Q on painting trim

[motoguy]

I'm putting up some base trim and door / window molding. I'm going to be painting the trim white prior to cutting. Then I'll be installing, crack-filling with caulk, and finish paint / edge touch up.

I'm curious...will something like a Wagner Power Painter:

Work to shoot this trim, or do I need to get / rent / borrow / steal an airless unit, like this one:

I've always seen guys using the airless units, but they were generally contractors, so I assume they used the airless for interior / exterior painting as well. As I only need to do trim, something like the $50 Wagner from Clist would fit the budget a lot better!

 

[scott_one]

You can get them Wagners, Brand new at Home Depot for 50 bucks. They did not get very good reviews though. I was looking for something like that to paint my basement cement brick walls with. A roller just doesn't do a good job.

Would also like to know of a decent paint sprayer that I can purchase, but I didn't want to spend $200 on one.

 

[scott37300]

I did a lot of research on paint guns when I had a bunch of trim to paint. I have a titan airless sprayer but for trim it has a lot of overspray. I found this and it has great reviews, http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongunnew.html. I bought it and did all my trim with little overspray. I love this gun for spraying pretty much anything, oil and latex paint, polyuerathane, etc. I acutally bought one of those car ports with sides and used it as a paint booth when I was redoing my kitchen.

Everything I read said the wagner power painters were pretty much a one time use thing. Not very good reviews.

 

[motoguy]

I did a lot of research on paint guns when I had a bunch of trim to paint. I have a titan airless sprayer but for trim it has a lot of overspray. I found this and it has great reviews, http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongunnew.html. I bought it and did all my trim with little overspray. I love this gun for spraying pretty much anything, oil and latex paint, polyuerathane, etc. I acutally bought one of those car ports with sides and used it as a paint booth when I was redoing my kitchen.

Everything I read said the wagner power painters were pretty much a one time use thing. Not very good reviews.

Scott,

Thanks for the link! That looks like a great setup for the trim I need to paint, as well as the doors we need to re-paint as well! Much easier to handle on a small scale than the airless sprayer. I'm somewhat new to the trim side of a remodel. Do I need to order anything else from Gleem, or is the gun all I should pick up for now?

 

[Plump]

I've been looking for something like this that actually can spray some latex. I have an airless sprayer but it's a bit overkill for trim, etc. and takes too long to clean for these smaller applications. Thanks Scott.

Motoguy, let me know if you get it and how it works for you.

 

[motoguy]

I've been looking for something like this that actually can spray some latex. I have an airless sprayer but it's a bit overkill for trim, etc. and takes too long to clean for these smaller applications. Thanks Scott.

Motoguy, let me know if you get it and how it works for you.

Just waiting to hear if I need to place any "accessories" in my order, and it'll be on it's way. I have the trailer hooked up, and I'm going to pick up the trim shortly!

 

[Stuart in MN]

I have a Wagner power painter that I used to stain the shingle siding on my garage. They're okay for getting a lot of product onto the wall in a short period of time, but they're not going to give you a nice, smooth finish - if you use one to paint trim, you'll still have to brush the paint out after applying it to get a decent look.

 

[motoguy]

Rather than wait here for info on accessories, I just called Gleem. He mentioned the accessories he would recommend (#4 kit, strainers, etc), and mentioned that they should show up as "recommended accessories" when I place the gun in my cart. Sure enough, they did! He offered to take my order over the phone, but I didn't have my credit card handy. Luckily, they have a PayPal option, so I just placed the order through their site (and PayPal) when I hung up!

Here's what I ordered:

Your Order

1 Wagner HVLP Conversion Gun $129.00
1 Check Valve Kit (3 Pack) SprayTech $15.83
1 #4 Low CFM Projector Set, 1.8MM (for conversion gun) $49.75
1 Slip-On Paint Strainers (3 or 10 Pack)
* Quantity : 1: 0550981 10x Pack $15.95
1 HVLP Gun Wrench $9.64
Subtotal: $220.17
Shipping: $12.70*
Total: $232.87

He told me the check valve kit isn't a requirement, but is handy to have should the gun clog up. He said these may or may not be available locally.

Their site says the #4 kit is the best way to spray thicker material (such as latex) without thinning (or much thinning). It's offered on "special" with order of the gun.

