Not to be argumentative but that's where the operator comes in. You can get a good quality joint from a basic radio shack pencil. Even more likely with a Weller. That's where the operator comes in, you have to be able to recognize a cold solder and redo it or give it a few seconds to reach temp again/sponge off. No matter how good a tool, the operator has to be smarter than the tool. Period.
quality soldering iron
- Thread starter that-guy
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BirdMobile
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Solder temperature is more important than most people think, but not as critical as many in the industry would have us believe.
I would solder a pair of connections, one with my Weller bench station set to the exact temperature based on the solder composition, and another using the rudamentary temp control on my Portasol bhutane iron based on past experience using that tool. I would DEFY anyone here examining both to tell me which connection was made with which iron.
Again, it's not the tool that really matters... it's the skill, experience, and knowlege of the person using it.
I would solder a pair of connections, one with my Weller bench station set to the exact temperature based on the solder composition, and another using the rudamentary temp control on my Portasol bhutane iron based on past experience using that tool. I would DEFY anyone here examining both to tell me which connection was made with which iron.
Again, it's not the tool that really matters... it's the skill, experience, and knowlege of the person using it.
Monkey Milk
Well-known member
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
cheechi, I will agree that even with the proper tools it is how they are used. Proper Use and understanding is a must! "I am assuming that-guy is learning due to the nature of the post" It is better to learn with the proper tools vs. having to waste time, money, quality of end result. I am sure if he is building a wire harness it wants it to last and also look good! Proper tools will save him a lot of frustration in the long run!
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BirdMobile
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Indeed.
Bench station with temp control (preferably analog, IMO) is the best way to start out.
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
Yep... I hope our post move him in to the right direction.. Now days they are in expensive 10-15 years ago a 30-40.00 unit would have have been 130-140.00!
Don't forget QUALITY SOLDER. I've been soldering harnesses for many many years, and I refuse to use **** solder. If you don't have to use lead-free or mildly activated flux, DON'T! Get some Kester 44 w/66 core flux and you will be golden.
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
I would not buy a soldering iron for shipment from China or even Japan, as it could get lost or hung up in customs. But if you MUST have an overpriced Hakko, shioped from overseas, get it from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MQD7M4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
At least you are covered if it doesn't show up.
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
And get multiple diameter's also for the AWG of wire you are soldering. General auto wire about 14awg or Smaller should not be using any solder with a diameter larger than .031 I had a cheat sheet some place for wire size and optimum solder diameter for the kester brand. It is in their data sheet if i recall! Also need a silver chromate low resistance if soldering to any Fuel Injection or Ignition areas that wire resistance is critical. I believe kester it is 285 or 282 I have a spool of .010 or .015 on the shelf for the tiny 22awg Low R EFI wiring i fixed for a friend.
BTW, That-Guy what is the harness For?
Went and looked on the shelf it is Kester 275 .020 Low Corrosion, Low RES, No Clean about $100.00 a LB if I recall.
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Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
Never searched amazon hahaha I was just giving examples! Amazon is awesome!
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
that-guy, did you see my post about what you are using the harness for?
kiatech
Well-known member
At least someone knows what a good iron is.
It seems like EVERYONE has a Weller 8200 and they think there is nothing better.
Soldering stations are nice and all when you are soldering a harness or board on a bench. I would not use one when I am inside a wheel well of a car soldering a wire, or upside down under the dash. I need something portable and "wireless"
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
That-Guy have you looked in to Tefzel Wire "mill spec wire" if it is for a wheeler, bike or something that wires can be exposed to the elements.
My Friend of mine did his harness for his jeep in Tefzel yea, he works at an avionics shop so he labeled every wire with a corresponding number to his diagram for easy diagnosis final results was a very clean install. It was over kill! But hey depending on what the harness is for over kill is good.
The Teflon insulation is nice and strong and compared to vinyl automotive or gp grade wire.
My Friend of mine did his harness for his jeep in Tefzel yea, he works at an avionics shop so he labeled every wire with a corresponding number to his diagram for easy diagnosis final results was a very clean install. It was over kill! But hey depending on what the harness is for over kill is good.
The Teflon insulation is nice and strong and compared to vinyl automotive or gp grade wire.
I'm building an engine harness from scratch for a standalone system, and I am modifying my body harness for up to date lighting and hiding the wiring as best as possible
Contract_Pilot
Well-known member
That-Guy Another bonus with the Tefzel or Mill Spec wire is you can order how ever many conductors 2,4,6,10, Etc. so when you have a run of multiple wire you have a nice clean bundle with additional insulation for protection. For the ignition and stand alone FI you can get shielded wire. Also check out the heat resistance of the Insulation the stuff don't melt like vinyl.
Some Links.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/el/wire.html
https://www.prowireusa.com/c-32-m22759-16-tefzel-wire.aspx
Some Links.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/el/wire.html
https://www.prowireusa.com/c-32-m22759-16-tefzel-wire.aspx
I've already got all of my materials and such as per the instructions of the guy who built the ECU and will be tuning the car, everything is shielded and will be covered with Reychem and put through a D38999 connector in the wirewall, just trying to nail down a good soldering setup now
zach540
Active member
I've been using this model for years now, absolutely love it and have had no issues with it: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10707
Zach
Zach
that seems like a really good product at an awesome price...will def. have to consider this one
SASORacing
Well-known member
I have a butane blue point one, I love it so much not having a cord.
I really like my Hakko FX-888D, I bought this and my third hand from adafruit.com... prior to this I had a Radio Shack unit, not bad but the Hakko is far superior
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1204
Specs pulled from page
65 Watts
Ceramic Heater
Temperature Range: 120° - 899°F (50° - 480°C)
Temperature Stability: ±1.8°F (1.0°C)
Temperature Control: Closed-loop sensor
Dimensions: 100(W) x 120(H) x 120(D) mm, 3.9(W) x 4.7(H) x 4.7(D) in.
Weight: 2.6 lbs (1.2 kg)
ESD Safe: Yes
IPC J-STD-001: Meets or Exceeds requirements
900M-T-1.6D 1.6mm 'screwdriver' tip
For use in 120V countries only
UL Approved
http://www.adafruit.com/products/1204
Specs pulled from page
65 Watts
Ceramic Heater
Temperature Range: 120° - 899°F (50° - 480°C)
Temperature Stability: ±1.8°F (1.0°C)
Temperature Control: Closed-loop sensor
Dimensions: 100(W) x 120(H) x 120(D) mm, 3.9(W) x 4.7(H) x 4.7(D) in.
Weight: 2.6 lbs (1.2 kg)
ESD Safe: Yes
IPC J-STD-001: Meets or Exceeds requirements
900M-T-1.6D 1.6mm 'screwdriver' tip
For use in 120V countries only
UL Approved
I just got one of these. Havent done much soldering but this thing heats up fast and maintains the tmeperature well. Puts my old POS radio shack iron to shame. Very high quality. Im ecstatic to have it for years.
PBCampbell
Well-known member
I don't really do anything much related to electronics, at least nothing so heat sensitive that I've felt the need for temperature controlled irons. I have a liking for old style industrial irons like American Beauty and Hexacon. My favored irons are a bent style usually described as "hatchet" style or "Ergo". I'd suggest checking out the websites for those brands as there is some good information on them, particularly American Beauty.