PVC Brickmold

[mmelton005]

I just recently purchased my first home (one heck of a process!! I understand why I rented for so long!) Anyhow, on my side exterior entry door it looks like the prior owned neglected to pay attention to the door trim ( 1 1/4 x 2 brickmold). I am wanting to do a PVC replacement for longevity and easier maintenance. Any helpful tips to someone who has not installed this before? I have pretty good mechanical knowledge but I'm not sure how I would hide the fasteners. I'm assuming a brad nail? Also I was told that I could leave these unpainted and they would be ok. I am happy with the finish that they come in. Also where one side has been completely missing for who knows how long, can anyone recommend anything I can put on the wood that has been exposed? I was recommended a oil based sealer/primer that i could spray to help seal the wood. Here are the pictures of what I'm working with. Any help/tips would greatly be appreciated.

 

[BillK]

m,
I replaced the original wood brick mold on my sliding glass door with the pcv version, probably ten years ago. I used stainless trim screws to attach it. I got the screws at Home Depot but here is what they look like:

http://www.rockler.com/trim-head-stainless-steel-square-drive-screws-select-size

I just put a dab of white silicon sealer in the holes and it still looks fine 10 years later. I did not paint the molding, just left it the factory white finish.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Before you finish the job, I'd take a look at the flashing on that siding. My guess is it was letting water seep in behind the brickmold, rotting it out.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

m,
I replaced the original wood brick mold on my sliding glass door with the pcv version, probably ten years ago. I used stainless trim screws to attach it. I got the screws at Home Depot

Does it really look like white painted wood? Or can you tell its "plastic"?

I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but wondered how "authentic" it looks.

 

[BillK]

Does it really look like white painted wood? Or can you tell its "plastic"?

Depends on how good of a job you can do when painting wood You can tell that it is plastic but it really looks pretty good. I might try to post a couple of pics tomorrow.

 

[mmelton005]

m,
I replaced the original wood brick mold on my sliding glass door with the pcv version, probably ten years ago. I used stainless trim screws to attach it. I got the screws at Home Depot but here is what they look like:

http://www.rockler.com/trim-head-stainless-steel-square-drive-screws-select-size

I just put a dab of white silicon sealer in the holes and it still looks fine 10 years later. I did not paint the molding, just left it the factory white finish.

I've heard nothing but great things about the pvc molding vs wood. Honestly the price difference isn't that bad. I would have never though to just take some white silicon and "dabbing" the fastener holes. I seen a diagram at lowes that said to just use a outdoor pvc adhesive and that just doesn't sound too secure IMO. Would you mind to snap a few pics for me please of your molding?

Before you finish the job, I'd take a look at the flashing on that siding. My guess is it was letting water seep in behind the brickmold, rotting it out.

That was a huge concern for me as well. I have the sheet rock off of the wall behind the flashing and have inspected it heavily. The flashing is weathered but it is structurally sound. There is no evidence of water penetration to the inside of the wood (if that makes any sense) I have took a screwdriver and poked at the wood and thankfully it is still solid. I have some Kilz spray primer and I hope that will help. I will also be replacing the J channel...not looking forward to that!!! Doesn't look fun. Also if you look closely at the right picture towards the top red arrow, the prior owner had a storm door that got caught by the wind and broke the door and cracked the molding (or so he told me) and he just "never got around to fixing it".

Does it really look like white painted wood? Or can you tell its "plastic"?

I'm thinking of doing the same thing, but wondered how "authentic" it looks.

Go to Lowes/Home depot and check it would. I didn't even know they made this. When you hold it it feels like pvc (maybe not as slick) but when you look on the end of it, it looks like wood....but it's not. It seems like the way to go

 

[tcianci]

From your picture, there does not appear to be a head flashing on that door. There should be an 1-5/16 drip flashing above the top brick molding. People sometimes confuse the J channel with flashing but without the flashing, there is nothing to stop the water from sitting on top of the brick mold or from running in behind it.

It also looks like the sheathing is waferboard and there is no water resistant barrier between it and the siding. I would at the very least take up the siding and the j channel, apply a wide (10" or so) band of flashing tape around the entire door jamb and let it lap onto the jamb surface. Then install the PVC brick mold, taking care to observe the original "reveal" dimension. The reveal is the distance between the face of the door jamb and the face of the brick molding and in the case of your door, it's determined by the aluminum sill...the brick mold goes hard up against **** end of the sill and give you a reveal of about a half inch.
Once the plastic is in place,slice off any flashing tape that shows in the reveal area and caulk the joint between the new PVC and the wood jamb. Finish u by re-installing your j channel and siding.