The strainers I'd be buying anyway (either online or local), and I went back and forth about the gun wrench. I've got plenty of tools, but if the gun is built using so that it requires "thinner than a combination wrench" tools for disassembly, then the wrench is probably handy to have. I suspect I probably just spent $10 that I didn't need to spend, however.

 

[Mandres]

I'm curious how this will work out for you too. The conventional wisdom is that HVLP will not work well for latex paint unless you use a ton of floetrol and thin it down a whole lot.

When it comes to painting trim I usually go with one of these:

 

[motoguy]

I'm curious how this will work out for you too. The conventional wisdom is that HVLP will not work well for latex paint unless you use a ton of floetrol and thin it down a whole lot.

When it comes to painting trim I usually go with one of these:

Yeah, I've got a bunch of those. I was helping an electrical contractor friend over the summer last year, and I watched some of the local "highly regarded" trim guys. I admit, their work was amazing when done. It looked like the trim was molded into part of the wall. The preached the benefits of spraying vs rolling. In addition to that, I have several doors that I need to paint as well, and I think spraying is the way to go for those.

 

[bochnak]

I used pre-primed white trim in my home. I also used 6 panel primed doors.

I install everything, caulk gaps, fill nail holes, and then paint with brush or 4" foam roller. I usually paint trim and doors first, and then cut in wall color by hand.

My method is pretty time consuming.

I make sure that all caulk is painted, otherwise it will discolor or get dirty pretty quick.

I use a 9" roller for 6 panel doors, followed by a brush for the recessed areas.

 

[scott37300]

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner! Sounds like you got it figured out.

I didn't get the #4 tip set, I just used what came with the gun. I did use floetrol and penetral to thin depending on oil/water base paints. I've sprayed oil and latex primer, paint, and polyeurathane with the tip that came with it and it works great. I redid my kitchen over the last two years and I started to paint all the doors with a roller and brush, tried every kind of roller and brush available and even used floetrol to thin it out and slow dry time but no matter what I didn't like how it turned out. So bought this gun after much research. One other thing is I don't use any paint from box stores, I've found the paint from a paint store like sherwin williams is WELL worth the extra couple bucks and the people there know what they are talking about unlike the box stores. Also I signed up for email sales and sherwin williams sends me coupons for 30-40% off paints about once a month so the prices are very close to box stores for much better quality.

I didn't order those strainers, although they do look nice. I mixed my paint in a cup and then poured it threw a paper filter into the gun's cup. Just some cheap throw away filters. But you do need a filter because after you strain it you will find some chunks.

I droped my gun and bent the handle, didn't affect it but they were only like 4 bucks so ordered two of them. I ordered a bunch of replacement parts for the gun from gleem, they are fairly cheap and I don't think they sell them locally. I would hate to be in the middle of spraying and have to try and find some parts somewhere! I ordered extra seals and other parts just to have on hand so if I need them it's a quick fix. I did have to replace the packing seal once, it was leaking.

Another thing I bought and would recomend is a cleaning kit, bunch of different brushes and needles to clean everything. Cleaning is fairly easy but does take a couple minutes. When done I empty the cup and put water or mineral spirits (depending on the paint) in the cup and spray threw the gun. Then take the gun apart and clean each piece with the brushes. The wrench you got will come in handy for this. Cleaning is probably the most important part, pretty sure the gun will last forever if you keep it clean.

My suggestion is to practice a lot before doing your trim. Buy some extra trim, or what I did was go to habitat for humanity restore where they sell used building materials for cheap. I bought about 20 cabinet doors for a buck a piece and used them to practice on. Getting the settings right will take some time, air pressure, fluid mixture, paint thinning, etc. This took me a while to get the hang of but once I did it came pretty easy. Also a GOOD water filter for your compressor.

I think that is it for now. It does have some overspray but not as much as my airless sprayer. I set up one of those 100 doller car tents in the driveway to block all the wind. Then put tarps on the ground to protect the concrete. I also wore a resperator.

If you have anymore questions feel free to PM me or I'll try to watch this thread. I'm not a pro by any means but can try to answer with my experience with this gun.

 

[darkk]

Trust me when I tell you this. You can paint your trim with the cheapest Wagner or any other cheap electric paint sprayer. I painted a whole two story house (22x24) with 17' eaves with a Wagner power painter that cost me $79.99 from Wal-Mart about 6 years ago.

 

[Falcon67]

I'm curious how this will work out for you too. The conventional wisdom is that HVLP will not work well for latex paint unless you use a ton of floetrol and thin it down a whole lot.

When it comes to painting trim I usually go with one of these:

That's what we're using. We're using fine foam 6" rollers. Makes quick work of it and it's cheap. Yes, have tons of trim to do in the old house.

 

[scott37300]

Trust me when I tell you this. You can paint your trim with the cheapest Wagner or any other cheap electric paint sprayer. I painted a whole two story house (22x24) with 17' eaves with a Wagner power painter that cost me $79.99 from Wal-Mart about 6 years ago.

I'm sure you can but when I was looking for a gun I read MANY stories of users saying they bought the cheap wagner electric sprayer and used it once and went to use it again a couple months or a year later and it was junk. No replacement parts for it, pretty much a throw away use once gun.

 

[MoonRise]

Used a Wagner power-painter years ago.

Hated it.

Yeah it 'sprays' paint. More like 'spits out' paint. It is NOT a fine-finish tool.

Also, the 'power' mechanism is pretty much a 60 Hz vibratory piston. Loud, buzzy, annoying.

A halfway decent airless sprayer is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better for putting paint out. Faster, easier, quieter, smoother, better spray, etc. Did I mention quieter?

Even that is not a 'fine' finish tool. Painting a house with it, sure. Inside or outside. Painting 'fine' things (furniture or cars or whatnot), iffy.

An HVLP or conventional spray gun generally gives a -much- better finish spray. Operator skill is still involved.

Unless you are not going to be close to the trim, you 'could' spray the trim. But for 'just' a bunch of door and window and baseboard moldings -usually- just apply the paint with a brush or trim roller (for really flat profiles). IMHO.

Some complicated profiles (fussy dentil molding, maybe some painted carved applique moldings, that sort of thing) might warrant/benefit from spray application of paint, but that might move to the use off a detail gun or airbrush-type device and not a general-purpose airless sprayer or quart-gun type HVLP or conventional gun.


Oh, pre-prime and pre-paint using a sprayer? Could be. But you still have to go back and do all the touch-up and caulk/fill and whatnot.

Maybe pre-prime and apply first top coat before installation. Than install, do the caulk and fill, and then final top-coat and cut-in via brush.

 

[Plump]

What tip size does it come with? I'd love to not spend another $50 on the #4.

Northern Tool sells the same gun so maybe I'll run over there and see if they have all the parts, filters, etc. so that if I decide to not buy them online, I can get them after the fact; especially the wrench since that seems like something that I should be able to figure out with the tools I've got.

Moto, let me know about that wrench too. Thanks for the other information....greatly appreciated again!

 

[scott37300]

What tip size does it come with? I'd love to not spend another $50 on the #4.

Northern Tool sells the same gun so maybe I'll run over there and see if they have all the parts, filters, etc. so that if I decide to not buy them online, I can get them after the fact; especially the wrench since that seems like something that I should be able to figure out with the tools I've got.

Moto, let me know about that wrench too. Thanks for the other information....greatly appreciated again!

I believe the tip is a 1.3 or #3 on their site, but I'm not positive.

The wrench isn't "needed" but is kind of handy. I have used a channel locks and I believe 10mm socket for the nozzle. I keep my gun in a plastic tool box with all the accesories and the wrench. It's nice to just grab one wrench and have all the tools you need to take the gun apart to clean. Be sure to get a gun cleaning kit with all the different brushes, I bought mine from gleem but I think HF sells one also.

 

[Plump]

Well, Northern didn't have that one in stock. Broke down and ordered from Gleem (who I've ordered from before and been very happy). Got the wrench and the #4 tip as well just to be safe and really be able to get done what I want. I have a ton of doors, cabinets, trim and molding to paint and I abhor painting. The intricate doors are the worst and take forever. I figure the money spent is time taken off the project, and as we all know, time = money.

Looking at other reviews about the sprayer, it seems as though the wrench is definitely needed for the thorough cleaning that is supposed to be done once/twice per year. I figure the extra tip will allow me to dilute the paint less and avoid runs/drips/errors.

Let's not kill the thread since I want to know what types of paint you guys use with success or not. What about water and Floetrol? Ratios? Thanks for everything guys!

There is a Sherwin-Williams near work so I can hopefully get some good information from them.

