Prow gable framing.

[Firebrick43]

Setting trusses this morning. I am doing 24" gables with 2x6 outlooks over a gable truss face nailed and bracketed to the first real truss. Wall is flat and building is 28' wide with cantilevered trusses,2' one side and 3' the other. I would like to do a slight prow on the gable over hang. 18" eave to 24" ridge. My thought is to make the outlooks slightly long and snap a chalk line on top. Use a square to draw a plumb line on the outboard face and using a miter gauge set my saw angle and cut the outlooks. Nail the facia 2x6 on and bobs your uncle.

Is this correct? I have seen some pics that look like the facia is plumb and some look like its tilted in but pics can be decieving. If it's tilted in the compound cuts just might be past my patience level and time constraints.

Thank you

 

[JDMcG]

That idea sounds like it would work well.

I suppose you could also get the top and bottom done then run a string. Set the string 1" away so it doesn't touch as you add the centers. Measure each remaining piece, subtract an inch, and have the guy on the ground cut it on the chop saw.

I'm wondering if 6" is a big enough difference from top to bottom. If it is too little then it might be visible, but look like a mistake instead of an intentional feature. Might want to mock it or do a scaled sketch.




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[bczygan]

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K. I. S. S.

 

[readhead]

Keep it plumb. When you get down to the eaves it will be easier to turn the corner. Six inches isn't much. It might look like a mistake. Set the top and bottom and cut to a string as mentioned. Much safer than hanging out to cut after the fact.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Standard framing practice is to cut your 45° miter on the 'run' (fascia that is attached to the truss tails) Next, measure and mark your 18" from the short point of the miter then hang (install) that piece with your 18" mark at the outside of the gable end truss tail.
Next, cut a ridge block (should be next size smaller that the fascia, ie, 2X6 fascia = 2X4 ridge block) at 24" and install it. Next, snap a chalk line from the short point of the 'run' fascia to the end of the ridge block. Next, cut the outlookers. Lastly, measure the 'Barge' fascia at the gable truss,ie, **** the installed run fascia and measure to the center point of the truss top chord. This ensures that the barge will be the correct length. How did you know I have an Uncle Bob?

 

[RocketScott]

I think your plan is good Firebrick.

Even if you are putting in a ridge block I would do some math and figure out what the measurement should be at the top outlook and make sure it is as square as possible. Make sure your gable is plumb and straight too. If you are doing open soffit and sheeting the overhangs with different material than the body it would be best to sheet the body before cutting the outlooks.

I typically run the barge past the fascia to cap the end of the gutter. That's just a preference though as it can be done either way. I'd keep all the trim vertical though.

Normally I use a worm drive saw with the blade on the left side when I'm framing. When I get to the roof I keep a sidewinder with the blade on the right side in the truck. For some cuts, like what you will be doing, it's much easier to do when the saw tilts the right way.

 

[Firebrick43]

Thank you guys. The more I thought about it the more I though some of you guys were right and 6" was not enough. So I didn't do it. Still framed a 24" gable overhang with 2x6 outlooks over a gable truss. Evidently it's not done a lot around here. The framers that helped me set trusses and sheath the roof had never done it before even though the frame custom midrange homes. The just frame a ladder and screw it on???