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Propress - Can you mix with torch

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mobiledynamics

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would not think twice about plumbing my entire house with press fittings if PEX wasn't an option.

If Pex wasn't a option. Do tell ?

Sure, I know pex handles a freeze better if a pipe was to freeze.
But given between CU, I'd prefer to at least have my potable water in CU feeds.
Enlighten me. Merit's of Pex over CU.Pex is pretty easy to install - that's for sure.
 
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snyder

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We just installed a minus 80 freezer building at my job. They used stainless piping with all pro press fittings for all the refrigerant and condensate lines. Pretty impressive.
 
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mobiledynamics

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As far as looks, you never see solder drips on pressed fittings.


This has been interesting thread seeing/hearing the pro's opinion on Press.....
I started another thread before I bought the tooling, and that other thread was more 50/50 on torch vs. press.


Renage's comment ...I dunno man. Torch is nice smooth piping.
Press is kinda like a rusty red run of EMT in my eyes.
 
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mobiledynamics

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Did I do this wrong.....

I dunno if soldered sink valves are done in commercial sites for job security but in my 1st house, in the kitchen sink.......

I got a stub out, 3 way off of it. On both ends as well, soldering 1/2x3/8 valves.
It was a b1tch of a job being careful with the millwork

And the simple answer I why I use solded, was I saw all the -pros- on the commercial sites doing it that way. Why 3 way. I've always wired up my dishwasher off the Hot tap, but in the event I wanted to do cold water feed (for the wine glass cycle) , then a cold tap was a option

5/8 Compression all the way for me these days.
 
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BD1

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We just installed a minus 80 freezer building at my job. They used stainless piping with all pro press fittings for all the refrigerant and condensate lines. Pretty impressive.


Are you saying that propress was used on hot gas, suction, and liquid refrigerant lines ? I'd like to know who has fittings rated for those pressures and what "O" material is compatible with refrigerant oil.


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mobiledynamics

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Jaws are about $250+ each . Jury still out or not ?

My hvac guy - old timer - is saying he is always fixing the installs done by the install crew - aka, they don’t braze but press all jobs.
 
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mobiledynamics

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Since BD1 made the post....might as well ask

SO, at least with the H20 applications, the o ring is what makes the seal and the crimp simply holds it in place.

For those in the know, is is same/similar or principle with Zoomlock and the only difference is 2 *presses/rings* per each end ?
 

brewchief

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Zoomlock has recently changed, it was made by RLS and sold under the zoomlock name, it will now be sold under the RLS name. Parker will still be selling fittings under the zoomlock name but they are different, they honestly look like regular propress fittings but appear to use a different jaw. The old zoomlock jaws don't look to work with the new fittings.

FWIW we use the the original zoomlock fittings on some stuff, we don't use it more because equipment manufacturers don't put stubs on most condensers or coils designed to be used with the zoomlock, if I have to braze a stub in to press to then why would I bother pressing? The zoomlock is very nice for making connections where you don't want to use a torch. I have found that by the time you do a very careful job of preparing the tube ends you spend about the same time at least on a simple residential job.

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BD1

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Avoiding a Nitrogen purge is a heck of a time saver. Granted , you can do multiple joints and a considerable piping run with Nitrogen, but avoiding it would be nice.
I wonder what happens to "O" when you have a compress burnout ?? Is flushing a issue ??


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LS6 Tommy

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Will ProPress work on hot water baseboard systems?

Nope. You need a sweat-to-press adapter. Hydronic system coils are usually VERY thin walled.
FWIW, I'll wait a little longer before I use press fittings for refrigeration runs. Seen and been told about too many leaks...


Tommy
 

brewchief

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Nope. You need a sweat-to-press adapter. Hydronic system coils are usually VERY thin walled.
FWIW, I'll wait a little longer before I use press fittings for refrigeration runs. Seen and been told about too many leaks...


Tommy
They do make an insert designed to reinforce the thin wall baseboard tube so you can use press fittings, I have never used them but after doing a couple whole house baseboard replacements and sweating everything an inch or fwo from finished walls and floors I would certainly give them a shot.

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LS6 Tommy

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They do make an insert designed to reinforce the thin wall baseboard tube so you can use press fittings, I have never used them but after doing a couple whole house baseboard replacements and sweating everything an inch or fwo from finished walls and floors I would certainly give them a shot.

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All the sweat work is done inside the baseboard housing. There's almost no way to damage the floor or wall if you're competent. Even if you drip solder all over, it's covered by the tin. Good luck getting a propress jaw in on some of the baseboard installs I've been on.:lol:

Tommy
 
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mobiledynamics

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this is where I use Pex in this application.Runtal baseboards that hang on a cleat on a wall. Pex off the pipe. 2 guys holding the baseboard. Pex - slip into fitting off the baseboard and hang....
 
