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QMark 0521 factory wiring question

walks

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Joined
Dec 2, 2022
Messages
6
Hi, I took a look through some of the threads for QMark and a couple already helped me with the wiring from the breaker but I have a question on the factory wiring on the control terminal board.

Some quick background on the unit. I got this second hand from my sister-in-law after her husband passed. She said he got it online but not sure from where. No box or manual. They hired someone to install it but he couldn't get it running so they bought a different unit and had that installed with no issue. When I got the QMark I found the install manual online and noticed that someone along the line switched the A1 & B1 wires to three phase. I'm thinking he got this off eBay and it was previously used in a commercial setting. Anyways, I set those back to one phase and got the unit to turn on. That's where I've hit a wall.

The heater is in a detached garage and it's currently 27 degrees outside. 35'ish in the garage. I'm using a single stage thermostat.

When flipping the breaker on, the heater turns on without the thermostat switched to on and the temp is set to the lowest temperature. The heater does not turn off (both heat and fan). I have H1 & H2 jumped per the instructions and am using P1 & H1 for the single stage thermostat connections. In addition, I've tried three brand new thermostats of different models and get the same result. I've also switched the thermostat wires around on the terminals for all three stats.

So to get to my question, I'm wondering if someone changed the A1 & B1 wires for three phase, what else might they have switched on the control terminal board or elsewhere? Comparing what I see on the diagram unit base to how it's wired something looks off. I'm pretty good at following things on a diagram but not an electrician so any help would be appreciated ( throwing some shade if necessary is welcome too ;) ).

Or, am I not being patient enough to wait if the heater does turn off after turning the breaker on? I've waited around 5 minutes max.

Pics are below. One curious item is the diagram explicitly states that the power terminal block is for use with copper connectors only. There is one wire I show below that does not match the other wires and what has, I'm guessing, aluminum connectors. I have doubts Marley did that if they stated to use only copper.

Thanks for any input you have - Paul


4.jpeg
0521 Diagram

2.jpeg
Aluminum connector mentioned above connected to P1. This is the only connection to P1 (P1 -> terminal block).

3.jpeg
End location of wire w/ aluminum connector (P1 -> terminal block)

5.jpeg
Control Terminal Board w/ thermostat connections

P1 P2.png
Backside of control terminal board. A1 wire is currently connected to H2 which is jumped to H1. A1 is connected to the terminal block first position.
Also, A1 wire from H2 terminal and wire from P1 are both connected to the same location on the terminal block.

9.jpeg
All current wiring

10.jpeg
Terminal block connections
 

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jlv03

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Jan 19, 2020
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351
Location
SE IA
What are you using for a thermostat? If I am seeing the diagram correctly (I also found another one online at: ), the thermostat needs to be line voltage rated.

You don't have aluminum wiring, you have a silver colored wire terminal on copper wires.

I would put a #10 wire between P1 and H1 and see what happens.
 
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walks

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Dec 2, 2022
Messages
6
I'm using a Honeywell Home Low-Temp Non Programmable Thermostat Model Number: CT50K1028E. The gent a Menards / electrical said it would work. In regard to aluminum I was talking about the connectors not the wire itself.

Are you saying to jump the P1 & H1 with #10 with no thermostat connected?

Thanks for the quick reply!
 

jlv03

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Jan 19, 2020
Messages
351
Location
SE IA
The connectors are likely plated material. I would not worry about that.

What I would worry about is using a low voltage thermostat on a high voltage (240VAC) connection.

Yes, jumper between P1 and H1 and see if it turns on. If it does, then the heater works. Next step would be to get a high voltage thermostat. Or is there a built in one? If so, you may have to find the wires for it and reattach to the backside of those terminals (P1/H1/P2/H2).
 
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walks

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Dec 2, 2022
Messages
6
The heater and fan goes on when I flip the breaker on. Based on what you're saying it sounds like I got incorrect advise on the thermostat. After reading an older thread earlier (sort of same issue) I picked up a Dyna-Glo 28A 240V Double-Pole Wall Thermostat today but haven't tried it out yet.

I'll still first jump P1 & H1 and use #10 wire as you mentioned. Assuming that works I'll run the Dyna-Glo to the heater with #10 as well. But, that will have to be tomorrow morning.

And to your point of the terminals I believe A1 needs to be moved to P2 based on the diagram.

Thanks again for your help!
 
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fitter30

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Jun 23, 2019
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Location
Peace Valley,mo
According to honeywell it a 24volt stat if voltage was applied it would of smoked it. There is no such thing as a three phase electric element there all single phase elements configure in 3 phase. Power block 3 terminals left to right 1-2-3. 1 &2 to 3 will be 240vac. Fan runs when power the fan delay is bad.
 

BillK

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Aug 24, 2006
Messages
9,413
Location
Beautiful Southern Maryland
This is directly from the QMark / Marley web site:

24V control transformer standard on most models, providing safer and more accurate means of temperature control. 3 kW and 5 kW, 208-277V, have line voltage controls as standard (24V control available on made-to-order basis)

It sounds to me like you need a line voltage thermostat like jlv03 said.
 
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walks

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Dec 2, 2022
Messages
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Unfortunately, got nothing but the heater and top bracket plate. No box, instructions, thermostat, or wall bracket. The manual was easy to find online. I plan to secure the heater to the ceiling with the top bracket plate and threaded rods. I picked up a Dyna-Glo 28A 240V Double-Pole Wall Thermostat over the weekend but haven't had a chance yet to get it installed. I hope to get it done this week.

Thx!
 
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walks

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Dec 2, 2022
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Hey all, I installed the 240 Dyno-Glo stat today and all is well. Used #10 wire throughout from the breaker to the stat to the heater. I just need to notch a new hole in the piece of drywall I took down for the new box (grounded) for the stat.

Thanks for your help/feedback/comments!
 
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walks

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Dec 2, 2022
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Well I thought I was done. YouTube is to me the greatest teaching tool but sometimes can lead you a stray.

After a couple calls to tech support at Marley I dumped the Dyna-Glo stat and, with a fair amount of difficulty, found a single pole line voltage stat at an Ace about 30 miles away on clearance. Since there is no off switch I did add a 30 amp switch so I can shut it down completely when I don't want it to run at own.

Now all is well for sure. The garage is not fully insulated yet but after 30 minutes the temp went from 40 to 55.

IMG_20221213_162705.jpg
 
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