programmable baseboard electric?

[rieferman]

The finished 15' x 15' area in my barn will be insulated and I was planning to use baseboard electric (hydronic) heat in the winter time, one of the stand alone plug in models or maybe hard wired depending on options. For the size of the room, the amount of time we occupy the room, and the cost of the heaters, this seems to be the most reasonable way to go.

The room will be used as an exercise room - I generally do my workouts at 6 a.m. before I get ready for work...

So that the room is heated in the winter by the time I get out there each morning, what are the options to make this type of unit programmable (do I need a wall mounted programable thermostat similar to what I have in the house.. the honeywell touch screen type of setup)? Must the heater be hard wired to take advantage of a programmable solution?

 

[rieferman]

well, from the radio silence, I guess either no one or everyone knows the answer to this one already...

Anyhow, in case anyone else searches in the future, I believe this to be the easiest answer with the most flexibility in my situation:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/?tag=atomicindus08-20


In case the link ever breaks: WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat by Lux

I'll have a dedicated outlet for plugging in a window AC, and then in the winter will use that outlet for the heater. Therefore, this plug in thermostat is easy, and is programmable.

 

[Kinger]

The only issue with a unit like that is proximity to the heat source. If your EBB sits right in front of it, the room will not heat.

 

[redsky49]

The finished 15' x 15' area in my barn will be insulated and I was planning to use baseboard electric (hydronic) heat in the winter time,

FYI. Hydronic refers to hot water, not electric.

 

[rieferman]

redsky, I'm confused possibly. I understand that there is fluid in the type of heater that I'm referring to, but it is plugged in (not gas powered etc.). Therefore electrical.

wait, and the name given to these products actually includes electric in the title.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...t_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=AP9TLT2LX6QXY&v=glance

Fahrenheat Portable Electric Hydronic Heater, Model# LFP6152

So that I more clearly explain any future questions, how should these types of units be described?

edit: kinger - good call on placement of unit vs. outlet.

 

[redsky49]

I see what you are talking about. These are still electric resistance heaters, though they use the oil or fluid fill to establish some thermal mass.
Not correctly called hydronic, though I suspect that the manufacturer is using that term for marketing purposes.

I have occasionally used electric baseboard heaters (American Stabilis, Brasch, Chromalox, etc.) to counter heat loss at large glass store fronts when other options were not available. This makes for a nice warm comfort level if you can select a low wattage unit that spans a long distance as opposed to a high wattage unit . The idea is to spread the heating element over a wide area without overheating the space.

For your brief use of a room, the proposed unit appears acceptable. As to how to control this, I would look for the simplest method possible, such as a plug-in timer at the receptacle. Have the unit start 15 minutes prior to occupancy, and have the unit shut off 15 minutes prior to the end of your exercise program. Thermal inertia will keep the room warm for your finish up stretches.

Verify that the circuit wiring, breaker and timer are suitable for the device. The Honeywell unit you describe is rated for 15A, and the heater is 12.5A so you should be okay. I would suggest trying the heater at the 750W setting for safety. People set fires every year from space heaters. Never use with an extension cord. Do not place on or near combustibles. Avoid heavy dust buildup. Be safe.

Good luck with your project.

As always, offered only as opinion

 

[rieferman]

wow, best answer ever. Seriously, that explained it all extremely well - I definitely appreciate it!

 

[redsky49]

Glad it was helpful, though please note that I was only addressing the question you asked. I do not know if the heater will have adequate capacity (you do not give your location or construction details), I have no personal experience with the heater you mention, nor did I address the issue of this being served by a dedicated circuit of the proper capacity, etc.

You still need to be cautious, do your homework, and not rely on faceless sources on the internet where much information, however well intentioned, is often misguided, self serving, or simply wrong.

Don't mean to be negative, just trying to emphasize that you need to keep your eyes wide open. Caveat emptor.

Good luck with your project. Go exercise

As always, offered only as opinion

 

[rieferman]

You still need to be cautious, do your homework

Absolutely, I couldn't agree more. My friends/wife/neighbors would laugh because they're always teasing me about being so OCD about planning and preparation. I generally like to: google search for baseline level of knowledge, internet forum conversations to build on it, face to face with professionals whenever possible or necessary, read a book dedicated to the topic at hand (this weekend is "the basics of electrical wiring"), use common sense at the end of the day.

I do not know if the heater will have adequate capacity (you do not give your location or construction details), I have no personal experience with the heater you mention, nor did I address the issue of this being served by a dedicated circuit of the proper capacity, etc.

To add more specifics. About 15 x 15 room, square. Entry door from outside, and another interior door to the uninsulated portion of the building. 3 windows 28 wide x 66 tall, double paned high efficiency. Insulate all 4 walls with R13 pink batts. Ceiling will likely be uninsulated - there is about 2 inches of wood floor above, and I like the look from underneath (plus, only occassional usage of the room, so energy efficiency isn't as much of a concern for me). I'm near Philadelphia, so we have cold winters, but not cold like New England where I grew up. I'd calculate approximately 5000 btus needed. I will have a dedicated outlet/circuit to plug any unit into. Barn is being upgraded to 100 amp service.

Don't mean to be negative, just trying to emphasize that you need to keep your eyes wide open.

Oh, no worries, I didn't take your message negatively at all. I'm happy for advice else I wouldn't ask the question

 

[kuhner]

I have a 8ft baseboard electric heater in a down stairs room. What you are looking for is a thermostat that is "programmable line voltage".
The regular thermostats control 24V DC, a thermostat for a base board heater has to control 120 or 240 AC.
They are hard to find and I mail ordered the one I use.
Here is the link http://www.luxproducts.com/thermostats/elv1.htm
Seems to be working just fine, about 3 years old now.

 

[rieferman]

Yes, the products from Lux are exactly what I was looking at, but I was looking at the Win100 model.

Heater that I posted above states these specs:
BTU Output: 2,560, 5,120,
Volts: 120,
Amps: 6.3/12.5,
Watts: 750, 1,500,
Blower Included: No,
Heat Settings: 2,
Thermostat Included: Yes,
Power Cord (ft.): 6,

And the Win100 specs:

FOR USE ONLY WITH AIR CONDITIONERS AND SPACE HEATERS THAT HAVE AUTOMATIC RESTART COOLING OR HEATING OPERATION AFTER POWER RECONNECTION

what does that mean really? specs also show:

Unit is directly powered by 120V outlet

for use on:

Window Air Conditioners – 120 VAC, 15 Amp Plug

That's just a standard AC unit right?

and for use on:

Electric Space Heaters – 120 VAC, 15 Amp Plug

I think the heater specs above show that this is ok, am I reading that right?

NOT for use on:

Conventional 24VAC Heating and Cooling Systems

Now I'm lost


SO sorry for all the questions! Really appreciate all the answers so far


EDIT: Lux representative just called me and stated that the Win100 would be a perfect choice for a baseboard electric heater such as the one above.