PSA - ARTU USA Drill Bits ****

[gdocktor3]

Working in a hospital, we order most of our stuff through Grainger. The other day, two of our electricians each ordered a set of these ARTU USA drill bits. We have good USA made HSS bits in our shop, but they wanted a set in a case to carry around in their tool bags. So these came in and immediately we knew they were gonna be junk. They claimed to work on any material from plastic to wood to steel and cement. These things wouldn't drill through a piece of sheet metal. Complete junk. Plus they're made in China out of European materials. Just though I'd let everyone know to stay away. Just look at the picture and you can tell they're a joke. Drill metal and wood with masonry bits...

Here's the link to them. Although we don't look at the price when ordering and get a discount, $45 is a lot of money. You'd think for that much they'd work. Unfortunately they didn't read the specs and only saw the USA on the package. Sort of like Neiko Tools USA. Tricksters. https://m.grainger.com/product/38A2...6757!&ef_id=VFEAtgAAAF1@BDfZ:20160707122432:s

 

[pendragon1998]

I had the complete opposite experience. I was trying to drill a hole through a hardened, chromed, tool steel part (a set of crescent wrench jaws). I tried several HSS and carbide tipped drills and barely made a divot. As a last resort, I bought an ARTU bit and it shot through the jaws like melted butter. I couldn't be happier.

The multipurpose bits have listed uses for cast iron and hardened steel, but sheet metal goods arent listed as applications, and mild steel is explicitly listed as not suitable (they recommend their cobalt bits for mild steel), so maybe there lies your problem.

 

[maxpower_hd]

Pendragon, were they the same bits or just the same brand. My guess is the "all in one" bit just isn't up to the task. Possibly their single use bits are better? Just a thought. I haven't had luck with anything that claims to be all in one or multi anything.

 

[gdocktor3]

Wow I'm actually shocked to read that.

 

[maxpower_hd]

The photo answered my question. I couldn't see the photo it when I first read it.

 

[B_Bimmer]

[/QUOTE]

That is an impressive picture. If I know it's hardened I generally try to find any other way than drilling because it's so unsuccessful. Do you think it would go through a broken tap?, or a grade 8 bolt? I may need an emergency selection of these...

 

[woody 73]

I never like it when someone gives a thumbs down then everyone avoids the product, while I sometimes do it (sears swivel seats pure junk) others come along and say how they love them!

At one time those bits were top notch and made in the USA, then I think they made them in Germany (I think that was the case?); and now being made in China.

Not sure just how far they dropped in quality over these many years???

 

[gdocktor3]

I mean I wasn't the one using them, but I saw it with my own eyes and it barely even removed the paint from the surface. I just don't see how bits with masonry tips can be used for drilling steel?

 

[woody 73]

I mean I wasn't the one using them, but I saw it with my own eyes and it barely even removed the paint from the surface. I just don't see how bits with masonry tips can be used for drilling steel?

You got to be careful readers might be thinking you used them when in fact you were just watching someone use them...

The old ones I had did cut through hardened steel.

 

[pendragon1998]

I mean I wasn't the one using them, but I saw it with my own eyes and it barely even removed the paint from the surface. I just don't see how bits with masonry tips can be used for drilling steel?

All I did was center punch and zip it through with a hand drill. I gave it more speed than I thought appropriate, based on an online suggestion. I did grind through the chrome first on the side I started the hole on.

 

[pendragon1998]

That is an impressive picture. If I know it's hardened I generally try to find any other way than drilling because it's so unsuccessful. Do you think it would go through a broken tap?, or a grade 8 bolt? I may need an emergency selection of these...[/QUOTE]

I haven't tried it, but it would not surprise me.

 

[gdocktor3]

Here's the picture of the "hole." Just so we're clear, this was performed by a 230 pound, very experienced, 40 year old electrician with a Milwaukee 18v fuel hammer drill.

 

[gdocktor3]

Here's pic from the side to show you how thin it is. You can see it is two thin pieces of metal. And he was trying for a good 30 seconds until the other electrician said "ok they're junk, that should go through like butter." I mean seriously, I've used 20 year old wood bits that can drill through thin **** like that.

Mind you, this is just my/our experience with them and my/our opinions. They make work better for masonry. What it comes down to is $45 for 5 of these drill bits, or a larger 10 piece +/- set of Milwaukee multi purpose bits for $20-30. I'll stick with what I know works.

 

[T45]

I'm not sure that technique isn't to blame in some of these results. Just make sure to always check the materials of each part when drilling. Some weaker metals like aluminum are a complete pain in the *** to drill, as a well known example.

I also wouldn't be blown away by drilling into a crescent style wrench. Tool steel really varies by heat-treatment and quality--HRC can vary from 35 to 50. Because a tool does HRC 35 it will do HRC 45-50 is a bit of a leap. I've never felt inexpensive wrenches were particulary hardened and most testing seems to agree.

Taps and other stuff as someone asked above can be much much harder HRC. Heck even grade 12 bolt is alot harder than regular bolts if you've ever tried to cut threads on one, not all tap/die toolsteel is even up to the task.

Just keep those grains of salt in mind.

 

[gdocktor3]

Come on now. Seriously. It was a solid, pretty well built rolling tool cabinet and you can see where he drilled, it was in the corner. There was no flexing. Also it wasn't on the hammer setting. Straight drill.