 

[MoonRise]

Quick explanation of "paint":

Paint is basically three parts, the pigment (the 'color' part of the paint), the resin/binder (the stuff that holds the pigment and makes it stick to what you are painting and makes the final paint film), and the solvent (the 'liquid' that lets you apply the paint as a liquid). Plus other 'stuff' to adjust things and help make the paint stable in the container and so on. But 'basic' paint is those three parts, pigment and binder/resin and solvent.

Once you get the 'color' that you want/desire, you won't be adjusting or changing the pigment(s) of the paint, so that is not a variable.

So that leaves the resin/binder and the 'solvent' as things you can or may adjust/tweak when you go to apply the paint.

Latex/acrylic paint uses water as the 'solvent' (not really a "solvent" as it actually is there to help keep all the resin/binder molecules from 'sticking' together and turning the 'paint' into a solid before you can actually apply it).

To 'thin' latex/acrylic paint, you can add some more water (aka 'solvent') to the liquid paint. But if you add too much water, you end up with a 'thin' paint film that can/may fail because the final proportion of resin/binder in the paint film it too low to properly bond and adhere and set-up. Results may show up as peeling or flaking or a 'dusty/chalky' paint (note that other causes can make those symptoms show up as well). And that is why most water-based aka latex/acrylic paints list some instructions like 'do not thin with more than 10% or 25% water, etc'.

So what can you do to thin the paint without making a mess of the final paint film? Enter Floetrol. Pretty much it is a 'thin' plain acrylic/latex resin/binder with no pigment.

(actual 'solvent' based paints are similar except that there are bunches of different solvents/thinners with differing characteristics that can be used, such as temperature and humidity and flash-off time and so forth).

What does all this boil down to in a sentence or two?

Read the label/instructions and use the 'proper' materials, which include water and/or other additives/solvents/goop.

btw, I agree with using 'good' paint.

So like their ads say, "Ask Sherwin Williams" for some tech hints/tips.

 

[motoguy]

I agree that the trim could have been done with a roller...but I was very impressed with the spray results I witnessed this summer. Besides...I've been wanting a spray gun for a while, and by making it "for the house", I was given the ok by the Boss to use some of the wedding money for the purchase. If it was "just because I want one", it'd have to come from -my- money, which means less for my other toys!

 

[jvitez]

If it was "just because I want one", it'd have to come from -my- money, which means less for my other toys!

You devil, you! Newlywed's and you've figured out marital finances already? Well done!

MoonRise: great explanation of the chemistry of paint.

I've never used a spray gun myself, but I've rolled and brushed many a mile of paint. I painted houses between university years, then painted a few of my own/family's. I watched as our new house had the trim sprayed with oil based stain. Very interesting! The trim carpenters installed all the trim, then the varnish gent comes and sprays everything, despite there being bare drywall only. It made no sense at first. Why do all that cutting in of wall colour afterwards? But later I figured it out: spraying is so much faster, and staining is more finicky than painting, so spray the stain when overspray doesn't matter, then spend some time cutting in paint. Faster overall.

I've used Floetrol and Penetrol (for oil based paint) brushing trim with excellent results.

 

[Zeke]

Roll the paint on and drag a brush over it immediately and leave it alone. On sawhorses, this will give you a finish next to none with no spray gun clean up or cost.

I have every painting tool made except the gizmos sold on TV. I was at one time a painting contractor. I grab a brush and roller 49 times out of 50. I do have airless, conventional, HVLP (as in the blower type), but I don't have one of those rattle guns nor will I ever.

I could spit it thru a straw better.

However, if you must, just drag the brush along the freshly sprayed (splattered) paint and it will look a lot better. The trick to all painting is to get it on, lay it off and leave it. Over brushing just makes paint look like rope.

 

[scott37300]

I have a ton of doors, cabinets, trim and molding to paint and I abhor painting. The intricate doors are the worst and take forever. I figure the money spent is time taken off the project, and as we all know, time = money.

This gun makes cabinet doors a breeze, that was the main reason I bought it. I had a ton of drawer fronts and doors to do. Started rolling/brushing trying everything and every kind of roller and brush and additive with poor results. I bought this gun and it was the best investment ever for cabinet doors. Just spray and go! I built drying racks so I could spray and had a helper moving them as I sprayed.

