Pull a pitman arm with a gear puller?

[johnny1290]

OK so I'm broke and trying to do more with less, anybody heard that before? What I'm trying to do is swap a volvo steering box for the stocker in my ford, and to do that I have to remove the steering arms from both boxes, and put the ford one on the volvo box(after slight modification). I also have to disconnect the stock pitman arm from the centerlink tapered shaft? I dunno looks like a tierod end type thing to me.

So can I use the BFH approach to the centerlink? I'm wondering if it'll mess anything up, but the more I think about it the more I suspect I'd have to hit it with a dumptruck to bend that thing. It's suspended on teh opposite side by a idler or pitman arm bolted to the frame, FWIW, if that makes a difference.

MY big question is: can I use one 2 jaw puller to yank both the pitman arms and possibly the centerlink tapered rod? I just don't have the dough for a full puller kit right now, or I'd get snapon off ebay if I did.

I have a HF air hammer and could get a pickle fork attachment from sears, I just have torn rubber boots with those before and don't think my hammer is powerful enough.

Also FWIW I can't imagine I'll use these again anytime soon, never say never of course.

Is a 3 arm puller more desireable than a 2 arm? Would it work better in this application? (I have plenty of room). Do I need an installer of some type or can I just slide the pitman arms/tie rod end back on and just tighten to spec? Here's what I'm looking at:

5 ton, forged Craftsman

5 and 7 ton forged, up to 6 1/2" reach

OTC mentioned in another thread

 

[bluesman2a]

Check your local auto-parts store. Many have loan-a-tool programs with pitman arm or TRE pullers. Worst case, I think the last one I bought at a parts store was only about $10-20, and it has worked on some BADly stuck, BIG offroad stuff over 30 years old.

 

[lsrx101]

To separate the tapered center link ends, remove the nut then thread it back on a few threads, put pressure on the center link with a prybar and smack the casting around the taper sharply with a hammer inline with the pitman arm/idler arm. They usually pop right loose on the second swing. Leaving the nut on will prevent it from falling and clobbering you. This works good with tie rod ends and ball joints too. I haven't used a tie rod end press or pickle fork in years.

For the pitman arm at the gear box, you really need the correct puller. Even with that, heat and a big hammer are sometimes needed. Sometimes they pull right off, but other times harsh measures are required. You just never know until you get in there. Many "chain" parts stores will lend you the correct tool for a refundable deposit.
I've never has good luck with the 2 jaw type, like your third pic. This type is much better IMHO: http://tinyurl.com/ypdpec I think I saw one like that on the tool rental list at my local AutoZone.

Good Luck

 

[Merkava_4]

They've got a good tool rental program at AutoZone; I've rented strut spring compressors from them on many occasions. They have a chart with pictures of the different tools they rent; you just point to the picture of the tool you want and the kid goes in the back room and gets it. Don't expect them to know what the tool is by name; you've got to point to the picture.

The rental fee is the cost of the tool; so if you don't bring it back, it's yours.

 

[zj96sc]

always use the right tools for the job.

go buy a tie rod end puller and pitman arm puller. you can get both at any chain auto parts place for about 30 bucks total. The pitman arm puller is a must have. Getting the TRE's loose can be done a few different ways.

I've also used a pickle fork and BFH with success, but as you mentioned the chances of tearing a boot are high. Also hitting the pitman arm around the taper will sometimes work. the hammer deflects the arm's taper just enough to let the TRE come loose.

PB blaster is your friend. apply once or twice a day before you start.

vatozone also has a good tool rental program, as mentioned. they carry both TRE and pitman arm pullers.

 

[russlaferrera]

I use IRX101 s approach. Has not failed me yet. I don't use it on a pitman arm spline end. You need a puller for that.

 

[JohnZ]

Typical gear pullers hardly ever work on pitman arms - you need a solid forged pitman arm puller. I've had these for years - the larger one fits GM pitman arms, and the smaller one fits tie rod ends. Pops them right off.

