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Protecting framing plates from water

DOHC427

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Nov 29, 2017
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I was thinking of caulking it with silicone caulking, but wanted to see what other ideas you have. We don't get much snow so there won't be a lot of water in this building.
 
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ConCretin

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Personally I wouldn't do anything at this point. The plate is PT and if the amount of water you expect to have is minimal once the structure is closed in, I don't see an issue. 'Floating' the floor is likely to create more problems than it solves.
 

LXCam

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I wouldn't worry about it either. If you plan on drywalling it I would make certain you gauge the rock off the floor a solid 1/2" though.
 

v8only

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depends where you live.

if you live in the snow belt and will be bringing in vehicles full of snow and snowmobiles etc. like i do you will have water problems. Where i am from if you are smart you put a concrete pinned curb atop the slab and stick frame above the curb. In my case I have a 8" wide and 8" tall curb all the way around my garage slab and the bottom 2x6 sill is anchored direct into the curb.

If you arent to far into the framing and this is a concern to you i would put a concrete curb on your slab.
 
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spudley

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depends where you live.

if you live in the snow belt and will be bringing in vehicles full of snow and snowmobiles etc. like i do you will have water problems. Where i am from if you are smart you put a concrete pinned curb atop the slab and stick frame above the curb. In my case I have a 8" wide and 8" tall curb all the way around my garage slab and the bottom 2x6 sill is anchored direct into the curb.

If you arent to far into the framing and this is a concern to you i would put a concrete curb on your slab.

Probably too late for a curb. Only a sloped slab or a really good crew would eliminate all low spots and puddling. A curb just keeps the framing dry, but you've used pt on the plate anyway so unless it's constantly saturated you're OK.
Once the roof is on most of the puddling will be forgotten. Rain leaves more water on the slab than you'll get from snow melt, but I'd keep a squeegee on hand.
 

NUTTSGT

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Probably too late for a curb. Only a sloped slab or a really good crew would eliminate all low spots and puddling. A curb just keeps the framing dry, but you've used pt on the plate anyway so unless it's constantly saturated you're OK.
Once the roof is on most of the puddling will be forgotten. Rain leaves more water on the slab than you'll get from snow melt, but I'd keep a squeegee on hand.

Maybe too late for a concrete curb but the framing could be unbolted from the slab and a course of block put down. That would prevent further issues with water and the framing.

I'd be curious to see the rest of the build and if an apron, porch or sidewalk was poured at the same time as the garage floor.
 

red

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Hudson Valley, NY
Maybe too late for a concrete curb but the framing could be unbolted from the slab and a course of block put down. That would prevent further issues with water and the framing.

I'd be curious to see the rest of the build and if an apron, porch or sidewalk was poured at the same time as the garage floor.

Had the same discussion with my mason when building my garage. He wanted to leave it with the framing at floor level. I wanted to have at least two or three rows of block above grade cause every "old" garage at ground/grade level had rot from dirt or snow.

So I agree with NUTTSGT.
At the minimum you could laid solid 4" block and attach framing to that or better yet go two rows of regular 8" block above floor level and never worry about rot.

BTW after the mason left I laid 3 more rows of block, he wasn't surprised when he came back to pour the floor . . .
 

Marctrees

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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
Pools that depth are unfortunately common on slabs.

Once the building is enclosed, if it is not used for parking snowy vehicles, etc as said above, you will be fine.

Marc
 
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