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Proper oil for a wormdrive saw?

M

Modeler

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Hi all,

I have a Black & Decker 3051 type 5 worm drive circular saw I inherited from my father a few years ago. I remember he said I needed to keep oil in it, and I'd like to just go ahead and change the oil in it now. Any idea what oil to use and how much to put in? It's a 7 1/4" saw roughly the same size as a Skil 77.
 
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G_P

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I remember seeing "worm drive oil" in tool stores. Not sure if that's a requirement or not.
Its what I would use if I could find it.

Sent from my SPH-M920 using Tapatalk 2
 
R

rodm1

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I would think the Skil saw grease will work fine. I think it's only 000 grease maybe 00 or 0. They use 000 as chain saw sprocket grease and other stuff for Ag.

John Deere Corn Head Grease
 
S

skruft

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There should be a sight glass. Fill to the middle of that.
 
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rsanter

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You need to used the specified worm drive oil.
I believe I still have a tube of it left over from before my worm drive was stolen
Email me I could make you a deal on it

Bob
 
R

rlitman

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Solo said:
Skil has an oil for its saws. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002EVD9G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Solo
Click to expand...

It's around $5.50 at my local Home Depot.

rsanter said:
You need to used the specified worm drive oil.
Click to expand...

A worm gear is a worm gear. Either the gearcase is designed for grease, and you need a worm gear grease, or it has oil seals, and you need worm gear oil. Either would be made to deal with the sliding friction you get in a worm gear.

If oil came out, put the Skill oil in and call it a day.
 
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T

TwoInch

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skil specifies their oil only, and it is NOT 000 grease, and its not regular gear oil.


it is organic, and is mostly tallow oil(beef fat).

they specify an alternative oil for use in a pinch when you cant get the specified worm oil, i think it was a type of EP gear oil or something.

sears wipepd out their stock of skil oil a few months ago for $0.47... i bought a few.
 
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theknurl

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you folks are getting way too **** about this:lol_hitti

just use 90wt EP gear oil just like for manual transmissions and 3rd members:thumbup:

:beer:
 
C

CWP1616L

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I'd get a tube of Skil worm drive lube if it was me. I use it on my SkilSaw and I'd say it's an excellent lube.
 
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bob15

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rodm1 said:
I would think the Skil saw grease will work fine. I think it's only 000 grease maybe 00 or 0. They use 000 as chain saw sprocket grease and other stuff for Ag.

John Deere Corn Head Grease
Click to expand...

000 grease isn't used saw bar sprockets, either # 1 or 2 is used on saw bars.

Skil grease/oil is at home depot and it the proper stuff. Gear oil (90 weight) is the last thing you want to use, especially if you plan on using the saw in the winter.
 
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WWIIjeep

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theknurl said:
just use 90wt EP gear oil just like for manual transmissions and 3rd members:thumbup:

:beer:
Click to expand...

Worm drive saw oil has much higher tack and viscosity than SAE 90 gear oil. If you use SAE 90 gear oil in an old worm drive saw with aged oil seals, the outside of the gear case will very rapidly get covered with leaking gear oil. Even the Skil worm drive oil will leak through old seals, but far more slowly.

SAE 90 gear oil is approximately equivalent in viscosity to ISO 220.

Skil 80111 worm drive oil viscosity is ISO 460, which is approximately equivalent to SAE 140 gear oil and considerably higher in tack and viscosity than SAE 90/ISO 220 gear oil.

Ideally, you should use the manufacturer's recommended product, but if you don't want to pay the $20+ price B&D wants for their version of worm drive saw oil, the next best thing would be to use Skil 80111 worm drive saw oil.
 
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CWP1616L

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Does your B&D have an oil fill cap, or do you have to take it apart to lube it?
 
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CWP1616L

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Modeler said:
It has an oil fill cap on the forward end of the gearbox.
Click to expand...