 

[12gauge]

if you do decide to buy one, get a forged one. I have broken a 20$ cast one.

 

[johnny1290]

thanks you guys!

I can't believe it, but autobone actually had the pullers in stock and they're not broken or stripped it doesn't seem.

Hopefully I'll get lucky and not have too too much hassle getting them off!

I'm going to try on the box I have outside the car first to get a feel for how to do it.

 

[clarkandrew45]

always use the right tools for the job.

go buy a tie rod end puller and pitman arm puller. you can get both at any chain auto parts place for about 30 bucks total. The pitman arm puller is a must have. Getting the TRE's loose can be done a few different ways.

I've also used a pickle fork and BFH with success, but as you mentioned the chances of tearing a boot are high. Also hitting the around the taper will sometimes work. the hammer deflects the arm's taper just enough to let the TRE come loose.

PB blaster is your friend. apply once or twice a day before you start.

vatozone also has a good tool rental program, as mentioned. they carry both TRE and pitman arm pullers.

Yes i know i am replying to a 2years old thread, but im a just trying my luck. I am on search for some rental tools, do you have this vatozone site? or any contact info from them? I need TRE.

 

[timewarp]

Yes i know i am replying to a 2years old thread, but im a just trying my luck. I am on search for some rental tools, do you have this vatozone site? or any contact info from them? I need TRE.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/

 

[srmofo]

Where are you located?

 

[54FordPanel]

They have those front end kits pretty cheap at HF. When I did the front end on my daughters Grand Cherokee, there would have been no way in hell I could have taken the tie rods, ball joints, pitman arms etc apart without the proper tools.

I wanted to kiss this thing when I was done using it.....
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6985-tool-aid-61900.aspx

 

[Gary S]

For the pitman arm at the gear box, you really need the correct puller. Even with that, heat and a big hammer are sometimes needed. Sometimes they pull right off, but other times harsh measures are required. You just never know until you get in there.
Good Luck

That has been my experience too. I have a pitman puller and it does a great job........most of the time. A few years back, I encountered one that I couldn't pull with the puller, heat, a hammer, and everything I owned. That one got cut in half with an angle grinder to remove it because nothing else would work without damaging the steering box.

 

[Rick98Z]

I've had good luck with our local autozone and the tool rental program. Deposit for the the amount of replacing the tool on your CC then full refund when you return it. All the tools I have used have always been in really great shape too! Nothing like having the right tool for the job...

 

[lilredex]

After wasting my time with so called pitman arm pullers, I made this from junk around the shop. That has a captured nut running on 7/8" fine thread rod. You can see that repairs have been made along the way, but it has never failed to deliver, and with no heat.

It is sized to work on both Mopar boxes and SAGINAW boxes that find their way on to Mopar trucks.

 

[Bender78]

That has been my experience too. I have a pitman puller and it does a great job........most of the time. A few years back, I encountered one that I couldn't pull with the puller, heat, a hammer, and everything I owned. That one got cut in half with an angle grinder to remove it because nothing else would work without damaging the steering box.

Yup, I had the same experience when I removed the pitman arm on my Corvette. 32 years mated to the splined shaft and it wasn't giving up without a battle. After breaking two pitman arm pullers, I finally jigged the steering box up on my 12 ton press. Even then the press stalled without breaking the arm loose. It took some time with the load applied, more heat and a good whack from a BFH to finally finish the job.

 

[harvero]

Yup, I had the same experience when I removed the pitman arm on my Corvette. 32 years mated to the splined shaft and it wasn't giving up without a battle. After breaking two pitman arm pullers, I finally jigged the steering box up on my 12 ton press. Even then the press stalled without breaking the arm loose. It took some time with the load applied, more heat and a good whack from a BFH to finally finish the job.

I replace the pitman arm on my 2000 blazer last winter. I had to use my press get if off too. It took some heavy pumps on my 20 ton press to do it. I had a few other across the years that I've had to resort to using press because the puller just would not do it.