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Propane Garage Heat for my application

Jeepwx03

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Mar 16, 2016
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I'm looking for some advice on a decent solution for heat for my garage. We have a 500 gallon propane tank buried so I think that will be the best fuel source. The garage is 36x22 with 12.5ft ceilings. I was thinking of the 80,000 BTU big Maxx, but wonder if 3 individuals heaters in each bay might work as well. There is a 2 post lift coming for the bay with the orange mustang and eventually another 4 post for the remaining bay, so heat for all bays would be required. The measurements do not include the work area with the bench and fridge. There is a propane line near the bench and I can exhaust on the garage door side, anything else would be an eye sore from the street.
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HoosierBuddy

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Southern Indiana
I would only use 1 heater.

If you have 3 times the money, step up to a Modine effinity 93, which is a fully condensing unit that vents with pvc. It does require a condensate drain because of the "fully condensing" part. We have 3 of them at work, and they are nice units.

p.s. Nice '65.

Phil
 
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Jeepwx03

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My thoughts were that it would heat up faster as I wouldn't keep it heated all the time.

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dandan111

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Indiana
Add a fan to help circulate. Might stay cold by garage doors if your not blowing heat
At them.
 

Adk Mike

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upstate NY
Get yourself a Modine HotDog model HD60. It will work fine. I sell them in my day job and have a smaller one in my own shop. You don't say where you life but if your in the snow belt you'll be very happy.
 

peter2772000

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I'd go with a 60-80k as well, especially if you're in the snow-belt. I'm an HVAC contractor in the commercial industry, & at home I'm running a 91% efficiency Carrier residential-type furnace suspended from the ceiling. It's a 2-stage so it's not like I'm getting 80k input of heat from the get-go. Starts off at 40k and I programmed it to kick into high-gear if the desired temp isn't reached within 8 minutes. When I open the doors to my garage at -30/-40*F to bring a car in/drive it out, that garage gets damned cold damned quick.

Bonus; If you go with a residential-type furnace, you could also add an evaporator and cool the garage in the summer. Jez sayin'....LOL
 

3pedal

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Brighton, CO
My last garage had a HotDog heater and was more segmented than yours. One heater worked well. You said you won't heat all the time. I thought the same when I installed mine but ended up always running it. Would keep it in the low 50s when so I could go out anytime I wanted to work. I could turn it up pretty quick from there if I wanted. My garage was detached and would freeze without heat. Took too long to warm it up if I let it freeze.
 
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Jeepwx03

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I'd go with a 60-80k as well, especially if you're in the snow-belt. I'm an HVAC contractor in the commercial industry, & at home I'm running a 91% efficiency Carrier residential-type furnace suspended from the ceiling. It's a 2-stage so it's not like I'm getting 80k input of heat from the get-go. Starts off at 40k and I programmed it to kick into high-gear if the desired temp isn't reached within 8 minutes. When I open the doors to my garage at -30/-40*F to bring a car in/drive it out, that garage gets damned cold damned quick.

Bonus; If you go with a residential-type furnace, you could also add an evaporator and cool the garage in the summer. Jez sayin'....LOL
I was just talking about the cooling aspect with a friend. I like that idea, any suggestions on an affordable option?

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yeldogt

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While a bigger heater will bring the space up from cold quicker you will find it will short cycle and the space will go from too cold to too hot depending on the heat loss and heater placement in relation to the doors.

Most start out with the idea that they will only heat when needed and quickly understand that having a minimum temp is the way to go. I can heat my well insulated 1700sf space with a single unit with an output around 35k. It much more comfortable when the heater is sized to the heat loss -- that way it's heating the space with longer runs .. moving the heated air around the shop.
 

peter2772000

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I was just talking about the cooling aspect with a friend. I like that idea, any suggestions on an affordable option?

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Either a set-up like mine with section of duct c/w a couple adjustable-deflection grilles, an add-on evap and outdoor unit...hell, you could even go heat-pump and really save $$ on propane 'till temps get down to around +15 to +20*F. They're almost all rated to +10*F, but I find that this needlessly beats the **** outta the compressor.

Or, a stand-alone suspended unit heater and a mini-split ductless A/C set-up for cooling. It would **** a bit because with no ducts, distribution would be anything but uniform with your layout.