 

[thewatusi]

Get one of these - it'll make replacing the j easy as pie.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00826H7RS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[mmelton005]

From your picture, there does not appear to be a head flashing on that door. There should be an 1-5/16 drip flashing above the top brick molding. People sometimes confuse the J channel with flashing but without the flashing, there is nothing to stop the water from sitting on top of the brick mold or from running in behind it.

It also looks like the sheathing is waferboard and there is no water resistant barrier between it and the siding. I would at the very least take up the siding and the j channel, apply a wide (10" or so) band of flashing tape around the entire door jamb and let it lap onto the jamb surface. Then install the PVC brick mold, taking care to observe the original "reveal" dimension. The reveal is the distance between the face of the door jamb and the face of the brick molding and in the case of your door, it's determined by the aluminum sill...the brick mold goes hard up against **** end of the sill and give you a reveal of about a half inch.
Once the plastic is in place,slice off any flashing tape that shows in the reveal area and caulk the joint between the new PVC and the wood jamb. Finish u by re-installing your j channel and siding.

Great information. I would have never known this had i not posted here. That's why I come here knowledgeable helpful people like yourself. Do you have any recommendations on how to fasten the new brick molding and cutting/shaping the new j-channel? That aluminum sill was the leftovers from the storm door that the prior owner had...it has since been removed and I will be installing a new storm door down the road.

I was looking at this and it seems to have great reviews

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9HB03C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm not sure I will have to actually remove any of the siding I can pull it away from the flashing about 3-5 inches. Surely this isn't a sign of improperly installed/defective siding. Didn't really set back any cash to have the whole house resided.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

m,
I replaced the original wood brick mold on my sliding glass door with the pcv version, probably ten years ago. I used stainless trim screws to attach it. I got the screws at Home Depot but here is what they look like:

http://www.rockler.com/trim-head-stainless-steel-square-drive-screws-select-size

I just put a dab of white silicon sealer in the holes and it still looks fine 10 years later. I did not paint the molding, just left it the factory white finish.

Do you have to predrill the PVC brickmolding?

 

[Beemer533]

No, you generally don't need to bother with predrilling pvc.

I personally prefer the PVC that Lowes sells over home Depot (I think it is Azek) as I think it looks more like wood.

I also use these screws with the plugs;
http://www.ositough.com/content/uac...iew-all-products/teq-fasteners.html#par_panel

A bit more expensive, but they just dissappear..

Also, I use a pvc adhesive in the miters and they never come apart.

 

[boiler7904]

You've got the exact same problem I had last year. Bought a house knowing the brickmold around the garage's back door was rotten. Looked at it deeper after closing and decided to just replace the whole door unit since the frame was starting to rot too and the door had a dent in it. Once I tore into it, I learned that there was no flashing around the door (luckily no rot to the framing or sheathing) and no weather barrier. Nothing a roll of Tyvek, some tape, a roll of flex flashing, a metal dripcap and an afternoon with my son couldn't fix. I still need to paint that door and trim now that I think about it - thanks for the reminder.

 

[retfr8flyr]

You've got the exact same problem I had last year. Bought a house knowing the brickmold around the garage's back door was rotten. Looked at it deeper after closing and decided to just replace the whole door unit since the frame was starting to rot too and the door had a dent in it. Once I tore into it, I learned that there was no flashing around the door (luckily no rot to the framing or sheathing) and no weather barrier. Nothing a roll of Tyvek, some tape, a roll of flex flashing, a metal dripcap and an afternoon with my son couldn't fix. I still need to paint that door and trim now that I think about it - thanks for the reminder.

That' exactly what I did with my garage door 2 years ago. I looked at all the work trying to replace everything, as opposed to just replacing it with a prehung door. I decided the prehung door was the way to go and it ended up being a very easy process.

 

[reader2580]

It is not at all unusual for older homes not to have any house wrap or similar under the siding. My house was built in 1980 and had no house wrap before I had the windows, doors, and siding replaced.

I am residing the garage and it has Bildrite sheating with nothing under the siding. Quite a bit of the Bildrite sheathing is bad, especially around the door and window which had no flashing. I don't believe the window had any caulk or sealant at all.

 

[tcianci]

Great information. I would have never known this had i not posted here. That's why I come here knowledgeable helpful people like yourself. Do you have any recommendations on how to fasten the new brick molding and cutting/shaping the new j-channel? That aluminum sill was the leftovers from the storm door that the prior owner had...it has since been removed and I will be installing a new storm door down the road.

I was looking at this and it seems to have great reviews

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9HB03C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I'm not sure I will have to actually remove any of the siding I can pull it away from the flashing about 3-5 inches. Surely this isn't a sign of improperly installed/defective siding. Didn't really set back any cash to have the whole house resided.

