Quality Micrometer Brands?
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CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
Quality is Mitutoyo. You can also go with Starrett, but their mics aren’t as good as Mitutoyo, IMHO. Do yourself a favor and get the ratchet thimble if you are going to be doing repetitive measurement taking. It provides a bit more consistency over the standard friction thimble unless you have a good feel for things.
Htscheg
Well-known member
Im a huge fan of Starrett, quality American Made products!!!!
NORTON'S SHOP
Well-known member
They are probably made by the same company....in China.
CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
The big reason I suggest Mitutoyo is because you can purchase their digital or mechanical outside mics for a very reasonable price especially for the quality you get. Starrett mics are very expensive, especially for their top-tier stuff. Unless you use mics every day and treat them right, I don’t see why you’d pass the Mits for a Starrett. And I have both brands.
Oh, also go carbide face. The regular steel faces get hosed over time.
Oh, also go carbide face. The regular steel faces get hosed over time.
CGarage
Well-known member
Mitutoyo.
Japanese quality control is arguably the best in the world.
Followed by the Swiss.
In my honest opinion, that is the order.
Starrett, with all of their global sourcing, is hardly American made these days.
Japanese quality control is arguably the best in the world.
Followed by the Swiss.
In my honest opinion, that is the order.
Starrett, with all of their global sourcing, is hardly American made these days.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
Mitutoyo, Chicago is the cheapest offering from Harbor Freight and Baileigh sells made in China metal bending stuff. Where did you come up with these two possibilities for precision instruments? SPI out of Switzerland makes very good stuff too.
milkovich
Well-known member
My .0001 Vernier mics are Chicago and I have no complaints. They seem similar or cheaper than Fowler or SPI. Probably the cheapest passable product. Digital calipers are iGauging or generic cheapos and they're good enough for woodworking. I'd love to buy Mitutoyo or Starrett but I'm not a machinist 
. I'm usually just double checking stuff when I get it home from the machine shop. Baileigh is part of JPW (Jet/Wilton) and they source some neat stuff, but I'm not sure of the quality levle they'd be sourcing for metrology.
. I'm usually just double checking stuff when I get it home from the machine shop. Baileigh is part of JPW (Jet/Wilton) and they source some neat stuff, but I'm not sure of the quality levle they'd be sourcing for metrology.
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rancherbill
Well-known member
Are you a precision machinist? If you are not any brand is a good brand.
I have a Mitutoyo as with anything good, it is being forged all over the place. If you want one by from a real dealer not something used.
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ToolFanGeoff
Well-known member
Milkovich, I believe you are off by a factor of 10 by sharing your Chicago vernier calipers read to .0001". I "suspect" you mean .001" (one thousandths, not one tenth of a thousandth).
jaymar (OP) If you a looking for a good quality measuring tool, I suggest Mitutoyo. Some of the smoothest and best calipers I have ever used were Helios - An amazingly nice German tool that felt perfect in my hand.
jaymar (OP) If you a looking for a good quality measuring tool, I suggest Mitutoyo. Some of the smoothest and best calipers I have ever used were Helios - An amazingly nice German tool that felt perfect in my hand.
Most of my micrometers I have bought used and they work fine as long as the anvils are good and someone didn't use it was a precision C clamp. I use gauge blocks to check my mics. I have Brown and Sharp, Starrett and Mitutoyo. I've tried the cheap ones before but it was hard to get repeatable measurements and even the gauge rods in the kits weren't accurate.
I haven’t found anything so cheap that isn’t good to a mil in the last few years including the no name stuff, but it’s probably out there somewhere. I’m pre-metric, so a mil means 0.001” to me. Price has really come down, even in nominal dollars over the last 40 years.
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BarrelRoll
Well-known member
I like Shars stuff for cheap measurement stuff. The other day I got underground to do an alignment, opened the door of the pickup, my test indicator in a case jumped out of the truck right into a puddle. I was glad it was a $30 special and not a $200 starett floating in a puddle.
I believe HF brands are Chicago Electric, and Pittsburgh. Chicago micrometers seem too pricey for HF. There are two questions--who makes quality stuff, and which of these--Chicago, Baileigh, Proform or Powerhouse--is best-in-group. Second question because I find myself with company credit at a reseller who carries Baileigh, Chicago, Proform and Powerhouse--and nothing else. So, looking for what's best there, and a broader perspective as well. [Updated original post for clarity.]
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rlitman
Well-known member
All of my SAE vernier scale micrometers read to 0.0001". The whole point of the vernier scale is to read out in tenths. My one NSK metric micrometer with a vernier scale reads to 0.001mm, but it's worthless at that scale if you don't have it held in a vise (the heat of your hand will throw it off way too much). Now vernier CALIPERS might read to 0.001", but the topic here is MICROMETERS.