Or, a stand-alone suspended unit heater and a mini-split ductless heat-pump set-up for heating & cooling. It would **** a bit because with no ducts, distribution would be anything but uniform with your layout.

Where you from so I can give you an idea of prices? And no, not trying to make a sale here.... ;)
 
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Jeepwx03

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Either a set-up like mine with section of duct c/w a couple adjustable-deflection grilles, an add-on evap and outdoor unit...hell, you could even go heat-pump and really save $$ on propane 'till temps get down to around +15 to +20*F. They're almost all rated to +10*F, but I find that this needlessly beats the **** outta the compressor.

Or, a stand-alone suspended unit heater and a mini-split ductless A/C set-up for cooling. It would **** a bit because with no ducts, distribution would be anything but uniform with your layout.

Or, a stand-alone suspended unit heater and a mini-split ductless heat-pump set-up for heating & cooling. It would **** a bit because with no ducts, distribution would be anything but uniform with your layout.

Where you from so I can give you an idea of prices? And no, not trying to make a sale here.... ;)

Sent you a PM
 
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Jeepwx03

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Either a set-up like mine with section of duct c/w a couple adjustable-deflection grilles, an add-on evap and outdoor unit...hell, you could even go heat-pump and really save $$ on propane 'till temps get down to around +15 to +20*F. They're almost all rated to +10*F, but I find that this needlessly beats the **** outta the compressor.

Or, a stand-alone suspended unit heater and a mini-split ductless A/C set-up for cooling. It would **** a bit because with no ducts, distribution would be anything but uniform with your layout.

Or, a stand-alone suspended unit heater and a mini-split ductless heat-pump set-up for heating & cooling. It would **** a bit because with no ducts, distribution would be anything but uniform with your layout.

Where you from so I can give you an idea of prices? And no, not trying to make a sale here.... ;)
It will not let me respond to your PM.

We never get that cold. Average low in the wintwr's are in the low +20 degree range. Highs in the summer are in the low 90 degree range, but it's very humid.

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peter2772000

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My gawd, you're practically in Florida LOLOL

We get temps down to -40*F up here (no, not including wind-chill factor). Heat pump's your best bet unless propane for you guys is cheaper than electricity. Find out what your rate is with the electric utility company and I'll give you an idea which heating source to go with.

Up here in Quebec, we literally $hit electricity. One of the cheapest power sources in all of North America. Because we don't have nat. gas in my rural neighbourhood, I'm stuck with propane which is the 2nd most expensive after oil.
 
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Jeepwx03

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I haven't had to fill the propane tank yet, bit I own it so I can show around. I'm thinking it's about $1.50 a gallon. We pay about 7-8 cents a kW/h. I'd prefer to stick with propane, I had a heat pump before and didn't care for it much. Unless I could get propane as the aux heat, but I'm not sure how that would cost out, if even possible.

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Jeepwx03

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Also there are times we can get in the teens or single digits during the winter, it's just not average.

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Jackfre

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The simplest and best is a Rinnai EX38C. 13.2-38kbtu. For a decently built 750 sq ft that is more than enough. Put it next to the lift. Roll the tool box down the wall a couple feet and have the unit blow the air right across the face of the doors. You can get a short vent extension to get over that concrete pony wall and drill a 2.5" hole in the wall for the vent. Laying on a creeper with warm air blowing across the floor is sweet.
 

yeldogt

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I haven't had to fill the propane tank yet, bit I own it so I can show around. I'm thinking it's about $1.50 a gallon. We pay about 7-8 cents a kW/h. I'd prefer to stick with propane, I had a heat pump before and didn't care for it much. Unless I could get propane as the aux heat, but I'm not sure how that would cost out, if even possible.

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Thats cheap power -- heat pumps are great. Mine are spinning away.... it was 15 last night. In a more temperate climate with cheaper electric -- the HP may be the way to go ,,, do the simple calculation?

With a HP in a temperate climate -- you don't need the propane furnace and you get AC
 

SLOWER335

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Jan 18, 2014
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I'm looking into these Hot Dawg units and it looks like a great option for me. My garage is 28x32' with 10' ceilings. Is there a calculation to figure out which size unit would be appropriate for me?
 

