PVC Ceiling Panels vs Metal?

[Herb67SS]

Anyone have any experience or knowledge of this or other similar pvc panels for the ceiling of a garage? Please look at the AG Tuf Phase 2 product.

http://www.hfmfgcorp.com/pages/products.htm

I was going to use metal "liner" on the ceiling of my new garage, but someone suggested I might want to use PVC panels instead. They are easier to work with and install and are a bit cheaper than liner panels. Cost is $2.88 an LF for 38" wide 1mm thick.

 

[dieselgarage]

That is some interesting stuff. Thanks for the link.

 

[hh76]

I'm in the process of figuring out what I will use on my ceiling too, so thanks for the new idea.

My question would be flamability? I like the idea of steel or drywall for that reason, but I don't know all that much about the fire rating of the PVC product.

 

[Mattlt]

How far can the panels span? Will you be blowing insulation over the top? Be sure it can handle that weight and distance.

I'd be curious about fire as well. Seems like they'd melt really quickly. Like melt before they'd actually catch fire.

 

[Modifieddriver]

$2.88 perLF is pricey. That's at least $1 more than metal around here.

And, it's plastic. That means it will never last as long as metal.

 

[hh76]

$2.88 perLF is pricey. That's at least $1 more than metal around here.

And, it's plastic. That means it will never last as long as metal.

It's 3ft wide, so that makes it slightly cheaper than corrugated steel here.

 

[jlckmj]

hh76
Menards has the steel Pro Rib in white for $2.28 per foot @ 36 inch coverage. That is their normal price, when on sale you can save 10-15% off that. I think in their last flyer it was $70.00 per square (100 sq ft)

Jim

 

[stingry]

These PVC panels are rust-proof, non-combustible, easy to clean, and cost effective.
Above is taken from the posted link, so apparently they are fireproof. Hard to believe, plastic that won't burn!!!

Cheers
Steve

 

[Slick_Sammy]

I use some foam PVC sheets (not corrugated like the metal you are discussing) but it doesn't burn.

The sheet I buy looks like the 'Phase-2® Palight' mentioned by Herb67SS and the site he listed.
The sheets I use are white or black, and are very light weight - they are smooth on both sides. I also use some standard PVC sheet that looks and feels like the pipe stuff, and again it doesn't burn. The website says it is 'self -extinguishing' or UL rated as non-burn.
I like the foamed style for use as panels, as it is light and easy to cut around corners and pipes and stuff. Also, this stuff lasts forever.
Hope this helps.

 

[Kevin54]

One downside to PVC, plastic, vinyl or whatever one wants to call it is that it seems to attract dirt more so than metal or wood. I think a lot of that is due to being able to build up static electricity.

Another downside is that PVC has a tendency to sag if not nailed close where as metal is more rigid.

As far as catching fire, melting, or burning and throwing off toxic fumes, it's not going to make much of a difference if the garage fire is that big anyways. And if you are framed out with wood and OSB, that will catch fire too. If you are going to insulate the attic, you'll have to either have the ceiling framed out close with 1x2's to hold the vinyl and to hold the insulation above. If you have a fire that would happen to go straight up, the vinyl will melt and the wood catch fire, but metal may block the fire long enough to get a fire put out.

For the money and as far as ceiling materials go, I'd go with OSB or drywall. My personal preference for my garage is drywall because of the cost factor, but if you catch it right, you can get OSB for about the same cost as drywall as long as it's not hurricane season.

 

[tcianci]

While they're "non combustible" they will probably burn when exposed to flame and then stop when the flame goes away but they probably won't support combustion themselves. They will however melt and drool all over anyone who is fighting a fire in there

 

[hh76]

hh76
Menards has the steel Pro Rib in white for $2.28 per foot @ 36 inch coverage. That is their normal price, when on sale you can save 10-15% off that. I think in their last flyer it was $70.00 per square (100 sq ft)

Jim

wow, I just checked Lowes, and they are at about that for 24in coverage. I was looking at corrugated, though.

 

[Kevin54]

These PVC panels are rust-proof, non-combustible, easy to clean, and cost effective.
Above is taken from the posted link, so apparently they are fireproof. Hard to believe, plastic that won't burn!!!

