Project Begins

[grizzlebar]

About to take the leap and sign the proposal to build my workshop garage. A final detail here or there to nail down but looking to start in early January. Definitely excited for this project to finally come to fruition and move my car out of the current garage so my wife can move back in there.


ITEM: Detached Garage
SIZE/ SQ.FT: 20'x24' 480sq.ft
FOUNDATION TYPE: 12'' wide x 12'' deep footing (driveway is slab) BLOCK: 1-course of cmu block around perimeter
ROOF STYLE & PITCH: A-frame min. 6:12 pitch
TYPE OF SIDING: Vinyl siding -- Red to match the house
ROOFING: 30yr Architectural shingles to match house
TRIM: Aluminum wrap w/ vinyl soffit
ENTRY DOOR: 1- entry door w/ glass. Includes lock/deadbolt set GARAGE DOORS: 1- 16'x7' Insulated garage door (solid) WINDOWS: 2-vinyl windows (1 downstairs & 1 upstairs)
SECOND FLOOR: No
EXTRAS: 12' tall ceilings

 

[dhahlen]

This has to be exciting! One day... One day...

 

[toddmorr]

great...am quite interested in your project as I'm considering a garage addition of almost the identical size.

Are you planning on a lift, and if so, where will you position it?

 

[Stuart in MN]

Nice 2002!

 

[grizzlebar]

great...am quite interested in your project as I'm considering a garage addition of almost the identical size.

Are you planning on a lift, and if so, where will you position it?

Yes - on the left side of the garage (facing the door from the outside - opposite the entry door)

 

[grizzlebar]

Nice 2002!

Thanks!

 

[matt_i]

Definitely think about your electrical needs as the conduit stub, out of the concrete foundation and into a suitable location & depth into the dirt, needs to be planned ahead of time. I would add at minimum a second stub for low voltage needs (like enet for an access point).

Also, the code that's followed here requires 1 exterior light per man-door. I put mine in the soffit overhead to avoid anything "carriage related" poking out of the wall

It doesn't state but 2x4 framing will likely be used unless you specify differently. In my mind the jump to 2x6 is well worth it if you plan to insulate and heat/cool the space.

Also it doesn't state but I would prefer housewrap of some sort under the vinyl. Tyvek or generic equivalent water resistant barrier.

Are you doing soffit + ridge vents ?

So many details but Now is the time to get them all finalized!

 

[grizzlebar]

Definitely think about your electrical needs as the conduit stub, out of the concrete foundation and into a suitable location & depth into the dirt, needs to be planned ahead of time. I would add at minimum a second stub for low voltage needs (like enet for an access point).

Also, the code that's followed here requires 1 exterior light per man-door. I put mine in the soffit overhead to avoid anything "carriage related" poking out of the wall

It doesn't state but 2x4 framing will likely be used unless you specify differently. In my mind the jump to 2x6 is well worth it if you plan to insulate and heat/cool the space.

Also it doesn't state but I would prefer housewrap of some sort under the vinyl. Tyvek or generic equivalent water resistant barrier.

Are you doing soffit + ridge vents ?

So many details but Now is the time to get them all finalized!

So this garage is going in damn near against the current garage/house. Four ft is going to separate the front left corner of the existing from the front right corner of the new. As a plus I’ll be completely within range of my current wireless router

Already talking with the builder about the plan for the electrical. I am going to do a lot of the interior work and wiring myself, will have an electrician take care of tying the house panel to the new garage panel. Luckily they’re separated by about 8ft. But it’ll definitely involve a bit of concrete rework.

 

[grizzlebar]

Definitely think about your electrical needs as the conduit stub, out of the concrete foundation and into a suitable location & depth into the dirt, needs to be planned ahead of time. I would add at minimum a second stub for low voltage needs (like enet for an access point).

Also, the code that's followed here requires 1 exterior light per man-door. I put mine in the soffit overhead to avoid anything "carriage related" poking out of the wall

It doesn't state but 2x4 framing will likely be used unless you specify differently. In my mind the jump to 2x6 is well worth it if you plan to insulate and heat/cool the space.

Also it doesn't state but I would prefer housewrap of some sort under the vinyl. Tyvek or generic equivalent water resistant barrier.

Are you doing soffit + ridge vents ?

So many details but Now is the time to get them all finalized!

So this garage is going in damn near against the current garage/house. Four ft is going to separate the front left corner of the existing from the front right corner of the new. As a plus I’ll be completely within range of my current wireless router

Already talking with the builder about the plan for the electrical. I am going to do a lot of the interior work and wiring myself, will have an electrician take care of tying the house panel to the new garage panel. Luckily they’re separated by about 8ft. But it’ll definitely involve a bit of concrete rework.

 

[grizzlebar]

Just met with the builder to finalize the plans and put in the down payment. We’re gonna have to cut and remove a section of the drive way to correct the angle. There was an option to pour on top of it to level but I decided to go fresh as it would cut down on the overall height above the rest of the driveway. As a plus, the builder said I could send him the specs of four post lift I’m looking at and he’ll build the post spots even deeper so there’s no issue with weight capacity.

Electrician will be out when there’s no concrete in place to talk about tying in a sub panel to the main panel in the garage.

 

[grizzlebar]

Cutting of the driveway has begun!

Had a chance for an electrician to come out and talk powering the garage. Good news is I can save some money and do the trench myself. He’ll be on tap to make the final connections. He was also nice enough to give me a full run down of what they’re gonna look at for inspections so I’ll be ready.