As far as ratios I just followed the directions on the floetrol or penetrol depending on what I was spraying. I would suggest a lot of practice on scrap before spraying your good stuff to get the ratios and also all the air pressure and other adjustments dialed in.

I'm going to try and find some threads I started on some other forums when I bought this gun, they answered a lot of my questions.

 

[Plump]

I agree that the trim could have been done with a roller...but I was very impressed with the spray results I witnessed this summer. Besides...I've been wanting a spray gun for a while, and by making it "for the house", I was given the ok by the Boss to use some of the wedding money for the purchase. If it was "just because I want one", it'd have to come from -my- money, which means less for my other toys!

Been married for a while and she doesn't get on me much about money as long as everything is taken care of, but I just explained the purchase in much the same way. "Tax refund money used for a new toy, honey! It will help me get all this kitchen painting done!!"

"Cool", was her response with glazed-over eyes. She doesn't care.

 

[motoguy]

UPS just dropped off the gun I ordered from Gleem, along with accessories. I won't have a chance to mess with it until next week, but I'm pleased with the prompt shipping and good packaging.

 

[Plump]

Got mine dropped off too. I'm going to find a way to break it out ASAP.

 

[motoguy]

This gun makes cabinet doors a breeze, that was the main reason I bought it. I had a ton of drawer fronts and doors to do. Started rolling/brushing trying everything and every kind of roller and brush and additive with poor results. I bought this gun and it was the best investment ever for cabinet doors. Just spray and go! I built drying racks so I could spray and had a helper moving them as I sprayed.

As far as ratios I just followed the directions on the floetrol or penetrol depending on what I was spraying. I would suggest a lot of practice on scrap before spraying your good stuff to get the ratios and also all the air pressure and other adjustments dialed in.

I'm going to try and find some threads I started on some other forums when I bought this gun, they answered a lot of my questions.

Scott,

Any chance you found the threads you reference above? I'm ready to break out the gun and start spraying, but I need to figure out how to get from here (sitting at the table) to there (sprayed trim). I need to figure out air pressure, solvent quantities, and...what else? What exactly am I looking for in the pressure and solvent, anyway? Lack of splatter? Good "flow" without being watery?

BTW, I'll be headed to the local Sherwin-Williams store shortly to get their input on my situation as well.

 

[scott37300]

I looked for them but I couldn't find them. Thought they were on DIYchatroom but couldn't find them.

For air pressure I will set my regulator on the wall at around 70 PSI just to get it down a little and then the gun regulator I will set at around 15 PSI(I believe, it's been a while since I used it!), and I set this with the trigger halfway squeezed. So before I put the fluid cup on the gun I will set everything up and squeeze the trigger and set the gun pressure. I don't remember exactly but I want to say that to much or to little air pressure will send little blobs of fluid out instead of a smooth coat. If you set it around 15 or so you should be good, and can play with it from there if you want. My suggestion would be to set it up with some paint and some scrap and practice adjusting things to see what happens when you increase or decrease pressure and fluid.

As far as thinning each paint should say on the can how much to thin for spraying. Otherwise sherwin williams should be able to help you out, all of the employees I have talked to have been extremely helpful. I thinned my oil base with paint thinner up to about 10% percent, and water base with water up to about the same. Then I also use penetrol or floetrol depending on oil/water base. Mix it all up and run it threw a filter into the paint cup.

There is also a fluid control on the gun, I didn't mess with it too much.

Basically you want a nice atomization of the paint coming out of the gun, not enough pressure and it won't atomize right, too much pressure and you will have tons of overspray.

My best advice is to just mix up a cup of paint and start spraying on some scrap and purposely turning the pressure up and down so you can see what it does. Just play with it. That is how I learned most of how it works. Might be because I don't really know a lot about painting but my paint mixtures didn't seem to have matter if they weren't exact. Meaning I just kind of eyeballed paint, thinner, and floetrol. I kept the ratios really close but I wasn't perfect each time and I never noticed a difference in how it sprayed. The air pressure it the biggest thing and as long as you get it close it seems to work good. I'm sure if I or you did this everyday we would get really good and be able to dial things in better. But I was very happy with my results, I am a perfectionist when it comes to things like this and it turned out to my satisfaction. I think the gun is very user friendly.