Ok, I think we have some terminology issues here. The J channel is the vinyl trim that is up against the brick mold. You will be reusing that. The aluminum drip cap flashing I mentioned is available in 48" or 10' lengths, the factory size for brickmold is 1-5/16 so it fits over the 1-1/4 moulding you can cut it to length with a snips or a utility knife and tack it over the new brickmould with a couple small corrosion resistant nails. then the J channel goes over the flashing. You will not be able to properly apply the flashing tape unless you remove the J channel and if you do use that 2" wide product, run 3 strips of of so you end up with a 6" band around the opening.

The aluminum sill I mentioned is not part of the old storm door. I'm talking about the aluminum sill of the entry door itself between the 2 side jambs. Note how the old brick mold was hard up against that sill and that sets the reveal for the new brick moulding.

 

[mmelton005]

Ok, I think we have some terminology issues here. The J channel is the vinyl trim that is up against the brick mold. You will be reusing that. The aluminum drip cap flashing I mentioned is available in 48" or 10' lengths, the factory size for brickmold is 1-5/16 so it fits over the 1-1/4 moulding you can cut it to length with a snips or a utility knife and tack it over the new brickmould with a couple small corrosion resistant nails. then the J channel goes over the flashing. You will not be able to properly apply the flashing tape unless you remove the J channel and if you do use that 2" wide product, run 3 strips of of so you end up with a 6" band around the opening.

The aluminum sill I mentioned is not part of the old storm door. I'm talking about the aluminum sill of the entry door itself between the 2 side jambs. Note how the old brick mold was hard up against that sill and that sets the reveal for the new brick moulding.

No sir. I am understanding what you mean. I am making a big deal out of nothing, but just want to make sure i repair this correctly. I updated the picture with arrows and text to confirm. The point of the drip cap is to deflect water away from the brickmold/door. The purpose of the flashing tape is to help seal/protect from water penetration. If i have anything wrong please correct me.

 

[nmk_61802]

Do not use Brads, use S.S. screws as mentioned above or S.S. finish nails. Length should be long enough to embed in the framing behind the door. Remember plastic expands and contracts with the temperature. Nail more often than with wood. Glue the mitered corners with pvc cement to keep them from opening up with the weather changes.

 

[tcianci]

good!

 

[mmelton005]

Here is what I plan to use

http://m.lowes.com/pd/FastenMaster-Cortex-for-Rot-Free-PVC-Trim-Boards/3439386

Upon further inspection I may have to get into replacing some of the sheeting (wood attached to the side of the house) when I was removing some of the j channel to try to take it to match the color I found in the bottom corner close to the threshold the wood looks rotten. So I may get into removing enough siding to replace a sheet of osb...oh joy. Glad I caught this though. I'll post pics later tomorrow. I'm not going to get to work on it till the weekend. I have all the exposed wood taped off and plastic over it so no more damage can occur until I get a chance to work on it :/

 

[Zeke]

That's just cheap pine finger joint molding. Won't last no matter what you do. The foam core PVC molding is very good stuff. As mentioned, fasten with SS and use either white silicone or white PVC repair cement to cover the holes left after you set the fastener. Repair cement is available from vinyl window dealers and probably Amazon.

This is just one of many:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HL8OYU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Hornman]

Let me add a cautionary note: I bought some PVC brickmold at Lowe's three years ago and used it to replace some old pine molding. I painted the trim a red oxide color and it held up well for two years. Not the paint has spalled off the P avac in many places. The worst problem I have with the PVC brickmold is that the ten foot lengths I have installed have shrunk 3/8" over the ten foot length. I even beveled the ends and fastened the two pieces together with screws, but the molding pulled itself through the screws. Around a door shrinkage may not be a deal breaker. I do live on the south side of DFW so I get real sunshine here. YMMV.

 

[mmelton005]

Well upon a more thorough inspection I'm about 98% sure I am going to have to be replacing some sheathing. Here are a few pictures I snapped. Going to tear into it this weekend.

Here is inside at the bottom corner of the door with the interior baseboards removed. The underlayment for the laminate floor is saturated..and i'm sure the actual subfloor may be as well.

Exterior close up of the door at the bottom corner just about the door sill plate

Exterior overview

So my "just replace brickmold job" Just got scaled up a notch. Any recommendations on what to use and how not to cut the studs when cutting out the bad section of sheathing? I really think i am going to be making a phone call to the home inspector that conducted the inspection before i bought this place. He should have investigated the flashing on the door instead of just making a note that the brickmolding needed to be replaced.