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Putting a new tool to use: Making a layout table

alex71

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A couple of weeks ago I finally found a mag drill. I've been looking for one forever, and I had a job in mind for it....

I have a 3x6 foot ground cast iron surface plate that I've been using for a workbench/welding table for a while. Its a nice heavy chunk of metal, and has a lip for clamping stuff to, but I've found myself wanting to clamp stuff to the middle of the table many times. If the table was steel, I'd just tack the work to it and be done with it, but being that its cast iron, that wouldn't work. I needed to drill and tap some holes so I could use the clamping kit from the mill on the table.

I laid out a grid of 72 holes (minus a couple in the corner where the vise is mounted) on 6 inch centers. 12 on the six-foot side, and 6 on the 3 foot side. Drilled, tapped, and inserted 1/2-13 helicoils. The hardest part of the job, by far was laying out the grid. I wanted it as accurate as I could reasonably make it, and it wasn't easy to do. The actual drilling and tapping wasn't difficult. Time-consuming, tedious repetitive, but not difficult.

Click for hi-res image.

Layout out the grid. Tools used: Combo square, machinist's square, 6-inch scale, number 2, sharpener, center punch and hammer.


Repeat the following steps, 72 times:

Line up the drill:


Drill:


Tap (using the mag drill, which is a hell of a lot easier than doing it by hand)


I deburred all the holes with a 90 degree countersink in a hand drill after drilling/tapping. (not shown)

Insert helicoils (this is what's left from a bag of 100)


Here is what I wound up with:


And after a bit of cleanup, and a couple of coats of wax... I'm happy with the results.
 
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Stephenw

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I'm curious, why use heli-coils, rather than thread the surface plate directly?
 

RbrtAWhyt

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Holy huge-*** pictures Batman! I'll have to revisit this thread later on tonight at home. The super slow internet here at the office wont cut it...
 
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alex71

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Holy huge-*** pictures Batman! I'll have to revisit this thread later on tonight at home. The super slow internet here at the office wont cut it...

Hey, at least I don't force them on you like some people :lol_hitti You only get huge pictures if you click.
 

UncleJoe

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Excellent work. Reminds me of when I worked in a large machine shop as a kid. They had a guy whose only job was to layout pieces for the machinist. He was an old machinist and knew every trick in the book. He had a layout table that had to be 10 foot long and about 8 foot wide. This company made large equipment for the steel industry.
 
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A_Pmech

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Looks good, Alex.

:thumbup:

Still kicking myself for not coming up to Chicago and picking up one of those plates.
 

Skyline

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Nice work. BTW, how can you tell if a big slab of metal like this is cast iron vs. steel?
 
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alex71

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Thanks guys. Its pretty easy to tell the difference. Cast iron just feels different. Its softer, and unless its ground smooth it has a different texture. Even easier to tell if you drill into it. Steel produces ribbons of swarf, and cast iron produces gray powder.
 
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alex71

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Wow, nice work. I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a similar cast iron or steel plate to use as a fixturing/jigging plate.

JMR makes decently priced fab table tops that are slotted for T-nuts http://www.jmrmfg.com/store/Fab-Table/

I've seen people post about those on other boards. What I don't get is how you can cut t-slots into 3/8" plate and have any material left.
 

MattT

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I've seen people post about those on other boards. What I don't get is how you can cut t-slots into 3/8" plate and have any material left.

Sounds like it's just a plate with normal slots cut in it. No way are they lazer cutting T slots no matter what the plate thickness is.
 
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alex71

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Sounds like it's just a plate with normal slots cut in it. No way are they lazer cutting T slots no matter what the plate thickness is.

Right you are... T-nuts have to be inserted from underneath the table. that would be a bit of a pain.
 

wyndycity

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Nice job Alex!

Think you'll have any issues with stuff potentially falling into the holes? Small screws, gunk, etc..?
 
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alex71

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If I'm going to disassemble something with lots of small parts I'll use a tray, or a piece of cardboard or something. Most of the holes go all the way through, so stuff will fall to the shelf underneath. Those that are blind, well a quick blast of compressed air will remove the foreign object.
 
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