Proper Way to Use Ball Joint Separator

[hancock1701]

I was replacing the lower control arms on my 2003 Honda Accord this past weekend. I thought it would be fairly straightforward and quick, until something was messed up and had to spend the rest of the day fixing that.

I used a ball joint separator, the 3 prong press type, not the pickle fork. The first time I used it on the lower ball joint (which was on the knuckle), it compressed the bolt so much that the threads expanded and the hole (for the cotter pin) got smaller, which gave me trouble when putting the castle nut back on. And there was a really loud noise when the ball joint was separated.

The second time I put another nut (not the castle nut) back on flush with the bolt, then both pressed and hammered it.

I'm not a professional mechanic, so please school me on the proper way to use (or when not to use) that ball joint separator. Is the nut always required? Can the castle nut be used for that?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YVWHOE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[7echo]

Can you post a pic or link to the one you used?

For ball joints I use a 2 armed tool, not 3. They are more compact than the 3 arm ones, I use those for pulleys.

My mistake! I see you have a link to what you used.

 

[organ]

I think he's counting the screw as an arm...

 

[dclassical]

I think by 3 prongs he means the two that go on the ball joint and the end that the screw presses on.

I use the same kind and never had any problem (but I also have no rust to deal with). Maybe tap with a hammer where the ball joint goes through to help if it is really seized up.

The loud noise is normal.

 

[professaurus]

Yes, use a nut or the threads will mushroom. Some people suggest using a bungee cord through the gap on the tool so it doesn't fall when it pops loose. Also be cautious of what kind of suspension the vehicle has. A coil spring front end needs a jack under the lower control arm to keep tension on the spring so it doesn't pop out and hurt you.

 

[MGmachine]

Great question. Even most professional mechanics use this tool incorrectly. The tool is not designed to force the stud out of the knuckle. It will do this on some cars, but not the purpose.

The tool is designed to put pressure on the stud in the knuckle. While the pressure is applied hit the knuckle with a hammer or air hammer and it will relieve the press fit of the stud in the knuckle. If you try to force it out by impacting or tightening the tool it may break and harm you.

 

[sqaurelizard]

Great question. Even most professional mechanics use this tool incorrectly. The tool is not designed to force the stud out of the knuckle. It will do this on some cars, but not the purpose.

The tool is designed to put pressure on the stud in the knuckle. While the pressure is applied hit the knuckle with a hammer or air hammer and it will relieve the press fit of the stud in the knuckle. If you try to force it out by impacting or tightening the tool it may break and harm you.

As above unless u've got a very fresh car your going to destroy the threaded section long before the joint separates

 

[davidw]

I'm not a professional either, but I have done my fair share of suspension work on cars in PA (where rust is always a factor). I start soaking that stuff in penetrating fluid about a week before I do any work, or I am wasting time and breaking stuff. I also replace all hardware that I remove. A lot of suspension bolts are stretch bolts that are only to be used once. Since you said you were doing lower control arms, I am assuming that the ball joint is attached to the knuckle and you can't replace the bolt with the castle nut. In that case, I would either replace the ball joint, or be very careful not to distort the threaded shaft coming out of the ball jointly using the castle nut upside down. Also, make sure you don't put any stress on the rubber ball joint boot things. If you pinch one with the separator you are screwed.

Like others have said, the pop is normal. Usually I think I broke the separator when the ball joint lets go. Scares me every time!

 

[pjboy]

I had to cut my ball joint out to get lca out and took to shop with knuckle and hand them press them out 20 buck well worth the money time an d aggravation !ended up replacing all bushing since i had everthing dis assebled.battled it for hours wish i would have taken to shop to press everything out from get go. maybe this will help?

 

[davidw]

Great question. Even most professional mechanics use this tool incorrectly. The tool is not designed to force the stud out of the knuckle. It will do this on some cars, but not the purpose.

The tool is designed to put pressure on the stud in the knuckle. While the pressure is applied hit the knuckle with a hammer or air hammer and it will relieve the press fit of the stud in the knuckle. If you try to force it out by impacting or tightening the tool it may break and harm you.

Good tip. I will have to remember that! Besides the danger, it ***** having to go out in the middle of a project to buy a new tool because you busted the only one you have!

 

[exmaxima1]

I think by 3 prongs he means the two that go on the ball joint and the end that the screw presses on.

I use the same kind and never had any problem (but I also have no rust to deal with). Maybe tap with a hammer where the ball joint goes through to help if it is really seized up.

The loud noise is normal.

Yes, hammer the joint on the SIDE of the joint to relieve the taper fit.

 

[hotspaws]

try this when stuck , works almost every time on most of the hondas for the lower one
you need to take out the shock bolt and sometimes the swaybar/stabalizer link bolt so the arm moves freely. Just put something in the gap and press down



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[hancock1701]

Thanks for all the good tips and info. Next time when I have to use this I'll definitely be more confident. But that loud pop was really scary though, especially when I wasn't expecting it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

IN GENERAL ... loosen the nut enough that you an see daylight. Get out your BFH and go to now on the "thing that the bolt goes through". (Quote from Eric the Car Guy.) Never had it fail.

 

[WVBrady]

To add to what has been said, I was taught to use two hammers if possible, striking both sides at the same time. If this is not possible, I held a large sledgehammer against one side and hit the other side with another hammer.

 

[padroo]

Yes, tapered joints need to be shocked most of the time.

 

[minimowog]

not keen on the type of separator you're using, i prefer after removing the nut, to thread it back on (mainly to protect the thread from stray hits) and use my 3/4" round steel bar and lump hammer to shock it, you can hit either side of the upper/lower arm and its easy then trying to hold 2 hammers, and if that fails and it rarely does, i have a different separator which is a 2 pronged fork and you hit that with a hammer however that can be hard on the boot which is why its a last resort.

I've seen the separator you're using and i've thought it looks a bit weedy, plus i think i could break it or strip a thread, i use my method on tie/track rod ends as well and it seems reliable

 

[phikshin]

Did something similar a couple nights ago. I had to do lower control arm bushings on a civic. I used the same ball joint tool that you linked to. Seperated it the same way. Semi crushing the castle nut. One side I tightened it down and BANG arm seperated. The next side I had my impact on it and tightened and tightened and tightened. Did want to budge. I gave the bottom of the tool a good wallop with the hammer and BANG seperated.

 

[mdtaylorjr]

Most of us who do this professionally would not use this tool. Most of the time a few good shots with a hammer will separate them. Then of replacing the joint as well a hammer to knock it out of the hole. Always use a press to put them back in though.

 

[redmondjp]

+1 on using the hammer on the side.

But what about newer cars that have alloy spindles? I get really nervous about hammering on those in the same manner.

 

[mikeceli]

To add to what has been said, I was taught to use two hammers if possible, striking both sides at the same time. If this is not possible, I held a large sledgehammer against one side and hit the other side with another hammer.

Exactly as I was taught. The momentary distortion of the tapered fit, causes its release.