Cheers
Steve

They are not fireproof, but the Flame Spread Index has it where it takes longer to ignite into flames vs. a wood product. The flame spread index is not totally accurate with the way the products are tested. The vinyl panels would melt and drip before igniting so it lowers the number, where as wood is stationary and will ignite, so there are variables. But it is not "fireproof".

This is a description for wood:

Flame Spread Index for Wood Products
Fire Safety of Wood Products
USDA, Forest Service
Forest Products Laboratory
One Gifford Pinchot Drive
Madison, WI 53705-2398
Numerous flame-spread tests are used, but the most common one cited by building codes is
ASTM E 84, the 25-foot tunnel test. This test method involves the use of a 20-inch by 25-foot
specimen exposed horizontally to a furnace operating under forced draft conditions. The two
results of this test are the flame spread index and smoke developed index.
In the past, select grade red oak flooring was used as a standard and was given a flame spread
index of 100. Today, red oak flooring still has an index around 100 but is no longer used in the
calculation of the flame spread index. The smoke developed index is still based on red oak
flooring having a value of 100. The indexes are also based on inorganic reinforced cement board
having a value of zero.
For regulatory purposes, interior finish materials are classified according to their flame spread.
The classes are 0-25 for Class A or I, 26-75 for Class B or II, and 76-200 for Class C or III. For
regulatory purposes, the requirement for smoke developed index is usually 450 or less.
This list of ASTM F 84 flame spread indexes and smoke developed indexes for untreated wood
products was prepared from the literature. The Forest Products Laboratory (FPL) does not have
an ASTM E 84 test furnace. Results from the 8-foot tunnel (ASTM E 286) of the FPL are not
comparable or equivalent to ASTM E 84 test results. A list of commercial testing laboratories with
the 25-foot tunnel is available from the Fire Safety of Wood Products Research Work Unit (608-
264-5669).
The flame spread index may depend on density, thickness, chemical composition, and surface
characteristics. Finishes on the wood may affect the flame spread index depending on the
thickness and composition of the finish. Changes in the procedures for calculating the flame
spread index have also affected the numbers. Species identification on this list are the names
given in the references. Exact identification of the species may not have been possible.
Fire-retardant treatments can be used to reduce the flame spread index of wood to 25 or less.
Lists of the fire-retardant coatings and pressure treaters are also available from the Fire Safety of
Wood Products Research Work Unit.
Building code officials may require building materials to be stamped with the flame spread
classification of an approved testing agency. Users should consult the manufacturer as to the
availability of their product with an approved stamp

 

[Herb67SS]

All good points to consider. As for fire rating, the product data sheet has the fire code ratings. The Mfg told me with 24" truss spacing, and blown in insulation, there will be some deflection with 10" or more insulation but not sagging. With batts, no problem.

As for price, I was quoted $3.25 / LF for 29ga metal liner in 36" width from a metal building product supplier. The $2.88 is for this 1mm UV stable exterior grade product. The thinner interior product is $2.12/LF. It's used a lot in dairy barns, etc because it is not subject to rust, corrosion etc and can be hosed down if needed. Another plus is that it is MUCH easier to work with than metal.

As for drywall, never saw drywall used in an unheated environment that didn't eventually have seam cracks and issues, including ALL my other and previous garages. Hang this stuff and your done. Just like metal, no finishing or refinishing. Factor finishing including primer, paint, repainting, etc into drywall cost and its not as cheap as it seems.

Worth considering.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I put Menards Pro-Rib steel panels on the ceiling of our attached garage a few years ago:

https://www.menards.com/main/steel-...448676857-c-5717.htm?tid=-1707212132870207585

Pretty happy with it. Still looks nice. Only down side (1) heavy and (2) hard to cut (good thing we had a only a few cuts to make.

Now I have a 1000sf shop to put a ceiling on. 10' ceiling in half, cathedral starting at 10' in the other half.

I like the idea of the PVC panels which should much lighter.

Anyone use them? Pros and cons please. What kind did you use? What else is out there for a garage ceiling?

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

 

[4AudiQ]

I used Durabuilt White Vinyl Soffet from Lowe's:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_6809-271-36...ld+white+solid+soffet&facetInfo=#BVRRWidgetID

 

[GYPSY400]

White vinyl siding for me.. Wasn't in the mood to paint 27 sheets of osb


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk