The winds out here snapped off part of my fence yesterday. Had 7 4x4 posts snap off right above the concrete, which is basically at ground level. So I'll need to fix it soon. I'm going to go with 3 or 4 inch steel posts for my gate posts, and either 6x6 wood or 2 3/8 steel for the other 5 posts. But first, I need to get the old concrete out of the ground. I have access to a skid steer, but no wood to wrap chains around and pull. What are my options? Can I put some giant lag bolts down the wood and use them to pull? Do I just need to dig? I'd really like the concrete to basically pull straight up and reuse the existing holes.
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Pulling concrete post bases
- Thread starter Skooterj
- Start date
Bad Habit
Well-known member
One way to find out....
finn
Well-known member
Get the shovel out, then dig down a foot or more and wrap the chain.
Maybe saturate the area around the concrete with water.
Maybe saturate the area around the concrete with water.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Use the skid steer to push the concrete from a corner. You should be able to create a gap on the sides enough to lower the chain in. Same on the opposite corner.
Uncle murph
Well-known member
I doubt it’s more than a bag or two,the corner on the bucket should pop them right out.The winds out here snapped off part of my fence yesterday. Had 7 4x4 posts snap off right above the concrete, which is basically at ground level. So I'll need to fix it soon. I'm going to go with 3 or 4 inch steel posts for my gate posts, and either 6x6 wood or 2 3/8 steel for the other 5 posts. But first, I need to get the old concrete out of the ground. I have access to a skid steer, but no wood to wrap chains around and pull. What are my options? Can I put some giant lag bolts down the wood and use them to pull? Do I just need to dig? I'd really like the concrete to basically pull straight up and reuse the existing holes.
This^^^^^^I doubt it’s more than a bag or two,the corner on the bucket should pop them right out.
JimH74
Well-known member
Yep. This is what I had to do in a similar situation.Easiest: try a long lag and a chain
Most likely: dig around top of concrete, wrap chain at ground level
Codyboy
Well-known member
A lag bolt directly in the center of the wood should work.
We would remove broken off, rotted off poles at ground level by driving a ground rod straight in the center of the ****. Put a wire pulling grip on it and pull it out with the boom truck winch.
The key is to pull it straight out, no side pulling.
And these weren't small poles. We've pulled H1 class pole butts using this method.
We would remove broken off, rotted off poles at ground level by driving a ground rod straight in the center of the ****. Put a wire pulling grip on it and pull it out with the boom truck winch.
The key is to pull it straight out, no side pulling.
And these weren't small poles. We've pulled H1 class pole butts using this method.
larry4406
Well-known member
When you put your new posts back in, don't full encapsulate the end of the post in concrete.
Pour concrete around the post but not the bottom.
This is likely why your posts rotted out.
Pour concrete around the post but not the bottom.
This is likely why your posts rotted out.
jimkinney
Well-known member
This also.Easiest: try a long lag and a chain
Most likely: dig around top of concrete, wrap chain at ground level
I use the biggest/longest carbide drill bit around the concrete to loosen some of the dirt. Don't have to dig as big of a hole. Here in FL, yard is all sand and I use a shopvac as my favorite digging tool.
I don't have access to skid steer, but found using a floor jack and extra 4x4 (horizontal) to lift and break the base free. Then use a chain hoist hanging from a ladder to pull it out.
I have found that using gravel instead of concrete keeps the posts from rotting as fast here. Water table is only a few feet, sometimes inches below ground.
You could also use the bucket to push/pull the concrete back and forth in an attempt to rock it and loosen it up. This may allow it to pull out easier.
I tore out a fence because of broken posts. I was able to dig down 6 to 12 inches around the concrete, wrap an chain around the concrete, lay the chain over an old car rim and pull up the slugs with my pickup. It wasn't that difficult. I suspect a skid steer would make it easier.
I had a couple of posts break last year in a storm. Rather than do the wood in ground again I dug out the wood about 12" down and set post anchors into non shrinking grout. Mounted post to it and all is good.
When others fail in the future this is my plan for all of them.
Digging out the concrete didn't make sense just to refill the same hole with concrete again. I already earned that merit badge when I built the fence in the first place.
When others fail in the future this is my plan for all of them.
Digging out the concrete didn't make sense just to refill the same hole with concrete again. I already earned that merit badge when I built the fence in the first place.
strength_and_power
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2015
- Messages
- 1,393
I’d try the lag bolt in the middle first but I’d also stack the deck in my favor and soak the area around the concrete
Lag bolt in the middle will probably just pull out of the wood.
If you have access to forks for the skidsteer, that will be better than the bucket. You can stick the fork down and flip the lump of concrete out.
The skidsteer will tear up your yard/grass. If you care about it, lay down some plywood sheets under the tires/tracks
If you have access to forks for the skidsteer, that will be better than the bucket. You can stick the fork down and flip the lump of concrete out.
The skidsteer will tear up your yard/grass. If you care about it, lay down some plywood sheets under the tires/tracks
CraigStu
Well-known member
6yrs ago I had an extra bay added to a garage. We had to remove about 16ft of fence. I was talking to the contractor about installing 2 new posts after the garage was done. He said near the same except his recommendation is just use the dirt you dug out to make the hole. And TAMP the heck out of it all around the post as you fill it in. Same theory as larry4406 says. Water is going to get to the post. No way to stop that. The fix is to let it get away from the post. Concrete but w/o a bottom, gravel, tamped dirt all work.I have found that using gravel instead of concrete keeps the posts from rotting as fast here. Water table is only a few feet, sometimes inches below ground.
The posts didn't rot out. They were only about 5 years old and still solid. We just had that much wind.When you put your new posts back in, don't full encapsulate the end of the post in concrete.
Pour concrete around the post but not the bottom.
This is likely why your posts rotted out.
6x6 posts would double the post area for increased strength. Treat the buried ends of the new posts with Black Beauty(?) post paint a day before planting them. Maybe even a 2nd coat. Check Tractor Supply web site for exact product.
How's your arms?
I've seem the pros use these and have done so myself. The post usually goes through the concrete, so it splits it from top to bottom. Remove in 3 or 4 pieces with minimal disruption to surrounding soil. Depends oh how much concrete was used.
Or rent a jackhammer
I've seem the pros use these and have done so myself. The post usually goes through the concrete, so it splits it from top to bottom. Remove in 3 or 4 pieces with minimal disruption to surrounding soil. Depends oh how much concrete was used.
Or rent a jackhammer
the concrete is likely why they broke in a wind storm, regardless of whether they'd rotted first or not. The post gets pushed over, and the concrete doesn't move, concentrating the force on the post where it enters the concrete. No concrete, and the ground probably moves when the post pushes on it. Fence may get blown over, but the posts don't break. It's often possible to pull the fence back upright.When you put your new posts back in, don't full encapsulate the end of the post in concrete.
Pour concrete around the post but not the bottom.
This is likely why your posts rotted out.
Sure, but then the fence will be bowed and crooked, literally all of the time, from even mild winds and wet soil.the concrete is likely why they broke in a wind storm, regardless of whether they'd rotted first or not. The post gets pushed over, and the concrete doesn't move, concentrating the force on the post where it enters the concrete. No concrete, and the ground probably moves when the post pushes on it. Fence may get blown over, but the posts don't break. It's often possible to pull the fence back upright.