Pull-Down Stairs-12'

[red vette mike]

I am building a 1770' garage. It has 12' ceiling height. I am having a roof truss system built for it. These trusses are to be installed on 24" centers. I will have a good deal of available attic space. There is a pull down set of stairs available (84 Lumber is the vendor). They advise that you need a rough openning of 25 1/2" to install these steps. Do you folks think that the trusses in this one location only could be moved to accomidate this openning? Thanks for any help.
Mike

 

[NHCharger]

Not a problem. Many times I've had to move a roof or floor truss to accomadate a chimney. You can alway run ladder blocking every 2' if your concerned about going greater than 24" O.C.

 

[Moosedog]

Seems wierd that it would want 25 1/2 opening. Should be fine moving a truss only problem is where you roof sheets and sheetrock break. I would shop around I got a very nice roof ladder that fit perfect with 2' centers.

 

[mleichtle]

We allow our trusses to be shifted 2" max, but our software usually passes them shifted up to 6".

 

[CruZer]

Measure the stair kit that you want to install.I'll bet they will fit in a 24" opening. I bought a set that said 25 1/2 opening and they fit right in between my 24" on center trusses.I boxed in the trusses and installed the stairs inside the box.

 

[red vette mike]

CruZer: Good deal-I will try that. The Hispanic framing crew (who can really go!) said they could do something to make it work. I am sure, however, that I don't need to cut any of the roof trusses. Right?
Mike

 

[boiler7904]

CruZer: Good deal-I will try that. The Hispanic framing crew (who can really go!) said they could do something to make it work. I am sure, however, that I don't need to cut any of the roof trusses. Right?
Mike

At work, I deal with wood trusses all of the time in commercial applications (70' and over clear spans) where we need to make changes after the trusses are set.

If (when) you come across a situation where you need to move a web member or change a chord member, the truss company will re-engineer the entire truss to avoid a failure. There may be a small fee for this service but it is well worth it. They may even offer to send a crew to your site to make the necessary changes for you.

DO NOT FIELD MODIFY TRUSSES without approved field modification drawings from the truss supplier. Every piece of a truss carries a different type of load that needs to be compensated for if pieces are cut or removed. Removing one little piece of wood (or fasteners) can cause catostrophic failure of a roof system. Trusses don't usually come down individually. There is typically a domino effect.

One more thing to think about; if you (or your contractor) have field modified a truss in any way without new engineering drawings and the truss(es) fails, you will not have a legal claim against the manufacturer.

It's also not worth the risk of personal injury to save a few bucks.

 

[red vette mike]

At work, I deal with wood trusses all of the time in commercial applications (70' and over clear spans) where we need to make changes after the trusses are set.

If (when) you come across a situation where you need to move a web member or change a chord member, the truss company will re-engineer the entire truss to avoid a failure. There may be a small fee for this service but it is well worth it. They may even offer to send a crew to your site to make the necessary changes for you.

DO NOT FIELD MODIFY TRUSSES without approved field modification drawings from the truss supplier. Every piece of a truss carries a different type of load that needs to be compensated for if pieces are cut or removed. Removing one little piece of wood (or fasteners) can cause catostrophic failure of a roof system. Trusses don't usually come down individually. There is typically a domino effect.

One more thing to think about; if you (or your contractor) have field modified a truss in any way without new engineering drawings and the truss(es) fails, you will not have a legal claim against the manufacturer.

It's also not worth the risk of personal injury to save a few bucks.

Boiler: Thanks much for your words of caution. I am not going to touch the trusses.
Mike

 

[boiler7904]

Boiler: Thanks much for your words of caution. I am not going to touch the trusses.
Mike

No problem. Since I've seen truss failures before first hand, I get a little leary when someone says that want to start cutting trusses.

 

[logical]

The only reasonably priced 12 footer I have been able to find is the Werner alluminum and it takes a 66 x 25 rough. I built a frame out of 2x12's that extends below the ceiling. I have a 12'7" height and needed to come down anyhow to avoid using a platform under the ladder.

My trusses have 2x8 bottom chords, I nailed/glued/bolted 2x12 to the outside of two of them, with 7.25 inches below the ceiling, the short sides of the frame are 2x8. I used regular stair tread stock to add a step at the bottom of the chords to get me from top of ladder to attic floor level.

 

[red vette mike]

My truss system is in and each is on a 24" center. Any staairs I have looked at want a 25+ rough openning. I wonder if I might put in a vertical ladder (I have one interior wall in the garage) that would give me access to the attic. I then could cut another hole in the ceiling and have some sort of pulley system to get stuff up to the attic? I know from experience that it is pretty tough getting items up my pulldown stairs even with an 8' ceiling height. Any thoughts on that idea?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Big Ern]

I am getting ready to frame my garage and talked to the truss manufacturers about attic access. They are able to provde essentially a doubled up truss that one vender specs at allowing a 4' spacing and another vendor specifies as allowing a 3' spacing. Either will work for attic access and have the engineering data to support the approved spacing. The number of trusses and cost remains the same, but 2 are used to make the super truss.