putting on a steel roof

[curtis9]

This spring (if it ever quits snowing here) I am going to put up a 30x40x14 with a attatched 12x40 lean to on one side. This is a pole barn style building with a metal roof and metal siding. Eventually I will pour a slab with pex in it to heat the 30x40 part. My question is what is the best way to go about the roof? The building supply company said to use foil bubble wrap or insulation board under the metal. Another person said that i could just use some felt paper under the metal since i will be putting in a ceiling and blowing it in with cellulose insulation. This will be in northern michigan where its cold really cold in the winter and hot in the summer.

 

[Tim The Tool Man]

When I bought my place the condensation on the inside of the bare steel roof was rather excessive. I only got it under control once I sheetrocked and insulated my ceiling. Now it always remains dry.

If you can deal with iy until you finish the ceiling, then just leave it I would say...

 

[curtis9]

okay thanks alot. I didnt want to spend another 600 dollars on the insulation board if i didnt have too. I can deal with it until i am able to finish off the inside of the building.

 

[hoogy]

i have put strapping on rafters then a layer of 15 pound roofing paper then metal over that.

 

[Falcon67]

i have put strapping on rafters then a layer of 15 pound roofing paper then metal over that.

Having worked with 15 lb, 30 lb and the new rip-stop synthetic, I'd use the synthetic stuff. It'll cost a lot more but it's 1000x tougher than felt.

 

[mitusa]

Having worked with 15 lb, 30 lb and the new rip-stop synthetic, I'd use the synthetic stuff. It'll cost a lot more but it's 1000x tougher than felt.

And a lot easier to work with.......well worth the extra money. imo

 

[curtis9]

Having worked with 15 lb, 30 lb and the new rip-stop synthetic, I'd use the synthetic stuff. It'll cost a lot more but it's 1000x tougher than felt.[/QUOTE


Would you guys suggest using that under the metal than?

 

[hedhunter9]

We put OSB under the metal.

Bob

 

[mitusa]

Having worked with 15 lb, 30 lb and the new rip-stop synthetic, I'd use the synthetic stuff. It'll cost a lot more but it's 1000x tougher than felt.[/QUOTE


Would you guys suggest using that under the metal than?

I replaced my asphalt shingles on my house with a standing seam metal roof. I stripped it down to the plywood decking and used the synthetic covering. Worked great!

 

[volaredon]

I replaced my asphalt shingles on my house with a standing seam metal roof. I stripped it down to the plywood decking and used the synthetic covering. Worked great!

yeah me too... I used 30 lb felt, other than along the lowest elevarion and the valley; there I used different stuff (forget the name. its supposed to prevent ice damming) because the code guy here said I had to

 

[roofingquotes]

Its a new roof so its best to install plywood or oriented-strand board OSB and try coating the roof with an elastomeric coating. These has great insulating properties perfect for cooling in hot weather.

 

[cardude56]

When I built my 30 X 56 a year ago I used single layer bubble/foil under the roof metal.It was an option with the kit I ordered . I get no condensation on the inside roof and the reflective side makes it cooler in the summer sun . I ordered the kit here http://www.diypolebarns.com/
You should use soffit and ridge vents if you are going to install a ceiling and insulate it.
I assume you are going to use standard pole barn construction with roof trusses and perlins. The metal fastens directly to perlins

 

[1953mercury]

I personally wouldn't recommend putting metal roofing on osb . It has been my experience that screws don't hold nearly as well as they do in plywood, and will be causing you headaches for years to come. My new addition will be 5/8 plywood roof. Better to spent a little more initially and have a trouble free setup. JMHO Mike

 

[rburke65]

I had 5/8" OSB with synthetic felt underlayment and then the metal roofing. Its a new build and those materials are what was recommended by the lumber company.

 

[Justanoldguy]

I had 5/8" OSB with synthetic felt underlayment and then the metal roofing. Its a new build and those materials are what was recommended by the lumber company.

Yep, and lumber companies are there to sell product and are never the best option for building advise.

 

[blazentrout]

Nothing other than your perrlins and trusses. If you finish and insulate your celing and use vented eaves and a ridge vent, it should be a non issue. Im just north west of grand rapids and have never had an issue in the last decade with mine.

 

[hedhunter9]

I personally wouldn't recommend putting metal roofing on osb . It has been my experience that screws don't hold nearly as well as they do in plywood, and will be causing you headaches for years to come. My new addition will be 5/8 plywood roof. Better to spent a little more initially and have a trouble free setup. JMHO Mike

The screws should go thru the OSB and into your 2x4's
Never a problem that way.

Many of the amish build around here that way.
Survivied many a storm...

Bob

 

[trbomax]

3/8" fan fold foam housewrap,installed at 90* to the purlins and girts,taped at all seams.No sweats or drips.I used Polar Industries Weatherall system and put the foil side in for reflectivity and an r-3.5 value.

 

[Flatland Dave]

I have foil bubble under mine. 32 x 48 x 16 post on pillar. Metal sided/ roof

 

[Crazy Car Guy]

i went for the foil bubble and have no complaints

 

[jack stand]

Read up on that foil/bubble stuff. It has some radiant reflecting ability and it's about worthless for any "R" value. All the testing that I've read says it's pretty much a total sham.

 

[rburke65]

Yep, and lumber companies are there to sell product and are never the best option for building advise.

Well the lumber company erected the shop and that's where I go for the warrantee, so.....not a new concept!

 

[Justanoldguy]

Well the lumber company erected the shop and that's where I go for the warrantee, so.....not a new concept!

Well your first statement was somewhat misleading then.
You said "what was recommended by the lumber company".
Nowhere do you mention that they "erected and warrantied" the building.

My comment was purely about a supply situation and I stand by what I said.

 

[Dr_Goodwrench66]

I'm just south of the Mackinac Bridge and have a 40x64x16 pole barn with ridge vent and ventilated soffit and have no issues with condensation. Steel on roof screwed directly to perlins.

 

[curtis9]

I'm just south of the Mackinac Bridge and have a 40x64x16 pole barn with ridge vent and ventilated soffit and have no issues with condensation. Steel on roof screwed directly to perlins.

You cant be too far from me then, Boyne City, was born and raised in Petoskey.

 

[rburke65]

Justanoldcarguy.....I Understand....yes they are in the business to sell and profit.

 

[Dr_Goodwrench66]

You cant be too far from me then, Boyne City, was born and raised in Petoskey.

Practically neighbors! Gaylord here. Born and raised in Cadillac.

 

[fast325it]

I going to be starting a reroof on the house and a new 24x36 garage and would like to use steel roofing. Can anyone comment on the cost of metal/steel roofing over asphalt shingles?

Thank you

 

[1953mercury]

The screws should go thru the OSB and into your 2x4's
Never a problem that way.

Many of the amish build around here that way.
Survivied many a storm...

Bob

That could be somewhat problematic, depending on your rafter/truss centers. 5/8'' plywood does a much better job holding roofing screws for me. I suppose some USB may be better than others depending on types of base woods, adhesives and manufacturing methods. I would use 1x4 firing strips before I wood use USB. Water can also be pretty hard on it if the metal isn't properly installed or the screws don't hold well in the USB. This is especially true with dark colored roofing as the heating/cooling cycles put more stress on the USB/screw combo. JMO Mike

 

[jomobco]

Nothing other than your perrlins and trusses. If you finish and insulate your celing and use vented eaves and a ridge vent, it should be a non issue. Im just north west of grand rapids and have never had an issue in the last decade with mine.

^^^ What he said