the roof will reduce your electricity cost.

 

[Catadj78]

I have a 40x40 with insulated with bubble wrap. We may get into the low 20s most of the time here. How many would be needed to get the temps to 70 in the shop?

I have 200 amp service, would each one need to be on its own circuit?

I was thinking 3 in the corners.

Seems like a great deal if they work well and it seems like they do

 

[bagged89s10]

Here is my fan mounted on the wall to circulate the heat better in the garage.

 

[nadogail]

There would be both pros and cons to wiring three electric garage heaters on a common circuit.
1. 30 amp wiring, 10 gauge, is physically easier to install than the heavy stuff you will need for 90 amps.
2. Components for 30 amp systems are more readily available at competitive prices than 100 amp stuff. Frequently electricians find 10 gauge wire and things just "laying around" at job sites. 100 amp stuff, being both larger and more expensive, not so much.
3. Flexibility of control, 30 amp systems can provide some heat while other heaters are being installed. You avoid the "All or Nothing" of a 90 amp single line system.
On the other hand. 3 thirty amp heaters, wired individually, will require 6 spaces in your panel, a 90 amp breaker for three heaters needs only two spaces.

 

[bagged89s10]

I was using the heater yesterday and the unit turned off and the caution light is on. Maybe the thermal cut out was activated. The unit has cooled for about 20 hours but If I turn the switch on for the heater, the same light is on and he heater won't kick on. Has anyone had this issue and have a fix? I'm going to assume something burned out as it did smell of something burning out.

 

[bagged89s10]

Opened the cover before work. Looks like the wire going to the overheat protection burned out. I'll have to call their tech support to find out what could cause it.

 

[isucyclone]

Opened the cover before work. Looks like the wire going to the overheat protection burned out. I'll have to call their tech support to find out what could cause it.

Did you find a solution to this? I just experienced the same issue with mine. Haven't called tech support yet but cannot find a replacement thermal cut out online.

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[bagged89s10]

Did you find a solution to this? I just experienced the same issue with mine. Haven't called tech support yet but cannot find a replacement thermal cut out online.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

No. Living with no heat for now. And I will not order from northern tool again since their customer service is useless.

 

[isucyclone]

No. Living with no heat for now. And I will not order from northern tool again since their customer service is useless.

Thanks for the quick reply. I was afraid of this. Maybe I should have seen it coming when I purchased a cheap heater.

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[Stuff]

The schematic doesn't show a fuse or circuit breaker so the overtemp sensor acts as one. I wonder if one of the heating elements broke and shorted out.

I don't see a UL or other safety listing on it - is there one?

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

No. Living with no heat for now. And I will not order from northern tool again since their customer service is useless.

+1

I refuse to purchase anything from there anymore. It's Harbor Freight or Menards from now on.

 

[BlueHeart]

I purchased my Pro Fusion 7500W heater from Menards.

 

[The_Auto_Tech]

I purchased my Pro Fusion 7500W heater from Menards.

That's where mine came from as well. Couldn't be happier with it's performance so far.

 

[larry4406]

OP - any chance your remote switch/tsat contributed to its untimely death?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

My guess is the female connector was loose on the Klixon (overheat protection stat) male spade. it heated up from resistance until it burned out.

Tommy

 

[Lewisthepilgrim]

I've had that same heater going on 5 years now. Best 100 bucks I've spent
my only complaint is air circulation. An additional fan in the garage is definitely needed with these.

I just ordered 2 more for my new garage. (20x25)
Now I just need to decide whether I'm gonna spend the money on 3 gauge wire for a 100 amp panel, or run 2, 4 gauge lines for separate 60amp pannels (costs the same)