PVC Pipe for Shop Vac

[pony]

I need to run some PVC pipe to allow for my shop vac to be in another room while I have two feeds going to my work bench. My main question is what size of tubing is best suited for a typical Sears type 2HP 20Gal 120v shop vac. The run I
have to make from the vac is:

Up 8'
Across 20'
Across 90 degrees again 10'.
From this last 10' of pipe I have to go down twice 8' to my work bench; thinking once at 4' and again at 10'.
So the total pipe would be 46'. I'd have the second downpipe closed of course.

I am mainly using this for suction of dust and Copier\Printer Toner so the need to **** up marbles isn't there

There will be times when both downpipe will be needed for suction.

Thought's

 

[Wildfire]

I "think" you need to make sure and either run a ground strap from the pipe to a ground or use electrical conduit.

The purpose is to prevent a static electricity buildup that can lead to a spark which can burn your garage down. Sounds crazy, but we used to live in a house that didn't have 3 prong outlets. My shop vac hose used to shock me all the time from the static electricity - kind of like one of those static electricity balls that makes your hair stand on end!

Of course, I could be completely wrong about this. However, I would investigate it or test it after installed.

 

[bmwpower]

I would think pressure drop will be a big problem when you run 46 feet. Then you have to account for bends in the pipe, which will also cause an even bigger pressure drop.

 

[kartracer55]

I honestly dont think one shop vac will handle this, but make sure yu can seal off all of your "drops" so that the suction goes where you need it.

Jim

 

[pony]

You may be correct, I can't find an online calulator for this, seems more complicated than a few simple variables. I'd just like to get that noisey thing out of my shop.

 

[RJRKCJ]

Little too long on the length. Each 90 also adds the equivalent of another 6' of run. Although PVC (with a ground) is the way to go versus the corregated pipe I have seen others use.

You might want to add up all $ for the pieces that you are thinking of getting and get a small dustbuster from out one outlet stores or online. Might give you additional funtionality too.

I have numerous dust collectors the largest is 5HP three phase and that run would not give me much in the other end.

 

[2000PRE]

I had a setup in my little shop like you are talking about. I used 1-1/2" PVC with the long radius elbows, and the long radius tees. The O.D. of the 1-1/2" PVC fittings was the same as the I.D. on the Craftsmans shop vac and hoses, so it worked out nice. If you use two drops at one time, get a couple of 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" reducing inserts, and use two 1-1/4" hoses like Craftsman has on their little 2 gallon shop vacs. I use to hook up my beltsander and circular saw to my vac system using this method, and I didn't have any problems. I would highly recommend grounding the system as well.

 

[pony]

2000PRE, thanks for your real life experience. RJRKCJ that bit about 90 degree adding 6', good point.
I was wondering why inhome vacs can go through the wall pipe etc and found via google that they have 5x the power of a normal vac

My fear going that route is after the purchase of a good used built in I'd damage the motor with my printer toner dust getting past the bag and filter into the motor.

Are they're ways around this?

 

[Bill K]

Look in your yellow pages and find someone in your area that sell and services central vac units. You can buy pipe and fitting that are specially designed for use with vac systems. The inside of the pipe is smoother than regular pvc and all of the elbows and t's are a sweep design to allow for smooth air flow. The price is comparable to regular pvc. you may find you have to go to a little larger unit to acheive the suction you want.

 

[bmwpower]

2000PRE, thanks for your real life experience. RJRKCJ that bit about 90 degree adding 6', good point.
I was wondering why inhome vacs can go through the wall pipe etc and found via google that they have 5x the power of a normal vac

My fear going that route is after the purchase of a good used built in I'd damage the motor with my printer toner dust getting past the bag and filter into the motor.

Are they're ways around this?

I think you need a toner vac if you want to **** up toner. They're made specifically for toner. AFAIK, toner will go through the filter of other vacs.

 

[BoostAddiction]

I think you need a toner vac if you want to **** up toner. They're made specifically for toner. AFAIK, toner will go through the filter of other vacs.

I'm pretty sure that a HEPA filter would stop even toner particles. Don't the HEPA filters go down to 2 microns or so?

-Will

 

[bmwpower]

I'm pretty sure that a HEPA filter would stop even toner particles. Don't the HEPA filters go down to 2 microns or so?

-Will

You're probably right. I checked and some HEPAs go down to 0.3 microns.

 

[pony]

bmwpower good advice.
Yeah there are filters I can get to help in this. I'm motivated by getting that vac out of the room. If not I'll suffer but I hate the sound of a vacuum, I'd rather listen to a table saw

 

[pony]

OK so if I am reading correctly my research, despite 2000PRE post here that says it's doable, it is really not advised to pull that much piping in line with a standard "Sears" type shop vac. Hmm perhaps I'll plumb the pipe, with grounding lines - that was something I hadn't even though of , and see if my Vac ***** enough; if not I can always spend more money on one that ***** even more.

Thanks again for your all posts

 

[Washbush]

There is one more thing that you might try ... I believe that Sears, as well as the othr major vac makers, have a "dry wall dust" filter that slips over the sponge filter in the vacuum. I have already cleaned up Portland Cement with that filter and none came through. Maybe that would work with your toner also.

 

[red98gt]

You will need a HEPA type filter to stop the toner! I used to work with Laser Printers and toner will go STRAIGHT THROUGH a normal filer even with foam on it! Watched a guy do it once, what a mess!!! It is much smaller than dust, cement etc.

 

[barn9]

I understand why, but how would a person "ground" plastic pipe? I have considered doing somethin similar so I could control dust, etc., without having to deal with the shop vac and hose being under foot.

 

[toolman]

Bar9, there are a few ways of doing it. One way I have seen is you would drill a small hole at the end of each pipe then drive a screw into it making sure it enters about 1/8 into the inside of the pvc. Put a little sealant on the screw before screwing it in. two part epoxy works great. Then you would run and attach a ground wire to each screw.

Check out this article
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html#inside

 

[barn9]

Thank you toolman! Good article there also.

 

[Willy Victor]

I'd say it's definitly a must to ground PVC pipe. I think PVC picks up more static elec. than metal pipe. As the post said drill a small hole and run the wire inside the pipe and then run the ground wire to the tool you are using. Does that sound right?

Willy