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mobiledynamics

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Been thinking about the PP runs for a bathroom remodel

Traditionally for supply stops, it's either a drop ear (if I"m using a ******/decorative angle stop)

If I'm using a compression, it's normally elbow with pipe sticking out

With the PP and just how it's (mechanically joined), if doing CU stub outs, would it be -better- to use a preformed ----L---- copper stub out and just tie in the feeds to the stub outs. Since the ----L--- would be more ridgid than a 90 fitting ?

Thoughts or opinions
 

Jim greengo

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Looking at the run I'm about to modify. Plan on sweating where I have easy access. The not so easy access I'm pro pressing

Riddle me this as I was just thinking about it. Let's say you have a press fitting, whether it be a 90 Elbow or a Valve. You end up need to do a repair and maybe torch the coupler and such back on. It's too -close- to the press fitting.

Any concerns with heat in this scenario and it would be highly recommendable to stick with press due to O ring damage
Wrap a wet rag around the pro press fitting if you're worried about it.
Pro press would be an absolute last resort for me on anything,unless I couldn't get the water to shut down and needed to replace a valve.
 

Jim greengo

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Almost made a rookie mistake. I shut the main.......and had cutters in hand ready to go gung ho. Passed by the laundry room and said, let me see if the main really closes it in full ;-) Luckily it does

That should have been the 1st thing I should have done after shutting down the main regardless.

Imagine if it didn't and I was about to cut.
Yeah,that would have sucked!:spit:
 

Jim greengo

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Simply put, the only plumbers I see still sweating are the diehards, and I guess there's nothing wrong with that. But I would not think twice about plumbing my entire house with press fittings if PEX wasn't an option.

so i guess no young whippersnappers do service and repair plumbing[/QUOTE]

Exactly
 

Jim greengo

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I'm not a plumber . Just a Joe and Not a Pro. A joe that happens to have the tooling

I must be a DinoSaur. Cause I was really under the impression sweat was superior if given the same install......more long term, looks cleaner when you walk into the mechanical room, etc Kinda like how I look at weld jobs and look at the work, I do the same when I look at the mechanical room - the runs, the consistency of the connections, etc[/QUOTE

FYI the press fittings & pipe both have a 50 year warranty, most public works here in NY spec pressed fittings. The only time the torch comes out is when we have to braze any 4" or 6", otherwise everything is pressed. As far as looks, you never see solder drips on pressed fittings.
You'll never see solder drips on any of my sweated. Joints either.:dunno::lol:
 

Jim greengo

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Last and final question....I hope

I still prefer hard pipe for bathroom/exposed fixtures. I like it -it's a nicer aesthetic to me.

Kitchen/Utility/Cabinets 5/8 Compression 1 Way, 2 Way Dahl Valves for me

Am I a DinoSaur for liking hard piped ******* and cast brass shutoffs/p traps for exposed applications. They don't make nice heavy chrome shutoffs in ball though - just a regular stem . Is this still somewhat of a plumbing norm
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

hilld

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Thx for the sharpie tip. I wasn't planing to do the sharpie just for aesthetics. Have seen lots of videos saying one should reference mark it. Your post sums up why now....cause it may have the potential to want to shift as you press

What if you use a silver or gold sharpie. You can still see the line, but it will be a lot less noticeable than the black one. I have not tried either one to see how visible it might be, just a thought.
 
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mobiledynamics

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I was short a fitting so picked up a Nibco@homers (all I've used is the Viega fittings).

What's up with the O-Ring in their press fittings. While I wouldn't call it ribbed, but it's not flat on it's profile. There are little -nubs/flaps- that seem to be in alternating sequence on this thing. When I looked at it from afar, I thought it was a damaged O-Ring, seeing material, then a space, then material. Upon further inspection if not the other one, it is by design. Looks very -dry- compared to the Viega, in which u can definately see some lube on it.
 

brewchief

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I was short a fitting so picked up a Nibco@homers (all I've used is the Viega fittings).

What's up with the O-Ring in their press fittings. While I wouldn't call it ribbed, but it's not flat on it's profile. There are little -nubs/flaps- that seem to be in alternating sequence on this thing. When I looked at it from afar, I thought it was a damaged O-Ring, seeing material, then a space, then material. Upon further inspection if not the other one, it is by design. Looks very -dry- compared to the Viega, in which u can definately see some lube on it.
They are designed to not seal if not pressed, if you don't press one it will either fail air test or leak water, prevents a fitting from being pushed in place and not pressed and then getting buried in a wall because it sealed and passed an air test.

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mobiledynamics

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BC -

Now u got me planning to see how the (not pressed leak indication) is with the Viega.

I cannot remember if I started a post in this or made a seperate thread - re: NSF Silicone as added measure when pressing. A call to Viega said do not put anything. With the said, these Nibo's don't appear to be -pre lubed- vs. the Viega's. Granted there is grey area answers to these things on whether a ounce of extra preventative measure vs not. Regardless, the O Rings on these Nibcos for sure is different. It's a O Ring with -ribs- on them :eyecrazy:
 
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