Okay good, you'll find the Skil lube to be like a real thick syrupy brown liquid. They'll probably want you to fill it to the top of the hole with the saw sitting level. I put a little bit extra in mine because I wanted to have the hole level instead of the saw level.
 
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theknurl

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WWIIjeep;
so use 140 EP same VI as the Skil stuff

never liked Skil 77s anyway, a Milwaukee #6573 is twice the saw.
when i was framing......Skil 77s won't take cutting 1 1/8" stacked stair treads, my partner carried 4 Skil 77s so he would have one that worked:lol_hitti

yes,
the Skil 77 is lighter
has a spindle lock
has a rafter hook

but the skinny cord kills armatures

:beer:
 
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bob15

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theknurl said:
WWIIjeep;
so use 140 EP same VI as the Skil stuff

never liked Skil 77s anyway, a Milwaukee #6573 is twice the saw.
when i was framing......Skil 77s won't take cutting 1 1/8" stacked stair treads, my partner carried 4 Skil 77s so he would have one that worked:lol_hitti

yes,
the Skil 77 is lighter
has a spindle lock
has a rafter hook

but the skinny cord kills armatures

:beer:
Click to expand...

You have to put the blade on correctly and then the Skil will out cut Old Milwaukee everyday but Sunday. :beer:

The only trouble my Skil has had was 2" thick seasoned locust....but then again, what saw cuts that wood easily? Had to pre-drill to drive nails through it.
 
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CWP1616L

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theknurl said:
but the skinny cord kills armatures
Click to expand...

Okay, I've heard that before on a contractor forum. But they were saying that skinny extension cords is what was killing the armatures. I've been using a 100 ft. 14G extension cord with my Skil 77. Should I be using a 12G or 10G ? Which size cord at 50 ft. and which size cord at 100 ft. ?
 
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bob15

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theknurl

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bob15 said:
You have to put the blade on correctly and then the Skil will out cut Old Milwaukee everyday but Sunday. :beer:

The only trouble my Skil has had was 2" thick seasoned locust....but then again, what saw cuts that wood easily? Had to pre-drill to drive nails through it.
Click to expand...

the #6573 is a 16 amp saw not 15 amp and with a 10 ga cord it will swing a 9" blade cut down to 8 3/4" it will cut 3 pieces of 1 1/8" plywood at once.....the Skil 77 with a 7 1/4" would get hot on 2 layers

we were doing piece work, building stairs in 3 storey condos, 54 units at a time, I put a 100' 10 ga cord on it, that ran off 145' of 4 wire 8 ga from the pole

we used to race other crews for paychecks......"2 guys against you 5....we'll build more than half as many units in a week as you":thumbup:

we never lost :beer:

and that's hand nailed too:thumbup:
 
E

Eastern Washington

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I realize this is a late response to a very old thread. I have a B&D 3051 type 3 worm drive saw. The manual says to use B&D 60086 (replaced by 449562-01) worm drive grease. The 449562-01 is obsolete. The container also identifies the lube as "EP Gear Lube #8". Technically, AGMA (American Gear Manufacturers Association) gear lube #8-EP has an ISO of 680 and is specifically designed for use in worm gear applications. It is formulated to reduce friction between the sliding surfaces of the worm and gear teeth while being thick enough to not significantly leak through seals when the gear box is hot. Both Skill and Bosch have lubricants specifically designed for their worm drive saws. The Bosch lube is p/n BL8LB.
Do the following to properly fill the B&D 3051 gearbox. Clean all wood dust from around the fill plug. The plug is located at the front of the saw and on my type 3 is also the location of the blade lock. Lay the saw on its left side with the blade guard resting on the table. Using a 7/8" box end wrench, remove the fill plug and place the plug (laying flat) between the upper edge of the blade guard and the table. This will slightly elevate the saw so the blade is level with the table surface. The gearbox is full when the lube level is at the bottom of the fill plug threads. DO NOT overfill. If you do overfill, remove by pouring the excess out. Wipe the fill plug clean, check the condition of the small o-ring on the fill plug, apply some lube to the o-ring, then re-insert the plug into the gearbox and tighten. Replace the o-ring if damaged. It provides the seal preventing lube from seeping out of the gearbox.
 