My electrical permit was also approved and Miss Utility showed up not long after the electrician so I’m ready to head out and buy stuff.

 

[welder57]

Where are you located (state), in the city or outside? This will help getting advice from guys and gals near you.

 

[grizzlebar]

Virginia - Chesapeake

 

[HOTFR8]

Where are you located (state), in the city or outside? This will help getting advice from guys and gals near you.

Virginia - Chesapeake

On the advise above it would help you more if you updated your profile with a location.

 

[grizzlebar]

On the advise above it would help you more if you updated your profile with a location.

Hard to do via tapatalk without the app crashing. Next time I actually use a computer I’ll do that.

 

[grizzlebar]

Also posted in a separate electrical thread but figured I’d post here too:

Have a few questions for the group, since searching doesn’t return much:

Because the price of 3-3-3-5 CU is absurd, I’m going with 2-2-2-4 AL. I had an electrician tell me to get SEU, but everything else I’ve read says get SER. Which do I need?

With AL, I’ll be limited to a 90 amp panel, which is fine. I’m only running 30-35 feet of service line to the new garage.

With regards to the panel, do I:
-Need a panel where the main breaker separated from the rest of the breakers (I’ll call this a standard type panel since it looks like the panel in the garage currently)
-Get a Main Lug Only panel where the input wires just connect right to the busses?
-Get a matching breaker (90 amp) connect the input wires to that and connect to the panel? Can that be done on a MLO panel?

Too much searching makes it look like everyone recommends everything. Which is less than helpful.

Finally, the plan is to dig the trench this weekend. For the rough in inspection, what exactly do I show the inspector? I know the trench can’t be filled. From the looks of things I have to have the breaker and wire attached to the main panel with the breaker off. And the wire in the sub panel but not connected?

TIA

 

[HOTFR8]

Hard to do via tapatalk without the app crashing. Next time I actually use a computer I’ll do that.

 

[grizzlebar]

Just met with another electrician who does after hours side work. He gave me a full run down of everything I need to look out for, purchase, and prepare for with the inspections. Also agreed to coming out, verifying everything is up to code and such for a very agreeable price.

 

[grizzlebar]

Update shots:

 

[ddawg16]

Make sure he puts in some dowel pins.....translation....drill into the side of your existing slab about 6". Then stuff in a 12" piece of #4 rebar. Do this about every 12".

This will make sure your driveway and garage slap don't change elevations relative to each other.

 

[grizzlebar]

Footing got poured today

 

[grizzlebar]

Slab is poured

 

[grizzlebar]

Framing has started

 

[vavet]

Cutting of the driveway has begun!

Had a chance for an electrician to come out and talk powering the garage. Good news is I can save some money and do the trench myself. He’ll be on tap to make the final connections. He was also nice enough to give me a full run down of what they’re gonna look at for inspections so I’ll be ready.

My electrical permit was also approved and Miss Utility showed up not long after the electrician so I’m ready to head out and buy stuff.

I see a Ridgeline there. Did you use that to tow the excavator in or was that to haul the roll-off dumpster?

 

[grizzlebar]

Good progress being made. Guys had to stop short today because winds picked up too much to be working that high.

I’ve also scheduled a (pre) rough in inspection of the electrical. Hopefully the inspector will sign off on me back filling the trench so that I can keep it from constantly filling with water when it rains and losing bits of the sides to erosion.

 

[grizzlebar]

Inspector signed off on filling the trench.

Now I have a weekend project.

 

[dpall]

Nice 2002, i am also in chesapeake. Big into vintage bmws. Have a few e30,s

 

[grizzlebar]

Nice 2002, i am also in chesapeake. Big into vintage bmws. Have a few e30,s

Love the E30s, stumbled into the 2002 first

 

[grizzlebar]

Mounted the new sub panel and all of the outlet/fixture boxes. Started running the cables to the overhead lights and called it a day.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Strange that a stud was cut away for the conduit.

 

[rixtrix1]

The never ending work begins! Will be nice to have a dedicated space!

 

[Moose97]

I can't see a single picture. Anything I'm doing wrong?

 

[grizzlebar]

Strange that a stud was cut away for the conduit.

It wasn’t initially. I had to cut it away in order to fit the panel where I wanted it. When they did the block the conduit pipe came up a couple of degrees off.

 

[grizzlebar]

Anyone have a handy guide one what needs to be shown/done for a rough in electrical inspection?

 

[grizzlebar]

My rough in side of the electrical is done. Have a RI inspection tentatively scheduled for tomorrow

 

[grizzlebar]

Passed rough in with a single note - apparently I need a matching breaker on the sub panel.

Went ahead and put in all of the outlets. Turns out I’m one GFCI short so I’ll grab that tomorrow. Also put in the overhead lights. This is gonna be nice and bright.

 

[Glory]

Nice progress!

 

[grizzlebar]

Talked to an inspector today - since I’ve run some of the wires horizontally then I’ll need to cover the walls with drywall.

Bummer

 

[grizzlebar]

Bought a bunch of insulation today and am putting that up now. Will get drywall this week and pay a crew to put it in this weekend or so.

 

[grizzlebar]

Almost done with the electrical and insulation.

Mounted the exterior outlet box and wired it, was able to put insulation on the inside behind it.

Still waiting on the siding crew to come and start/mount the fixture boxes so I can wire and insulate around those.