I agree with the above mention of carbide faces. If I care enough to be using a micrometer, the last thing I want to worry about is if I'm trashing the faces by wiping dust off of them.
Not sure what you mean by "standard friction thimble". A standard thimble micrometer is just the thimble, and it leaves the operator up to screw up their measurement as badly as they want. Friction thimble (which I happen to prefer over ratchet, though the differences are subtle) is anything but standard.
LOL. "Chicago Brand" micrometers (I just had to look them up), are the same crappy Chinese imports as Baileigh and Pittsburgh (the actual HF brand).
GrayFlattop
Well-known member
Mitutoyo, Starrett or Brown & Sharpe are top-tier, but as was mentioned earlier, unless you are a machinist, likely any brand is fine.
Fowler is another decent piece - priced right. I have some of each - including Mitutoyo from 0" to 12". I should probably sell that set since I rarely use them any more.
If you are a machinist or might become one, invest in mics with Carbide face.
Fowler is another decent piece - priced right. I have some of each - including Mitutoyo from 0" to 12". I should probably sell that set since I rarely use them any more.
If you are a machinist or might become one, invest in mics with Carbide face.
If resulting parts don't require high spec, just about any modest micrometer will get the job done. It is nice to have quality tools yet spending Snap On $ when a Capri, Tekton will obtain results within the scope of the product is fine. I would suggest a look at iGauging.
I have Brown Sharpe, yet out in the workshop I'm using IGauging and it has not been discernible for the stuff I measure out. Saved me $ and when/if they get dropped, replacing them isn't as hurtful. Most survive the fall ok but if they take a hit at that bad spot, they are hosed. I haven't bought from HF though enough of my shop buddies use them for rough passes then use the Mitutoyos for the final critical measurements. These guys are machinists yet even some of their parts don't need that ultra precision as the tolerance spec is wide enough at the onset.
I have Brown Sharpe, yet out in the workshop I'm using IGauging and it has not been discernible for the stuff I measure out. Saved me $ and when/if they get dropped, replacing them isn't as hurtful. Most survive the fall ok but if they take a hit at that bad spot, they are hosed. I haven't bought from HF though enough of my shop buddies use them for rough passes then use the Mitutoyos for the final critical measurements. These guys are machinists yet even some of their parts don't need that ultra precision as the tolerance spec is wide enough at the onset.
CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
Standard friction thimbles are the default. Every micrometer has a friction thimble unless you spend more money and get the ratcheting thimble which works way better if you are taking a lot of measurements over an extended period of time because you can associate a number of ratchet clicks to a specific pressure. The standard friction thimbles leave it all to your feel which can be bad for new hands. Besides, you can use the thimble as a friction thimble on a ratcheting mic by just not using the ratcheting mechanism. Thus I recommend a ratcheting mic since you get the best of both worlds.
Noted about the ratcheting thimbles. One will get the feel for that particular mike. Between mikes they may feel different so taking repeatable measurements with different ones has had inconsistencies for me.
For the OP same for calipers, IMO. Woodworking can be very precise yet unlike metal characteristics wood moves sometimes significantly to make life a PITA at many instances. How some of the Japanese wood crafters assemble joints is amazing! I've got red and white oak among my stash that is aging at the 20 year mark. That stuff is really stable now.
This video from Stumpy Nubs about calipers: I have the fractional digital iGauging and find the fractions very useful for metal working more than I thought it would be. Many You be videos to provide more reviews and insights.
For the OP same for calipers, IMO. Woodworking can be very precise yet unlike metal characteristics wood moves sometimes significantly to make life a PITA at many instances. How some of the Japanese wood crafters assemble joints is amazing! I've got red and white oak among my stash that is aging at the 20 year mark. That stuff is really stable now.
This video from Stumpy Nubs about calipers: I have the fractional digital iGauging and find the fractions very useful for metal working more than I thought it would be. Many You be videos to provide more reviews and insights.
BarrelRoll
Well-known member
I have a husky digital caliper at home and a cheaper dial mititoyo at work. The cheap digital are great for the type of work you are asking about. I like how it does decimal inches, fractional inches, and mm. I use the fractional all the time for things like putting away drill bits. It's nice not having to look at charts like I do with my dial caliper at work. If you are getting into precision work where it matters a caliper usually isn't the too for the job.
For a DIY person or a beater work caliper the cheap digital are hard to beat. I feel a little bad dragging my Mititoyo around a mine working stuff covered in mine goo, water, mud, grease, rock dust, and hydro oil.
