Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)

[555]

I had the same carbs on a Tattersfield dual carb intake for a Chevy 235/6. The whole thing (intake and carbs) were given to me by an old hot rodder in the early 70s. I ran it on my 53 Chevy pickup until I did a engine swap to a 394 Olds. I have no idea where it went.

 

[PugetDude]

Hmmm... Dual carb setup might be an option.... AFTER I get it running. That will be a fun manifold to build. Should be able to get two good carbs out of the six I bought on eBay.

 

[WoodsTruck]

There was a kit back in the day to run a Holley 2-barrel like that on a VW. They sold it as a "Bug Spray" carb. There were two models, a 160 cfm and a 200 cfm. We could get the 200 it run but it was too big for the 1600cc engine so we found a 160 but we were missing a linkage piece to make it run.

 

[senlow]

Im a rank amateur at this, but if the engine is 1.5L, but only pulls air on every other stroke (intake), wouldn't the max volume be closer to 146 CFM?

You may be a rank amateur, but you are 100% right. I stand corrected.

 

[PugetDude]

Took a break from the carburetor issues and knocked out a quick repair on my neighbor's 16' flatbed trailer. I noticed it had a couple of broken deck boards when I borrowed it to haul the '32 back down the mountain, and another one pretty rough shape.

Picked up (3) 16' 2x8's and a box of #12 x 2-3/4" (allegedly)self drilling teks screws at Agent Orange.
The deck boards were fun to install under the framing on each end. Cut them to 191-3/4" and put a 1/2" chamfer on one end. I slid the flat end under the frame at the back and then clamped the chamfered end on top of the framing at the front of the trailer. Then used my engine hoist and a nylon strap to lift each board in the center enough for the chamfered end to drop beneath the frame channel at the front. Tightened the clamps as I went until they were flush with the adjacent deck boards, then released the tension on the engine hoist. They slid in place with a nice satisfying "thunk". Both ends captivated, no way they are going to come back up.
Marked and pre-drilled 11/64" holes, the self drillers weren't up to the heavy frame channel, they wanted to burn up the drill point before they punched through. Used a full box of (40) screws, also added a few on the other boards where they had come loose over time. ( Only one screw in the middle of each board from the manufacturer, I used two.)
Done for now. I'll probably end up replacing the rest of the boards at some point in the future. Too many other projects going on to spend any more time on this one now.

 

[steves_001]

Nice idea on using the hoist to bend the board in place. Never thought about that but yeah, I suppose it needs to be to capture the ends.

 

[zmotorsports]

Seeing the board replacement reminded me of when I refurbished my old Big Tex car hauler flatbed many years ago.

After stripping it down completely and sandblasting, then welding a spare tire mount and a few other accessories on it, I painted it a single stage urethane black and all new wiring and lights. The last item was installing new deck boards and they installed in a similar manner, under the lip at each end. I used the same technique by clamping them down at each end using some steel tubing, and then a bottle jack in the middle to get enough clearance for the ends to engage under the lips.

Scared the hell out of me and I didn't want my son or wife anywhere around it while I installed all the deck boards. I told myself had I been thinking I would have cut the front lip off prior to painting and made the front removable and bolt it down after the boards were laid in place. That job made me nervous as hell.

Glad it went well for you without issue. The engine hoist was a great idea.

 

[Jgaz]

The removable front lip is how we modified our trailers that were used for vehicle tow testing at the desert proving grounds where I worked.
I do like the engine hoist though

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I redecked a trailer exactly one time.....F that noise! We used blocks under the planks to bend them, and then knocked them out. I like the hoist idea.

 

[Old Man Roger]

What am I missing? Why not just take a piece of the angle iron off? Or even just make the boards in 2 pieces?

 

[PugetDude]

What am I missing? Why not just take a piece of the angle iron off? Or even just make the boards in 2 pieces?

This is how they come from the manufacturer. No cutting, welding, grinding or painting required to install new boards. (And a full-length board is stronger than a splice.)

 

[Old Man Roger]

This is how they come from the manufacturer. No cutting, welding, grinding or painting required to install new boards. (And a full-length board is stronger than a splice.)

I don’t think the board would be any weaker, the joint would be on a cross member.

