Quality test leads

[Fluelikesymptoms]

I know this has been beat to death here, I'm looking at adding new leads to my dmm.

I only have standard leads and a thermocouple, I'm looking to get a quality set that includes alligator and needle backprobe tips.

I'd prefer a modular set that includes extra goodies and a compact case.

I know that you can use a safety pin, bulletin pin, and in desperate situations people like to fit small paperclips.

I however dont like doing that and would much rather prefer a real backprobe tip.

I looked at the fluke set and it looks like their tp40 set is only "tested" to 60vdc. Another requirement is I need the needles to be capable of 120vac. I looked at probe master and they dont seem to offer these leads in a deluxe set, but they have a separate SMD set that might actually be worth buying anyways and would probably work for back probing, although the leads are insulated to the tips which might not fit in a weather pack coupler. Also their SMD leads get thicker from the very tip back. (I've been tinkering alot with pcb boards more often because it is something I want to learn, I.E. need improvement, so an SMD set isnt completely of the question.)

Will the fluke leads still hold up to 120vac? Should I go with a probemaster deluxe kit + SMD kit?

Are there any other high quality test leads that fit the bill?

 

[Rabid Badger]

Probe Master products are universally higher quality than Fluke and almost always cheaper. There are a few specialty items they don't make that can be picked up through aeswave.com. 2ndGearRubber can tell you more about their stuff.

 

[jasonphelps]

Probe Master soft leads. I have their extendable leads and they are just ok, but the soft grip leads are excellent.
Also they are made in the San Diego area.

 

[MattT]

I looked at the fluke set and it looks like their tp40 set is only "tested" to 60vdc. Another requirement is I need the needles to be capable of 120vac.

The 60V rating is for safety. The long exposed pin with no finger guard is a shock hazard at higher voltage. Plus the flexible insulation part can slide down the pin exposing bare metal behind it

I use them with 120V when I have to. Just have to be very careful hooking them up.

I buy the Pomona 6411 which are the same as the TP40s. 10 in a pack for less money than the Fluke 5 pack.

 

[Diggiy]

Probe Master products are universally higher quality than Fluke and almost always cheaper. There are a few specialty items they don't make that can be picked up through aeswave.com. 2ndGearRubber can tell you more about their stuff.

+1

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've used basically any leads for 120v AC house wiring. I'm not an electrician by trade, but I see little reason why any name-brand or decent quality product wouldn't work.


For DC, while most probes/pins/leads are spec'd at 30volts constant exposure, even an automobile can create much higher voltages for very brief times. Injectors and primary ignition come to mind as creating much more during the "inductive kick". As a result, most use 10/1 attenuators for such measurement, to protect the scope.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9C3RSU/?tag=atomicindus08-20


IMO this is by far the best value for back probes. I also buy the generic red/black back-probes. I'm pretty rough on them, to me they're a consumable. Depends on how fast you're working and what you're doing.



https://www.aeswave.com/uTest-Advanced-Terminal-Test-Kit-p9715.html

Ultimate connector/pin-out kit. This is primarily focused at automotive.


https://www.aeswave.com/Alligator-Clip-Set-p8935.html

Gators - I haven't found any reason yet to upgrade from this style yet. Same design snap-on uses for their scopes.


https://www.aeswave.com/ST3-Shielded-Test-Leads-p9129.html

6 foot test lead pair; this is more of the lab-scope style. A pair of banana jacks fuse into a single wire, then split again about 2/3 feet from the end.

OR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MC34KTU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

AST makes very nice, gummy, flexable leads. I have a few sets.



FWIW: There are still times a t-pin from walmart is the best tool for the job. Keep some in your box too.

 

[Lassen Forge]

My Flukes work fine up to 119.3 volts AC, and the probemasters I got to replace the ones on my old Simpson work fine up to EU house voltage (247 volts) as well. Either way, I won't snivel about either, and both work fine.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Agreed, its voltage exposure we're talking about. No current flow to speak of. I'm sure the leads that come with a free harbor freight meter are acceptable to use on basically anything the DIY guy will see. I've checked wall voltage with a HF freebie.

 

[Tallpilot]

https://www.aeswave.com/uMicroBackProbe-Minimum-impact-probe-for-high-density-connectors-p9481.html

I think this is the only thing you forgot 2ndGearRubber. They are a little bit thinner for particularly delicate connectors and the silicone can protect from accidentally shorting two pins in a high density connector.

I agree with you about the Tool-aid ones. They are decent quality and cheap enough you don't care if they get destroyed. They are good for everyday.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I have 2 sets of the micro-probes, plus the two individuals that come in the test-lead kit I linked.

I normally peel the insulation/silicone back a bit, or lube with dielectric grease. They can have a tough time penetrating hardened seals, due to the limited availability of surface area on which to push them in. I've always preferred the type that go straight into the banana jack, making a semi-ridgid probe with the needle at the end. But the micro-backprobe is a must have when you need it.

 

[Tallpilot]

I have 2 sets of the micro-probes, plus the two individuals that come in the test-lead kit I linked.

I normally peel the insulation/silicone back a bit, or lube with dielectric grease. They can have a tough time penetrating hardened seals, due to the limited availability of surface area on which to push them in. I've always preferred the type that go straight into the banana jack, making a semi-ridgid probe with the needle at the end. But the micro-backprobe is a must have when you need it.

I forgot that the big kit has a couple in it. I keep leads, alligators and probes in my scope case as a grab and go so I only bring out the big kit when I know I’m going to be front probing.

It’s a tough pill to swallow because of the price but anybody planning to do serious automotive electrical should get it. Nothing else comes close to being as comprehensive.