To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

proper stainless prep

that-guy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
603
Location
NoVA
been doing alot of aluminum work since i got my tig, now i want to do some stainless work. i tried on some 3" 304 with .065" wall with no prep and got very sugary welds. i always knew to clean aluminum very thoroughly, but didn't know it for stainless. is the process of cleaning the material the same or as maticulous as it is for aluminum???

right now for aluminum, i am using a stainless steel brush and Citriclean on a rag
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

that-guy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
603
Location
NoVA
i will be purging the backside when i do welding on actual pieces to be used, but this is just practice right now. the backside right now is all sugar and quite raised. the top side is somewhat concaved and is dark grey and black with no coloration like you would want to see on stainless

i shouldn't have much issue dialing in the machine, i am more concerned about proper stainless prep at the moment
 

K13

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2007
Messages
2,233
Location
St. Albert, AB Canada
I have never heard of any special prep for stainless and have never done it myself but I don't weld a lot of it so this will be interesting. I wipe it down with wax and grease remover to make sure it is not contaminated and have at it. DC using a 2% thoriated tungsten sharpened to point.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Seiler

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2013
Messages
81
Location
Colorado
For stainless you can wipe it with isopropyl alcohol or hit it with a scotchbrite wheel. Aluminum reacts with the atmosphere and creates a very thin very hard layer of Aluminum Oxide on the surface, and when you clean it/prep it/brush it you're removing that layer making it easier to weld. With today's technology and machines some people don't even both doing that anymore, they will simply raise the % of DC +.

If you're welding stainless tube, do yourself a favor and just back purge it. Whether it's practice or not, it's going to help with keeping everything constant when you have an actual important piece to weld. My $.02
 

steel 35

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
2,105
Location
Between the PNW and the Emerald Triangle
If your using a stainless brush and its clean, and not used on other things it should work; but this is what I was taught to use as a final touch the half round works great on the inside and the flat just touches the flat top and the outside just prior to fit up, and the purge if set right will certainly help with that concave. I am guessing 8" long and didn't guess on the rest! I did that before and I was wrong.
 

Attachments

  • File.JPG
    File.JPG
    111.6 KB · Views: 28

innealtoir

Banned
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
89
Location
New England
I wouldn't say that the cleaning process is the same for aluminum as it is for stainless, but certainly you should strive to make the same end result in either case. Aluminum is much more prone to contamination. With stainless there is really no need to do anything, but mechanically clean the the metal. (e.g. No chemical cleaners are required, but I also feel the same with aluminum.) Make sure that you clean ~1" or so on either side of the joint with a stainless wire wheel, flapper disc, or flapper wheel. Try to do that same on the backside of the joint. Eliminate any burrs or overly sharp edges. You shouldn't have much of a land on this where you are tig welding the joint, but a hair of a land would be good, imho.

If you are not using a purge gas when making a CJP weld on stainless you are not going to get a sound weld. It will pretty much ALWAYS sugar without the use of a purge gas, flux cored stainless steel GTAW (Tig) wire, or a product such as solar flux. You do not need to use a secondary shielding gas like you would with titanium, but you defiantly need something on the backside to displace the oxygen if it is a CJP weldment. If you are not going to use a purge gas on a CJP weld on stainless you should be putting the root pass in with a wire such as R316LT1-5 or similar. Just make sure you brush the slag off before going back to a cold solid wire for the rest of the passes.

What are you using for wire on the 304 and what are you using for tungsten?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
OP
T

that-guy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
603
Location
NoVA
over the weekend i had a v-band flange turned on a lathe, and gave a nice chamfer to a 90* piece of 304 stainless pipe and set a few tacks and had nice results. (will supply pics later) #10 cup, 15cfh, about 140amps (only for the tacks so i could give it a quick hot press of the pedal...probably around 60-70 amps when i draw a bead) 3/32 red tungsten, filler will eventually be 1/16 308L
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom