Punch for a press

[AmericanMechanic]

Hi, I tried to do some research, but I must not be using the correct terms. I appreciate any help!

What's the proper tooling to use a punch with a press?

I.e. just pressing on a regular hand-held punch would most-likely lead to the punch shooting out to the side under a lot of force.

Is there some sort of attachment i can add to the press - maybe that fits around or screws onto the press ram - to press out pins and the like?

Both for an arbor press and a 20T hydraulic.

Thanks!

 

[OccupantRJ]

Die set. You add support blocking internally in the unit to align and support the punch and die.

 

[davethorik]

There is a big Greenerd arbor press at work and it has a few shop-made adapters that fit on the end of the ram. Primarily for broaches, but you could adapt it to other tooling.

Someone on here had adapted a drill chuck to attach to the ram of an arbor press. You could hold anything round or hex in that.

 

[lis2323]

There is a big Greenerd arbor press at work and it has a few shop-made adapters that fit on the end of the ram. Primarily for broaches, but you could adapt it to other tooling.



Someone on here had adapted a drill chuck to attach to the ram of an arbor press. You could hold anything round or hex in that.

I keep a variety of sizes of drill rod on hand.




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[davethorik]

I keep a variety of sizes of drill rod on hand

Nice looking Dake!

 

[matt_i]

On the arbor press I just use pins that have ends faced in the lathe. So far its good enough for anything I've put into the press. It does take a little "calibrated eyeball" to make sure the pin and the workpiece are properly aligned on the same axis.

The 30T hydraulic press I use as a backup I just use the same ideas...square the parts by facing them in the lathe. I have a set of DOM and pipe cutoffs that I use as well as I've drilled, bored, or hole-sawn holes in heavy flat bar

Usually one needs the lathe anyway to get the right combo of ID and OD to make the pressing event work properly.

The drill chuck is a good idea up to a certain point on small delicate stuff but after that its a hardened piece of tooling that lacks ductility which in my mind is a no-no in heavier pressing. Better for something to plastically deform under load than shatter.

 

[Turbo442]

I keep a variety of sizes of drill rod on hand.




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That looks beefy.


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[Turbo442]

I found this knock off 2 ton on CL the other day with a cast stand. It came with a few little forms that you can fit into the end of the ram or whatever it’s called.


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[Brand X]

https://www.toolsid.com/oem-tools/s...MI4f2nhKqI4QIV4R6tBh3hcwS-EAQYAiABEgKkwPD_BwE

 

[Sliding T-Handle]

Replacement punches for arbor dies or any other die set including punches with urethane strippers can most likely be ordered from Misumi. The upper pad of a die gives the material support, holding it still, and allowing the punch to withdraw without tuck-ups.

If you have tuck-up problems with a lone punch body; you can order a lone punch body and base with urethane punch stripper. OR you can jimmy rig a urethane to whatever you’re using for a punch And can possibly achieve what the die set will achieve at less cost, but you need good lower surface support with not too big a hole below the punched area of the material. Thick material doesn’t tuck-up easily, while thin material can tuck-up badly. But it’s important that the face of the punch is recessed in the urethane. Couple mm is good enough.

You can even get specialized coated punches made for better wear life if you are punching tougher steel types like 590 and 1180 and SS.


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