Proto tool box restoration

[theadobesmurf]

I picked up a proto tool box, that has been sitting in my grandparents barn for some odd years. It was purchased in the mid 70's a picture should be attached. All the drawers and mechanisms work, I am going to remove the rust and paint it with rustoleum.

Any tips on the process for a first timer, I am leaning towards Electrolysis but we be difficult in the inside of the box?

Only the large drawer has rust, and the bottom of the chest in the "cabinet" section. Will post more pictures soon

 

[don long]

Yep
That looks like a good 1st project.
I think that a power sander like a D.A. would be in order to work this one over

 

[FJ 432]

Start by buying aircraft stripper from a auto parts store like Oreillys. Spread with a cheap paint brush. The paint should come up easy. Then using a orbital sander. Wire wheels for corners. Good luck.

 

[SweetD]

Yes I would agree with FJ in that you can get that paint starting to strip with a chemical stripper, then sand it and wire wheels.

Really would need a big electrolysis tank for that thing. Great tool chest. And welcome to the forum!

Dave

P.S. - Don't strip the badge, remove it and replace when done!

 

[theadobesmurf]

Thanks for the responses I dont want to do it all in electrolysis maybe the bottom of the cabinet and last drawer

 

[ZRX61]

If the paint is anything like the absolute **** MAC used back then, the easiest way to remove it is to just wipe it off with rags and lacquer thinner.

 

[altersaddle]

Depending on how badly it's rusted, I would use either evapo-rust or mechanical methods (sander, wire wheel) to clean that up.

Electrolysis works great to remove rust but takes a lot of time. It's perfectly adequate for small jobs like hand tools but could take weeks or months to remove all the rust on a toolbox.

You would also need to submerge the part / box in a bath and let the electrolysis work. With Evapo-Rust you also need to submerge the part, but you can use saran wrap to hold the chemical against the rusty metal for large pieces.

If the door is badly pitted or full of holes, you should instead replace it with new sheet metal - probably won't be that expensive in the long run. You might also be able to find a donor box with a door.

My Dad has a very similar vintage Proto box (80% sure it's a Proto, only identifier so far is a Model 9956 sticker in the top drawer). Has the same handles as yours.

Also, this thread has a few photos of what looks like the same box.

 

[Bellaireroad]

I picked up a proto tool box, that has been sitting in my grandparents barn for some odd years. It was purchased in the mid 70's a picture should be attached. All the drawers and mechanisms work, I am going to remove the rust and paint it with rustoleum.



Any tips on the process for a first timer, I am leaning towards Electrolysis but we be difficult in the inside of the box?



Only the large drawer has rust, and the bottom of the chest in the "cabinet" section. Will post more pictures soon

The box looks great, and the flag even better !



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[theadobesmurf]

Photos more in detail

Edit: no holes extra rust holes there are a few small ones in the lid and in the bottom but can tell those are from the factory. Also no large or small dents.

 

[ZRX61]

If the bottom inside the cabinet is essentially sound, I'd just remove the lose **** & give it a coat of hammertone & then flip it over & do the same on the outside.

 

[theadobesmurf]

If the bottom inside the cabinet is essentially sound, I'd just remove the lose **** & give it a coat of hammertone & then flip it over & do the same on the outside.

Thats my kind of thought for the whole thing, including the inside. Get any loose stuff remove loose paint then prime and paint with rustoleum.

 

[countryroad82]

I'm with Don, hit it with a DA and 40 grit and let the rust and paint fly!

 

[ZRX61]

Thats my kind of thought for the whole thing, including the inside. Get any loose stuff remove loose paint then prime and paint with rustoleum.

I've used hammertone & put light coats on the outside, it came out like regular metallic.

 

[Jim Pelosi]

First post here! I just finished restoring an old Huot box from 1968 that was in the same exact condition as yours. I stripped the paint with Goof-Off Stripper and went at the rust with a 4" poly-carbide wheel from Harbor Freight in my die-grinder. Then I used Naval Jelly, multiple applications over 3 hours. Scrubbed with some coarse scotch bright and rinsed with hot water from a garden hose. Dry immediately with rags and compressed air.
Then I filled all the rust pits with Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. Let dry 1/2 hour and block sand "dry" with 180 grit paper. Cleaned with solvent and primed with Rustoleum Self-Etching Primer. After 2 hours I primed two heavy coats with Rustoleum Filler Primer. After drying overnight I "dry" sanded (no block) with 800 grit paper to pick any lint or dust out of the primer and smooth any pitted areas.
Wiped with cheese cloth (damp with water) to get any sanding dust off and gave it a good blow the air nozzle. Next I painted 4 coats of Rustoleum Hammer Finish paint. I used silver for the drawers and light blue for the cabinet. (Had to order the light blue over the net as it's not sold locally in NJ.) Just make sure you read the directions on the can for the re-coat times. First coat looks awful, second coat looks better, third coat looks sweet.
Then I polished the hardware with a rag wheel and emery compound on my angle grinder to get the rust and scratches out. Wish I had pics here at work but I don't want to hi-jack your thread anymore than I have.
Also, remember that rattle can paint takes a minimum of 45 days to harden depending on temp and humidity. I'll start putting tools in my box at the end of January.
Good luck,
Jim

 

[theadobesmurf]

How should i remove some of the rust from the handles, White vinegar bath? they are a little small to sand. Also what about the badge? should i just rinse it and see what comes off theres very slight rust and some grime.

 

[zkling]

Fine steel wool and oil.

 

[CJDave]

Is it important to keep the original drawer pulls? I just replaced the pulls on a mid 60's MBC set. The new ones are almost identical to the originals that were badly rusted. 2 3/4" hole spacing. I even re-used the original screws. $1.59 each online at The Knobs Company in Arkansas I think. Had them in 4 or 5 days. They seem to be similar if not identical to yours. Good luck. CJDave.

 

[Richie Rich]

I would clean it, hit the rusty areas with CLR and a green scrub pad.
Use some spray in bedliner or some pretty close matching paint on the inside of the drawers and bottom of cabinet.

Cut a rubber mat to fit the top,replace all the pulls, buff out what paint is left (maybe wetsand and clear it. Add some period correct stickers and have a patina/rat box.

That look works pretty well on some old cars, might not look too bad on an old box.

 

[Tynee]

OP, did you ever finish this project up? I just picked up a top box that appears to be roughly the same vintage. I'm looking to flip it, but trying to decide if I want to restore or just clean up.

How did your end up looking? What kind of time did you have in it?

 

[jmarkwolf]

I've got the top tool cabinet for that same lower.

I bought it new in 1974-75 timeframe. Same handles, same color, been using it until quite recently, still in very good shape, just wear from normal light usage.

Had it on the Classifieds on this forum for awhile. There wasn't any interest.