 

[PugetDude]

I redecked a trailer exactly one time.....F that noise! We used blocks under the planks to bend them, and then knocked them out. I like the hoist idea.

Had just enough room to get the lifting strap out with the 3 boards installed and pushed to one side. Evened out the gaps with a pry bar as I was screwing them down.
The hoist and my big welding clamps made this a painless install. Easy to control, Never felt like something was going to bite me in the *** any second. Wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

 

[PugetDude]

I don’t think the board would be any weaker, the joint would be on a cross member.

The splice acts like a hinge. Not as strong as a full length board.
Maybe one of the resident GJ structural engineers can weigh in with a more scientific explanation.

 

[LXCam]

Had just enough room to get the lifting strap out with the 3 boards installed and pushed to one side. Evened out the gaps with a pry bar as I was screwing them down.
The hoist and my big welding clamps made this a painless install. Easy to control, nothing ever felt like it was going to bite me in the *** any second. Wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

Awesome. Now I know where to go to repair my 10ft trailer.


Obviously I’m a lazy puke. I was planning on cutting of the rear angle off then soaking the **** out of the wood and welding it back on.

 

[Old Man Roger]

The splice acts like a hinge. Not as strong as a full length board.
Maybe one of the resident GJ structural engineers can weigh in with a more scientific explanation.

Ya, I didn’t think of it that way. I was just considering weight right on the splice, not in front or behind it.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Awesome. Now I know where to go to repair my 10ft trailer.


Obviously I’m a lazy puke. I was planning on cutting of the rear angle off then soaking the **** out of the wood and welding it back on.

That’s what I was thinking. Although I probably wouldn’t have thought of soaking the wood till it started smoking..lol

 

[PugetDude]

Awesome. Now I know where to go to repair my 10ft trailer.


Obviously I’m a lazy puke. I was planning on cutting of the rear angle off then soaking the **** out of the wood and welding it back on.

Drop it off the next time you're out this way. Happy to help. If we can't get enough flex out of a 10' board we can always cut and weld. Then you can take it up to @TimeWarpF100 's place for one of Randy's Concours de' Elegance quality paint jobs,,,

 

[WoodsTruck]

What is the preferred method if the trailer is lighter than the board is strong?
Tie the hoist down to the bottom of the trailer before lifting?

 

[PugetDude]

What is the preferred method if the trailer is lighter than the board is strong?
Tie the hoist down to the bottom of the trailer before lifting?

Guess I could throw a chain around the legs on the engine hoist and the trailer frame if that happened.
Or add a few pounds to the trailer... Cross that bridge if and when I come to it, I suppose.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Drop it off the next time you're out this way. Happy to help. If we can't get enough flex out of a 10' board we can always cut and weld. Then you can take it up to @TimeWarpF100 's place for one of Randy's Concours de' Elegance quality paint jobs,,,

Why not…

 

[PugetDude]

Why not…

Cuz you can't even get all yer own **** dun, dats why.

 

[PugetDude]

Well, it's Friday and a new month here on the Arizona campus of the North Florida Safety Skool.
Had a piece of 2" square tube slide off the weld table, tried to grab it but a raw edge got me first.
Very minor gash on the top of the finger, but I wanted to post a picture of the duct tape I used to cover the butterfly bandages so I can keep working.

@readhead asked me if I used diamond plate on every one of my projects, I am able to confirm that I did indeed incorporate some here.

Project pics to follow.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Cuz you can't even get all yer own **** dun, dats why.

You might be surprised how much **** i get dun dropped per day. 5x avg. so full of it much to get dun. Work progress another matter…

 

[PugetDude]

You might be surprised how much **** i get dun dropped per day. 5x avg. so full of it much to get dun. Work progress another matter…

Check your computer, Randy. It looks like AI chatbots are posting under your name.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Check your computer, Randy. It looks like AI chatbots are posting under your name.

I was worried he may have had a stroke.

 

[shortykorte]

I stay at a Holiday Inn Express Friday so I’m going with smaller jets.

Or a 6 carb Valkyrie engine or supercharged Valkyrie engine.

 

[PugetDude]

I stay at a Holiday Inn Express Friday so I’m going with smaller jets.

Or a 6 carb Valkyrie engine or supercharged Valkyrie engine.