 

[Plump]

Darn, I remember that same guy talking about the Wagner HVLP ratios for latex and I can't find it either! I seem to remember 20% and 10% for some reason but don't quote me on that. I have to agree with scott that it's going to be an eyeball test since each paint is going to be different. Get out some scrap and do some spraying. If it would ever warm up around here, I want to test mine out too!

 

[scott37300]

Darn, I remember that same guy talking about the Wagner HVLP ratios for latex and I can't find it either! I seem to remember 20% and 10% for some reason but don't quote me on that. I have to agree with scott that it's going to be an eyeball test since each paint is going to be different. Get out some scrap and do some spraying. If it would ever warm up around here, I want to test mine out too!

Ya I remember reading all sorts of great info from a couple of guys when I bought mine and I thought I saved it but I can't find it anywhere. The name Bob Mirani(sp) sticks out in my mind as being the one who knew a lot about paint and answered my questions on DIYchatroom but I could be wrong and I couldn't find any of my posts about HVLP spraying over there.

I did find this one at woodworkingtalk, http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f8/hvlp-spraying-help-10614/. It's not a lot of info but does have some info about adjustments.

I'm waiting for this snow to melt and warm up a little also. Hopefully that rain comes tomorrow to melt the 1-2 feet of snow we still have lingering around! I sprayed all my trim and everything last year, just haven't had time to get it up so that is on my priority list as soon as it gets warm enough out to set up the saws and go to town.

Good luck on the painting and I'll try my best to answer any questions that I can with my limited knowledge! Hopefully your sherwin williams has as knowledgable employees as mine does. The extra cost of the paint is well worth the help I get from them, and it's real help and not the BS that the box store employees try to pass onto you! Also if you are going to buy your paint from sherwin williams make sure you sign up to receive email sales. I get 30-40% off about once a month so the paint is very close in price to HD behr garbage. Just bought 2 gallons last weekend at 30% off.

 

[Plump]

Yeah scott, I get a nice discount at the Brookfield Sherwin Williams through work. I'll definitely sign up though for the email deals too!

Building a "paint room" in the garage too. Just using some PVC hung from the ceiling with some tarps on shower rings. Hopefully that will help keep everything from being covered in the paint dust that usually follows my garage painting projects.

 

[go_n_low88]

Scott,

Any chance you found the threads you reference above? I'm ready to break out the gun and start spraying, but I need to figure out how to get from here (sitting at the table) to there (sprayed trim). I need to figure out air pressure, solvent quantities, and...what else? What exactly am I looking for in the pressure and solvent, anyway? Lack of splatter? Good "flow" without being watery?

BTW, I'll be headed to the local Sherwin-Williams store shortly to get their input on my situation as well.

I would like to hear your reviews on the Wagner , as like other people mentioned. The reviews I have read said it was a "one" time use sprayer. Eventhough some people cleaned it back to new condition, the second time using it was garbage..

Let us hear about your experience!!!

 

[scott37300]

I would like to hear your reviews on the Wagner , as like other people mentioned. The reviews I have read said it was a "one" time use sprayer. Eventhough some people cleaned it back to new condition, the second time using it was garbage..

Let us hear about your experience!!!

There is a big difference between the wagner power painter you buy at home depot and the wagner HVLP conversion gun that runs on compressed air. All the reviews I read for the cheap, and not so cheap(2-300) wagner paint crews and what not were what you said, a one time use thing. But this wagner conversion HVLP gun is built a lot better. I have used mine many times over and as long as you take the gun apart to clean it it will last. It's basically a paint gun like you would use on a car, just different. I didn't read any reviews about this wagner being a one time use gun. You have any links to these reviews?

 

[motoguy]

I would like to hear your reviews on the Wagner , as like other people mentioned. The reviews I have read said it was a "one" time use sprayer. Eventhough some people cleaned it back to new condition, the second time using it was garbage..

Let us hear about your experience!!!

Are you referring to the Wagner "Power Painter" (which I picture in my first post), or the Wagner HVLP Conversion gun (which I actually purchased from Gleem paint)? I've read very little positive about the "Power Painter" (one time use, splatters, etc), but it seems the reviews of the HVLP gun (which I purchased) are universally positive (or nearly so).

http://www.gleempaint.com/hvcongunnew.html

 

[go_n_low88]

I believe it was the Wagner "Power Painter" , sells for something like $225. The HVLP one you show would definitely work better .