Here's the husky version, I'm sure you can get the caliper with a different label cheaper off Amazon.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-6-in-3-Mode-Digital-Fractional-Caliper-1467H/206007130
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
I like used mitutoyo calipers as the batteries last forever. Used Sherr Tumico Large vernier calipers from Minnesota can be purchased used for cheap for measuring big stuff.
I never heard of the brands. Mitutoyo here.
I'm a hobby machinist & to be honest, I've never heard of any of those brands for micrometers. I'm partial to Mitutoyo but I do have a few Starrett & Scherr-Tumico. I rather buy good used quality name brands than brand new low quality or generic brands.
For measuring tool that I will use often and/or depend on, I'll buy quality. If it's something that will not get used very much, maybe I'll cheap out a bit. But again I rather buy quality used than generic/cheap new.
Not anymore. Their name is misleading (Swiss Precision Instruments) but not very many of their tools are made in Switzerland these days. I don't know the entire history on them but SPI has been owned by MSC for quite sometime.
From what I know is they used to import certain tools from Switzerland & just put their name on them. They still do that today but not from Switzerland, much of their stuff is China. They're like Fowler, in fact some of the offerings from Fowler are the same exact stuff as SPI.
I have some SPI tools, they're not bad, some are better than most other generic China stuff.
txvwnut
Well-known member
The only budget brands I own are Central and Lufkin. Precision measuring is something I refuse to buy the store brand, especially since you can get the major names used and still in great shape for not much more than the house brands cost new.
Shop-hound
Well-known member
The whole point of a mic is to get greater precision than a vernier (very-near ) caliper. If you’re heading that way Id stick with quality stuff. I prefer North American manufactured products, but Mitutoyo has Starrett beat on mics, calipers and indicators so that would be my choice as well
) caliper. If you’re heading that way Id stick with quality stuff. I prefer North American manufactured products, but Mitutoyo has Starrett beat on mics, calipers and indicators so that would be my choice as wellgoldtang
Well-known member
Fitter and machinist by trade and my preference is Mitutoyo for measuring my thread gauges etc are moore and wright
MushCreek
Well-known member
My go-to is an Etalon, bought when I was still working as a mold maker. That said, I have a cheap set of 0-12" micrometers, made in Poland. I think I paid $140, brand new, many years ago. I can measure well within .001" with them, but I have almost 50 years of experience using micrometers. I also have an indicating micrometer, with a dial. You set it with gauge blocks. That sucker is really accurate. I have an old General micrometer, bought at a hardware store almost 50 years ago for $10, brand new. The plastic insulation grips fell off many years ago, so I don't know the country of origin. It is poorly made, yet still well within .001" accuracy. Once I need more accuracy than that, I use a different method to measure.
RoninB4
Well-known member
Retired tool/mold/die maker here that has owned/used most every brand still made and plenty no longer made. I buy per what the expectations are for the task. Buying high precision instruments should only be for high precision work or it's money wasted IMO. Milling/turning didn't really demand close tolerance readings because of dimensional change per the temperature. Even when I was surface/OD/ID grinding to +/- .0005 most any qualified micrometer would do. I have a set of instruments that only get used when the tolerance was +/- .0001. Reliable readings under .0005 are not as simple/easy as most people think they are. Calipers should NOT be trusted under +/- .003 for several reasons, digital doesn't guarantee better accuracy either.
For most general/occasional work about any of the previously mentioned brands from Chi-wan will do. Not much difference between them to make a difference. You're not using them often enough or require sub .001 accuracy anyway. For woodworking calipers I'd suggest a vernier type caliper. A dial caliper will get wood dust crushed into the rack/pinion mechanism and cause havoc. Digital may also experience fouling from wood dust, can't say for sure as I don't like/own digital. A vernier type doesn't have this potential problem, is easily cleaned and accurate enough for general work. It does require a bit more attention to learn how to use one but it's not that difficult, they served many industries for decades.
I own most of the usual name brands and agree with most of the previous postings. My favorite for resolution accuracy in a micrometer? Swiss made Etalon from the 80's. I've also bought well made brands that weren't new for shop spares instead of using what I bought new. Some of this post is JMO, some of it isn't an opinion. Disagree if you wish to, most of my opinion has been formed from working in metrology labs, trade journals, and the opinions of hundreds of other toolmakers I've worked with. The average garage shop work rarely requires .0001's accuracy.
For most general/occasional work about any of the previously mentioned brands from Chi-wan will do. Not much difference between them to make a difference. You're not using them often enough or require sub .001 accuracy anyway. For woodworking calipers I'd suggest a vernier type caliper. A dial caliper will get wood dust crushed into the rack/pinion mechanism and cause havoc. Digital may also experience fouling from wood dust, can't say for sure as I don't like/own digital. A vernier type doesn't have this potential problem, is easily cleaned and accurate enough for general work. It does require a bit more attention to learn how to use one but it's not that difficult, they served many industries for decades.
