Project Farm tests flex-head ratchets (and one roto-head)

[CHI_Tool&Die]

I love breaker bars and use them daily at work. I am not allowed to use an impact on the vises at work and it’s nearly impossible to maneuver an 18”+ ratchet inside a mill. So I utilize my 10”, 12”, and 15” breaker bars. Extra benefit is that once I break the SHCS loose, I can use the breaker as a speeder. I’ve tried hard to get behind ratchets at work but ultimately it’s breaker bars and swivel/roto ratchets that seem to work best.

 

[F-22]

Breaker bar can be used as a screwdriver, I often use it like that and it's something you can't do with most ratchets.



When I pull out the extension tubes, they never go on my breaker bar. I use a sliding T handle for that. Actually, those seem to still be more common than breaker bars here in Europe, and you usually get them in all kinds of socket kits. It's my only tool I'm comfortable with abusing in that way.

 

[MarcSeattle]

Not sure if this has been resolved or not but the FACOM S.161BPB 1/2 ratchet looks nearly identical to the USAG ISO 3315, both of which are SBD owned. Is Facom the OEM, or is USAG?

The 161 is an original 72-tooth Facom design from 20 years ago or so (I don't recall when they came out). I have one, made in France. I don't know where they are made now but it seems that design has spread. I love that original mechanism, the one with the heart-shaped spring. Simple, easy to lube/clean, low backdrag. Not the ratchet for dirty or dusty environments.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I used and broke my SK breaker bar yesterday. Bought a repair kit for $16 off Ebay. I couldn't get a straight shot and at the angle, my long locking flex SO didn't want to stay on the bolt. The 4 foot cheater pipe didn't help the breaker bar. I ended up having to stick a 3/4" drive socket in a lathe and shorten the socket. My Wright 3/4 breaker bar and cheater pipe got the job done.

I'll always have a breaker bar around. There's times where an impact or 3/4 drive (without modifying sockets) can't fit. A breaker bar stays on a bolt a lot better than a flex head when you need a lot of torque. My Snap-on guy most likely would have warranted my ratchet but I don't like to abuse my ratchets. A breaker bar on the other hand is no problem.

 

[General Geoff]

Breaker bar can be used as a screwdriver, I often use it like that and it's something you can't do with most ratchets.

Roto ratchets are great for this too!

 

[Rinspeed]

You

I used and broke my SK breaker bar yesterday. Bought a repair kit for $16 off Ebay. I couldn't get a straight shot and at the angle, my long locking flex SO didn't want to stay on the bolt. The 4 foot cheater pipe didn't help the breaker bar.

First time I did the rear brakes on my F-150 the lug nuts were so tight my IR 231 wouldn't even budge them. Used my SK breaker, a HF impact socket and a five foot piece of pipe. I was quite impressed neither the breaker or the socket broke. Living in the rust belt I always grease my lug studs and have since bought an Aircat 1150 which has been a great impact.

 

[Nessism]

I just received an Olsatools flex head ratchet, purchased in part, based on the Project Farm review, and all I can say is WOW, it's a very nice piece. The flex neck is tight, with almost no wobble, the back drag on the ratchet is low, the head is compact, and the fit and finish overall is outstanding. The fact that it's made in the USA is also nice, in my opinion.

I'm at a point in life where hitting the cheapest price point to get a job done isn't my prime driver. I don't want to waste money needlessly, mind you, but I don't consider a purchase like this to be that.