Smaller jets (30-35-40) arrived from China yesterday. 3 sets for $10, delivered.
Still hard to believe that they weren't available here in the US.
Finishing up another fab project, then back on the '32.

 

[PugetDude]

Also thinking the exhaust backfire may be related to the PAIR valve (CA emissions that pumps air into the exhaust.) I guess time will tell.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Also thinking the exhaust backfire may be related to the PAIR valve (CA emissions that pumps air into the exhaust.) I guess time will tell.

Read up on pair mod. It creates a vacuum in the crankcase at low rpm and increases low rpm torque. On some bikes it was as simple as leaving the pair valve plugged in, but rerouting the hoses. Others you could remove the pair valve, but then you had to jump the wires.

 

[PugetDude]

Read up on pair mod. It creates a vacuum in the crankcase at low rpm and increases low rpm torque. On some bikes it was as simple as leaving the pair valve plugged in, but rerouting the hoses. Others you could remove the pair valve, but then you had to jump the wires.

Link to the article on re-routing the hoses?

 

[Old Man Roger]

Link to the article on re-routing the hoses?

Sorry, no link. This was from memory from like 20 years ago. It’s a well known mod for race and stunt bikes, you should be able to easily find info on it with a simple google search. Some bikes have a type of reed valve, others just use electronic valves, some use both. You are clearly mechanically inclined, I’m sure with very little research you will figure out which system your bike engine has.

If memory serves, my old 636 had the reed/electronic type. The reeds were left in place but the electronic valve was disconnected from the hoses, but left plugged in to fool the computer. There was a t fitting in place of the electronic valve that allowed a vacuum to be created in the crank case, thanks to the reed valves.

Now some people simply block the whole system off, I preferred to take advantage of the vacuum in the crank cases. It was a noticeable difference in low end torque in low rpm’s.

 

[LXCam]

The pair mod eh?, well ain’t that a peach.

 

[inphx]

Does this help? https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/air-shot-pair-valve-removal.595386/ or

 

[PugetDude]

Does this help? https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/air-shot-pair-valve-removal.595386/ or

Good explanation of how it works but not how to re-route the hoses. Really don't want to tear the top off the engine to remove and plug all the ports until I know that disabling it solves the problem.

 

[Old Man Roger]

I was getting ready for bed and remembered how I routed the hoses. On my 636, I removed the plastic pair valve and replaced it with a T. The T goes between the two ports that cover the reed valves on top of the head, now here is where the magic happens lol. You reroute the hose that used to go to the air box and connect it directly with the crankcase breather. Block off the holes left in the air box, now, thanks to the reed valves, there will be the same vacuum in the crankcase, but not going through the air box.

For this reason, some call it a clean air mod.

 

[Old Man Roger]

So basically the exhaust is creating a vacuum in the crankcase, the reed valves only allow flow in one direction. If your pair valve is vacuum operated, simply remove the plastic valve, and block off that vacuum line, if it’s electric, you can leave the pair valve plugged in, but remove the hoses from it.

 

[PugetDude]

I was getting ready for bed and remembered how I routed the hoses. On my 636, I removed the plastic pair valve and replaced it with a T. The T goes between the two ports that cover the reed valves on top of the head, now here is where the magic happens lol. You reroute the hose that used to go to the air box and connect it directly with the crankcase breather. Block off the holes left in the air box, now, thanks to the reed valves, there will be the same vacuum in the crankcase, but not going through the air box.

For this reason, some call it a clean air mod.

I already tried connecting the two hoses attached to the air box (vent and intake) but it made the backfire worse.
The PAIR valve was still attached, though; thinking I might have to do a bypass like you suggest to see any real improvement. Also, connecting them with a small plenum rather than directly might help.
Outsmarting all those Honda Engineers, the CARB, and the EPA is proving to be a bit harder than I thought.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Whether it fixes your problem or not, the mod, as described, is tried and true for performance. Other people use block off plates and just run a small air filter on their crank case vent tube.

 

[555]

Check those jets for size. I got a package of 10 new jets from China. All were supposed to be the same size. Four were the correct size, the other 6 were either bigger or smaller. The bigger jets went into a baggy with the correct size noted. I drilled the smaller jets to the correct size.