Showkey

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Wausau WI
I'm looking into these Hot Dawg units and it looks like a great option for me. My garage is 28x32' with 10' ceilings. Is there a calculation to figure out which size unit would be appropriate for me?

This will get you in the ball park:

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peter2772000

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I haven't had to fill the propane tank yet, bit I own it so I can show around. I'm thinking it's about $1.50 a gallon. We pay about 7-8 cents a kW/h. I'd prefer to stick with propane, I had a heat pump before and didn't care for it much. Unless I could get propane as the aux heat, but I'm not sure how that would cost out, if even possible.

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Your electric rates are about 30% higher than ours if you factor in the exchange rate. Same with your propane with the exchange rate.
Don't dismiss heat pumps. I hated the damned things for the longest time (I don't own one and none of our techs did for the longest time), but they've come a long way in both efficiency and reliability.

My cost for a mini-split 24k BTU heat pump is around $3k CAN. Residential contractors prolly get an additional 10-15% discount. Install would be another $1k. You could prolly get a brand-name mini-split installed for around $3k US. If your temps generally don't drop down below the levels you stated, you'd be nuts for not going with a heat pump of some sort.
 
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Adk Mike

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upstate NY
Slower335. If you know somebody in HVAC they can do a heat lose on your building pretty fast. A lot depends on where you live climate wise. I like the Hot Dawg because it's over head and out of the way. In my climate you'd need an HD60.
The rinnai is also great just that it sits at floor level and you run the risk of it getting hit by something.
 

yeldogt

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Remember heat rises ... I have a sealed combustion cabinet unit (empire) it sits down low and I have it blowing along the coldest wall of the studio.

Be careful with sizing -- that table above is for a 60 degree rise.
 
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Jeepwx03

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Your electric rates are about 30% higher than ours if you factor in the exchange rate. Same with your propane with the exchange rate.
Don't dismiss heat pumps. I hated the damned things for the longest time (I don't own one and none of our techs did for the longest time), but they've come a long way in both efficiency and reliability.

My cost for a mini-split 24k BTU heat pump is around $3k CAN. Residential contractors prolly get an additional 10-15% discount. Install would be another $1k. You could prolly get a brand-name mini-split installed for around $3k US. If your temps generally don't drop down below the levels you stated, you'd be nuts for not going with a heat pump of some sort.

Do you think the Mini-split will work for the cubic feet of my space? I'm not expert, just seems like a lot of volume for one unit. What would be a good placement for it?
 

Falcon67

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Merkel, TX
It will not let me respond to your PM.

We never get that cold. Average low in the wintwr's are in the low +20 degree range. Highs in the summer are in the low 90 degree range, but it's very humid.

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Sounds like south Texas or Louisiana. You would do well to think more about AC than heat. I have a bitty 17K BTU electric for 960 sq/ft. Works well enough and does take a bit to warm the larger space. BUT - I have TWO AC units because it's nothing for the west outside wall temp here to be 130F in the summer. Cold, I can wear a ratty sweatshirt for a while until the heater catches up. Hot, I can only take off so much before taking a chance on getting something caught in the machinery. ;)

EDIt - besides, it's February here. It's going to be 78 today, will be 89 on Saturday. WTF.
 
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Jeepwx03

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Sounds like south Texas or Louisiana. You would do well to think more about AC than heat. I have a bitty 17K BTU electric for 960 sq/ft. Works well enough and does take a bit to warm the larger space. BUT - I have TWO AC units because it's nothing for the west outside wall temp here to be 130F in the summer. Cold, I can wear a ratty sweatshirt for a while until the heater catches up. Hot, I can only take off so much before taking a chance on getting something caught in the machinery. ;)

EDIt - besides, it's February here. It's going to be 78 today, will be 89 on Saturday. WTF.

I wish we had that kind of weather today. It only gets in the 90's an humid 2 months out of the year. July/August. May - Sept can see some hot days in the 80's.
 

Falcon67

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LOL, it's going to be near 90 here on Saturday. It's not even spring yet and already the west Texas temperature yo-yo has started. Half this week we've run the AC in the house.
 
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