Propane install - newbie

[dcg9381]

I think we're going to install a tankless water heater and small stove top at the shop. I've considered electric, but don't want the possible "high load" of running this silly "kitchen" stuff at once.

Someone fill me in on what I need in terms of a regular and "main" propane line.

My assumption is that I need a single stage regulator that supports the BTUs of my appliances. And I assume that main gas lines are still black steel pipe.


Do I need a type of manifold system (like PEX style, not PEX material) for distribution, or just "T" off of the main where I need things?

Note, I have the tools to do vacuum and pressure testing on anything I install.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Someone fill me in on what I need in terms of a regular and "main" propane line.

My assumption is that I need a single stage regulator that supports the BTUs of my appliances. And I assume that main gas lines are still black steel pipe.

Correct. Just get it "close" and then use the yellow flexible pipe to hook to the appliance

Do I need a type of manifold system (like PEX style, not PEX material) for distribution, or just "T" off of the main where I need things?

"T" is fine, but you need a gas approved 1/4 turn shut off at each "tap".

 

[dcg9381]

Thanks. Any advice on a regulator?
The yellow pipe - buy it pre-built with NPT ends?

 

[Jackfre]

Oversize the system. Once you have the gas in the building it is short money to haves one extra capacity. It gives you options for the unintended or "didn't think of that" type questions.

 

[TractorJeff]

My observation is "most" large supply tanks have a Regulator on them to lower the supply pressure down into the "couple of pounds" range. Once it gets to the building a second Regulator lowers it to the 12 to 14 inches of water column that will feed the appliances. Sizing Regulators is based on appliance usage. For example, you state "Stove and Hot Water Tank" which is fine, BUT in my opinion you should size the Regulators for these plus a later down the road "Heating Source".

 

[Adk Mike]

With a tankless water heater it’s important to have the correct size gas line on the unit. The Yellow CSST is fine. If you use that it needs to be grounded to the panel box to meet code. Read the Manuel . Anyway the stove top can tee right in with the water heater line. Gas line exits the building if the tank will be right there a twin stage regulator will be installed. If the tank is a long way away to meet code. Cellar windows etc. than one regulator goes on the house and one at the tank. Called a 2 stage system.
Get the btu load on the water heater and the distance to the outside and i’ll Tell you the pipe size. Do not undersize the piping to that unit. Mike

 

[dcg9381]

The CSST or the tankless heater (grounded)?

The tank will be very close to the building. Looking at a neighbors residence (not shop) - she's got a 200 lb propane tank - her regulator is on the tank itself, no regulator on the house. From regulator to residence, appears to be 1" copper.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I'm curious what the hot water is for at the shop?

If only for a sink, tankless may not be the best option.

If you're putting in a shower, on the other hand, I see why you might want one.

Back to the sink only option, for that, I'd probably be looking at one of those undersink electric water heaters.

Phil

 

[dcg9381]

Phil,
Good questions. Right now it's sink, washing machine, and dishwasher. Basically a functional kitchen and washer/dryer.

Shop (currently) has a 90A feed limit and most of the electric tankless water heaters I've seen that will do 3GPM are 60A or more.

I estimate that I need to heat (maximum) about 3GPM.


I did a little snooping around at the local hardware store today. It looks like propane is largely plumbed with "black iron" piping which is pretty simple stuff.


Basically, this is what I have spec'd:

• 100-200 lb propane tank
• Wortham 2-stage regulator (200k BTU support)
  [*]3-4 GPM tankless LP (Propane) water heater, use up to 80k BTU peak
• Propane Dryer, est 22k BTU

The only thing that appears to be wrong with this plan:
The regulator output size is "3/8 in. female pipe thread", @ 11 in. WC
Dryer connections seem to be 1/2 in
Water heater connection is 3/4 in

Assume my line are short, maybe 10-15' total. From what I can find LPGas Line Sizing it looks like a 3/8 line won't support 80K BTU, let alone 80+22K BTU... Not sure how a 200K BTU regulator can possibly do that much flow on a 3/8 output line?