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Punch and chisel sets - Snap On vs Matco, etc.

md21722

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I have been looking at building out my punch and chisel set. Originally I thought the Snap On and Matco ones were all rebranded Mayhew, so I bought the Matco 25 piece set when it was on sale.

Looking at Matco punches and chisels, they LOOK similar to Snap On ones. The stamping looks identical to me except the brand and part number changes.

One difference I noticed is that the Snap On's have a "parabolic head" whereas the Matco ones are "flat head".

The other difference I noticed is that the Matco pin punches have long hex shanks and shorter points/edges. The Snap On ones are pretty much the opposite, they have shorter hex shanks and longer points/edges.

Are there other differences in the heat treatment that would further affect the durability?
 
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T45

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Take a look at the mayhew 150 series, those and the snap ons are better than any other design, according to many. Both use the parabolic head shape. the 150s are about 10/per piece and the snap on are 20/per at retail, about 10/per used/like new. (AFIK snap on are not relabels, but many apparently thought they were relabled 150s, so this shows up a lot).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKN7LG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

the best budget-friendly pro-quality punches are new about 6-8/each and include PB Swiss and Mayhew Pro (not Mayhew Select, which is DIY grade). and other truck brand relabels

A bit cheaper, but till very good quality, look at Wilde and relabels like SK, i think these are 4-5/per piece.
 
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md21722

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Yeah, I kept on reading and saw the Mayhew 150 advertise the parabolic head. I have Snap On oval bearing punches and they are a parabolic head also. I guess the Matco ones are generally out of the Pro line.
 
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Fedwrench

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I have always viewed punches and chisels as consumables so, I look for durable but, not too expensive. Wilde and Proto have served me well. :beer:
 

T45

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Are the general Matco sets out of the Pro or Select line?

The truck relabels should all be mayhew PRO, the select stuff is sold in home depot and big box stores for like 2-3/piece.

Mayhew pro and Proto are very very good tools, and like the PB swiss but maybe a minor step below the 150 and the snap ons.

The snap-on geometry (overall shape) is definitely different, with longer tapers more like drift punches almost. This is good if you have a snap-on guy who will warranty them out (more slender), as punches as noted above are essentially consumables, and get used for all sorts ad-hoc uses which can shorten their lifespan.
 

shawndp

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Toronto, ON
I reluctantly bought the Snap On set but the first time I used them I was thoroughly impressed - if you consider the time they save you over your first few jobs the premium you pay for them is covered.
 

T45

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Are the MAC ones Mayhew 150 also?

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Wamsutta

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According to Snap-on customer service, they make all their own punches and chisels; parabolic head punches and chisels too. Myself, Mayhew works good for me for a lot less money, although I'd like to try a Wilde sometime.
 

cliftonbros89

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I have a variety. I have some Wilde, Snap On, Matco, and Craftsman (WF). I've been pretty satisfied with the Wilde I have. As far as things like roll pin punches go I have Snap On, I'm not for sure if they're rebranded or not. I have both Snap On and Matco bearing race punches. They're exactly the same. I think they may be Mayhew. Craftsman can be ok. Smaller punches tend to bend though.


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1982fxr

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I got a few snap on punches in a used toolbox I bought.

Daaaaammmnnnn they are awesome punches!
 

Firebrick43

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Take those bent small pin punches and cut them off square. (About where the color end on the PB Swiss shown above). Then use these as starter punches, getting small pin to start moving is what bends 80% of the time.

Chuck the pin punch in a drill and runn it while grinding to get a nice square face and lightly rotate the drill just to break the edge.

Another trick. 3/8 bondhus Allen wrenches make the best punches. At work most stuff is Allen headed cap screws and unfortunately when you loose the 1/8 or 1/4 inch l wrench down the sluice, you just have to get a new set. Most guys keep the partial set around and every so often I will collect them up. Use the abrasive saw to cut the L and ball end off and put them in the hardinge with 5c collet. Have to spin them fast and use carbide tools but the have not only longer than usual handles but the steel is very hard yet tough and not brittle. I usually cut 1/2" and 1" pin lengths as small diameter pins are hard to cut due to flex and we don't have a box tool for the lathe. If you get a pin started and out an inch the manufacture pin punches will rarely bend.

We have on particular machine the replacing pallet bearing required over half a dozen 3/16 pin punches to complete(roll pins are 2" long and rusty from water based coolant) , last time with starter punches I didn't break or bend one.
 

dr_clyde

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Holland, MI
I have both snap-on and the Matco punch and chisel sets. I prefer the snappys for 2 reasons. The parabolic heads on the snappys is better, and the shank of the business end of the pin punches is longer, so you can punch out longer pins.
 

shop guy

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London, Ontario
I have always viewed punches and chisels as consumables so, I look for durable but, not too expensive. Wilde and Proto have served me well. :beer:

Yeah it'll likely equal out to the same in the end. Buy mid range a few times through the course of a lifetime or buy expensive ones. Take your pick.
 

californiaHank

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I have a bunch of punches and chisels from a bunch of manufacturers. A lot of them are 'lifetime' tools I've had for 10, 20, or 30 years. But, all of them, even high quality ones, are potentially 'consumables'.

Anything you hit with a hammer and use a lot is likely to need replacement eventually.
I like Starrett drive pin punches and center punches. I recently bought some Proto ones and like them too. My pin punches mostly get used for roll pins, and occasionally for driving out rivets.

It's useful to have different styles - long shank/short pin, short shank/long pin, etc.
Buy the styles and sizes you need, as you need them. You'd go broke buying every possible size and style, and the small 'assortment' kits from any manufacturer are sure to leave out something you need.

Don't get hung up on brand - I've got 'good' ones from Starrett, Proto, and others, and also cheaper ones from Dasco and others. Sometimes it's better to write off a $2 punch instead of a $10 one. If you often work on stuff that's misaligned or deformed due to stress there's a good chance any punch will fail if you hit it hard enough. Sometimes you don't know you've got a problem part until the punch bends or breaks. On the other hand, if you're a gunsmith and only work on 'easy' jobs, even a cheap punch will last almost forever.
 

WittHay

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The Snap-on are a good choice for one set of punches, they are longer than the Mac/Proto. The Protos are cheaper but their sets miss some sizes. I have a set each of Snap-on and Mac/Proto starter and pin punches plus Proto drift punches and long pin punches, Mac bearing race punches and Mac/Proto roll pin punches

When I have a really stuck pin, I use the Mac/Proto, the shorter length plus fatter hex is easier to use with big hammers
 
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JohnDeere1

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Kentucky
I love the PB Swiss but for beating the piss out of I use my Mayhew bought from TSC tractor supply also best value for brass sets as I bought 1 from Napa made in Taiwan for $20 and a set of 5 Mayhew for the same price made in USA.
 
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