Proper way to plumb compressor

[boomer12831]

I am in the process of upgrading my air compressor from a Husky 5-HP, 26 gal tank, 6.6 cfm @40 psi, 5.8 cfm @ 90 psi, to a new Rolair 5-hp 60 gal tank, 18 cfm @ 40 psi, 16.4 cfm @ 90 psi. My question is that I have a flexible hydraulic hose that I made which goes from the compressor to an iron pipe which runs up the wall with an outlet. From there it runs across the ceiling with a tap that goes to a 50' retractable hose reel. From there it goes to the other side of the garage and down the wall with an outlet. My question is should I put a water separator near the compressor, or just hook the hose to the new one like I have now. Is there a guide to go by when you plumb a compressor ?
I have seen where people on this site have ran sections of pipe so it cools the air as it goes through the pipe. I wonder if this is necessary ? As always, thanks for the advice, Ed

 

[Bib Overalls]

As a very minimum you will need a drip leg at the end of your line. If you have a blast cabinet or do spray painting you will definitely need a drier. The attached diagram is a good reference. Note the adherence to the "up before down" principle and the drip leg/drain at every low point.

 

[01ss]

Thats way too complicated for the average DIYer. Way to over-think it. I have a simple system with two lines run, all soft for ease of placement and replacement. I have the compressor regulated at the tank, ball valve for shut-off, then it goes from 1 into 3 (1 being blocked off). One goes 8 feet over to a hose reel with 100 feet of rubber hose, the second uses a 50 foot hose to run up over and down, 35 feet away to a blast cabinet. The blast cabinet has its own shut off, water separator, and regulator. I drain the compressor daily and the cabinet rarely sees water in the catch, and the main line never enough to notice. I live where we have 100% humidity also.

 

[boomer12831]

Thanks Bib and 01. I can use some advice from each of you. I am handy enough to sweat pipe or run iron pipe which I now have. I just don't have a good system for eliminating water from my system. I thought I did a good job when I installed the hose reel and outlets a couple of years ago but I noticed I would get water (mist) when I used a blow gun. I drain the tank often and I would still get moisture. I do not have a blast cabinet (yet) but would like to get one in the future. It probably would be something that I would not use to often but I am planning for it. I never had a good regulator on my current compressor so with the new one I want it to be right. Thanks again for the advice, Ed.

 

[JoeFin]

I'm running Black Pipe for my shop.

I have a 3 Axis CNC Mill that uses pneumatic pressure for the automatic oiler and spindle lock. Also have an Automatic Surface Grinder that uses an Air/Coolant mixture on the grinding wheel. Both of these can run an All Day Demand on the air compressor.

I'm told its better to dry the air before going into the plumbing and use an automatic drain valve set onto a timer at the compressor

 

[amolaver]

the right way - at a basic level - is the right way, regardless of usage. 'bib overalls' diagram IS a basic setup. i would actually connect the 'circuit' so that it made a loop, but you will need one corner to be the low point (and to have the associated drip leg, which could also be a point-of-use). whether you add a refrigerated air dryer, craft your own passive cooler/dryer with a transmission cooler, or rely on the length of the run and a filter regulator at the point-of-use, that's up to you and your needs. if you're running tens-of-thousands of dollars worth of equipment (JoeFin), using a refrigerated dryer is probably an easy call; water damage to the equipment would far outweigh the cost of the dryer. that said, even an impact wrench will eventually die if regularly fed 'wet' air. using a blast cabinet is almost impossible with wet air - the nozzles just clog.

point being, if all you're doing is airing up tires, fine, run rubber hose and replace when necessary. anything other than that, taking the time to properly plan and execute the plumbing is an investment in a) your tools, and b) your work. if you don't want to, fine. but don't tell others its 'too complicated', 'overthought' or a waste of time..

ahm

 

[kesslerbmw]

You really want at least 25' (50' preferably) of line before any type of drier or water trap. It takes that amount of distance for the hot air to cool down and loose all of the condensation. You'll also want your line to be at a slight down hill at the least, so the water runs toward your water trap and not your compressor.

This is important if you plan on using it often, or for any type of painting. If you don't do this, make sure you oil your tools after each use to keep the moisture out of them.

 

[kbs2244]

This is how the pros suggest doing it.....

http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe.nsf/Page/Air+Piping+Layout

 

[Whiskeymike]

I have my AC air handler on the same wall as the compressor. It would be pretty easy to run my lines through the air duct work and add an extra section like a coil and then a filter on the other side. Would this be worth while and provide the benefits of the refrigerated filter without the cost?

 

[fxgmech]

...I noticed I would get water (mist) when I used a blow gun. I drain the tank often and I would still get moisture. ...

Assuming that happened during highly humid weather, it does not mean you had water in your compressed air or didn't do a good job on the system.
The local cooling at the blowgun tip can also condense water out of the surrounding air.
When that happens I watch the air flow off the tip and if it's only humidity there will be a gap between the blowgun tip and the little cloud that forms. When the water is coming out of the compressed air there's no gap, it sprays drops, and air motors run erratic.
A few of my blowguns have a brass tube at the outlet after the valve. If I use the blowgun long enough (when cleaning for a few minutes, for example) the tube cools down below the dew point and the humidity condenses on it like it was a cold drink in a can.

I don't do any painting or blasting, mainly just air impacts, ratchets, etc. I drain the compressor at the start and end of every shift.

 

[Gus68]

Not to hijack. But I was also planning on running black pipe up the wall, across the ceiling to a hose reel in the center of the ceiling. Would I need to continue the pipe across the ceiling and down the wall just to have a drain? I suppose I could put the drain right after the hose reel, but who wants to get out a step ladder all the time to drain it.

 

[JoeFin]

if you're running tens-of-thousands of dollars worth of equipment (JoeFin), using a refrigerated dryer is probably an easy call; water damage to the equipment would far outweigh the cost of the dryer. that said, even an impact wrench will eventually die if regularly fed 'wet' air. using a blast cabinet is almost impossible with wet air - the nozzles just clog.

ahm

I agree

But what I am exposed to mostly now are Desiccant Air Dryers at the source rather a drain on the end or low point

http://www.airdryers.com/products/d...RMABw&ef_id=UoyaXQAAAD9HLEHG:20131124143659:s

Additionally in my years I've seen a few air compressor tanks so full of water it was hard to believe. The old trick of leaving the Petcock on the bottom of the tank just slightly cranked as to be constantly ******* out any accumulated moisture wasn't passed down enough the old timers I guess

For this reason the Timer/Solenoid setup on the tank is good protection from accumulating a reservoir of liquid and rusting out your tank.