I own most of the usual name brands and agree with most of the previous postings. My favorite for resolution accuracy in a micrometer? Swiss made Etalon from the 80's. I've also bought well made brands that weren't new for shop spares instead of using what I bought new. Some of this post is JMO, some of it isn't an opinion. Disagree if you wish to, most of my opinion has been formed from working in metrology labs, trade journals, and the opinions of hundreds of other toolmakers I've worked with. The average garage shop work rarely requires .0001's accuracy.
My in shop at the machine tools stuff is mostly Mitutoyo but I have a bunch of cheap calipers and mikes to take out in tool bag. Re calipers: I find it is cheaper in the long run to buy good digitals as what they save in batteries and durability over the $40 **** actually pays back in long run. Still not taking my good stuff out of shop though.
rlitman
Well-known member
Ok, so I didn't mis-understand what you were saying. You were just flat out wrong. Thanks for the clarification.
Friction thimbles are NOT standard and are also not all that common. The typical micrometer has a standard knurled thimble, just as you described. On a friction thimble micrometer, that knurled section is a separate sleeve that fits over the thimble (usually well hidden), and that knurled sleeve slips rather freely in the tightening direction, but always turns with the spindle in the loosening direction. It does this using a spring hidden inside the thimble that gives a feel similar to a sprag clutch.
Here's an example video someone made that shows friction thimbles clearly:
Cc_windsurfer
Well-known member
I like Starrett.
There are companies like Ideal Precision Instrument Services that sell used micrometers that have been cleaned, tested, and verified to be working properly for very reasonable prices. Starrett, Mitutoyo, Brown & Sharp, etc can be had for something like $50.
If you need a mic, it is definitely worth stepping up from the newer imported junk.
There are companies like Ideal Precision Instrument Services that sell used micrometers that have been cleaned, tested, and verified to be working properly for very reasonable prices. Starrett, Mitutoyo, Brown & Sharp, etc can be had for something like $50.
If you need a mic, it is definitely worth stepping up from the newer imported junk.
Rusted Nut
Well-known member
I have several mics, depth gauges, dial indicators from Fowler Precision; very happy with all of them. Their upper end stuff is US made (I think it still is), their lower end is imported but good quality.
CHI_Tool&Die
Well-known member
You don’t have to be a **** about it. I was wrong and I’ll admit that. Friction thimbles are not the same as regular thimbles but I’ve probably seen a friction thimble only an handful of times and I’ve been in the trade for quite some time.Ok, so I didn't mis-understand what you were saying. You were just flat out wrong. Thanks for the clarification.
Friction thimbles are NOT standard and are also not all that common. The typical micrometer has a standard knurled thimble, just as you described. On a friction thimble micrometer, that knurled section is a separate sleeve that fits over the thimble (usually well hidden), and that knurled sleeve slips rather freely in the tightening direction, but always turns with the spindle in the loosening direction. It does this using a spring hidden inside the thimble that gives a feel similar to a sprag clutch.
Here's an example video someone made that shows friction thimbles clearly:
Note that while one of this guy's thimbles makes positive click sounds, it is NOT a ratchet thimble, since the spring itself is the ratchet dog. An actual ratchet thimble uses a one-way dog clutch like this:
RPH
Well-known member
Do that.
Then you will need several times a week. Just like insurance, you don’t need it till you do.
rlitman
Well-known member
Sorry, I was not intending to rub you the wrong way. Just want to set the record straight, but a few sentences in a post can easily be read with emotion that wasn't meant to be there.
I wouldn't say that friction thimbles are all that common (though I own at least 4 off the top of my head), but they can also easily hide in plain sight. Now you've got something new to look for. When you see and feel one, well you'll know what I mean (just like a ratchet thimble, they're a very tactile experience), but it's not really an "upgrade" from a ratchet thimble. Both are excellent, and both can give good readings in a skilled operator's hands.
For the record, for my purposes my $10 digital imported calipers are good enough for most measurements and I'll pull out my Etalon dial calipers if I need to be sure of something. If I need better precision than that, I'm not messing around with a crappy Asian micrometer, and I have a handful of truly good micrometers that come out of the drawer maybe once or twice a year.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
This entire question is weird if what you're measuring is wood. Normal expansion and contraction of that fickle material is far worse than the cheapest Chinesium calipers or mikes ever will be. If you're building engines or doing press fit bearings then accuracy between 0.001 and 0.0001 matters. If you're within 0.01 with wood who will ever know?