W

WormDutyLuby

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I think I found a good substitute, given the cost on Amazon these days.
Product on Amazon I found
Spectro Performance Oils
Oil 75w140 GL-1, 1 Quart
 
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KnurledNut

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A tip for those that have never done it:
Warm the saw up first. Just like a car.
Making some aggressive cuts helps heat things up nicely.
If your super ****, it can be flushed with kerosene after draining, but not necessary.
Dont be surprised to see metal flake in your oil. Its typical wear.
And not that you would, but dont run wormdrives upside down for long periods. (I.E. makeshift tablesaw.)
 
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bob15

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WormDutyLuby

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Recently it has went down on Amazon I've noticed, and for other sites you still have to pay for shipping.
Canadian Tire carries some skilsaw products, but not the oil or any other accessories
 
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Pexto

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KnurledNut said:
And not that you would, but dont run wormdrives upside down for long periods. (I.E. makeshift tablesaw.)
Click to expand...

This is true! I killed a Skil 77 by running it upside down in one of those crappy Hirsch tables. I was a young carpenter at the time; working on a job building a big shopping mall, where one day I was shown a tall stack of 3/4" PT plywood and told to rip it into narrow strips for edging around some EPDM/foam roof system.

I told my foreman that we should rent a tablesaw, he agreed, went to talk to the super, and the super took off in his truck to rent a tablesaw. An hour later the cheap SOB came back with a saw table; a horrible flimsy thing you attached a circular saw to, upside down. He claimed it was just too expensive to rent a tablesaw and that this saw table would do just fine.

I clamped our Skil 77 into it and started ripping plywood. I kept having to stop to try and anchor the contraption better and beef it up; otherwise the strips I was ripping ended up banana-shaped. Eventually I drove a few 4-foot T-stakes to anchor the stupid thing and keep it from walking all over the place.

About half-way through the stack the saw gave out. I'm not sure exactly why, but it was quite hot, and something seized up. The saw never ran again; that stupid super had to run out and buy another one. Served him right! :beer:
 
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KnurledNut

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Pexto said:
This is true! I killed a Skil 77 by running it upside down in one of those crappy Hirsch tables. I was a young carpenter at the time; working on a job building a big shopping mall, where one day I was shown a tall stack of 3/4" PT plywood and told to rip it into narrow strips for edging around some EPDM/foam roof system.

I told my foreman that we should rent a tablesaw, he agreed, went to talk to the super, and the super took off in his truck to rent a tablesaw. An hour later the cheap SOB came back with a saw table; a horrible flimsy thing you attached a circular saw to, upside down. He claimed it was just too expensive to rent a tablesaw and that this saw table would do just fine.

I clamped our Skil 77 into it and started ripping plywood. I kept having to stop to try and anchor the contraption better and beef it up; otherwise the strips I was ripping ended up banana-shaped. Eventually I drove a few 4-foot T-stakes to anchor the stupid thing and keep it from walking all over the place.

About half-way through the stack the saw gave out. I'm not sure exactly why, but it was quite hot, and something seized up. The saw never ran again; that stupid super had to run out and buy another one. Served him right! :beer:
Click to expand...

I seriously laughed out loud at this.
:spit:
 
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Showkey

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Not sure what the romance with these worm drive saw is ???? Especially 8 years later we are still talking lube ?

Yes, 30-50 years ago they were the best thing going.........today not so much.
They big, heavy and awkward to handle one handed. Especially the old ones !!!!

I have two skill worm drives......they sit next to my corded sawsalls........that also never get used. Yes, I could see using them upside down would be a lubricant problem.

Give me a quality battery circle saw.........that’s light weight, decent power and great site line of the blade.
 
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