Quality trailer wire connectors

[dirttracker18]

I live in a area that is hard on parts especially trailer connectors. I had a connector break off the wires again today.

Who makes quality connectors, where can I get them and what is the best practice to attach the new connector to the current trailer wires?

 

[dirttracker18]

Bump to try again

 

[64Trvlr]

If you're talking about the connector from the trailer to tow vehicle what do you need, flat 4 or 5, round 6 or 7 wire?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I usually buy whatever TSC has in stock, Hopkins. The last few times I've done something I have soldered it and used heatshrink.

 

[dirttracker18]

In this case, flat 4 pin.

I am just tired of the junk big box parts that consistently let me down.

 

[Falcon67]

I'd upgrade the trailer and two to a 7 pin RV connector. That's all we use and they don't fall apart.

 

[mikester]

From what I can tell theres only a few ready made trailer harnesses made. I helped rewire my friends open deck car trailer and he used a common store bought harness and we soldered the marker light wires into it where needed. I did the same to my 6x12 landscape trailer a month ago.
My next project this spring will be rewiring my own open car trailer. The only difference this time will be me using marine grade shrink tubing with the sealer. Its a pretty easy job to do as long as you have a decent soldering gun, the right rosen core solder and a heatgun. I bought a roll of split wire loom when I did my trailer and it kept the job really neat. I think I used the typical Reese brand wire set.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Don't waste your time soldering the wires. You will likely have to replace them sooner rather than later.

I have the big round 7 blade connector on my E150. The adapter to 4 oin cost me almost $20 dollars so I actually use a piece of thin nylon cord as a "safety" and tie it to the receptacle on the truck. I do the same with the 4 pin harness from my boat trailer.

It looks hookey but it works !

 

[c4cruiser]

Places like eTrailer have different lengths of pre-made wiring harnesses. I would go with a 7-pin connector on the tow vehicle and install it so that it comes out either in a part of the rear bumper (like later model Chevy pickups) or above it. At the very least, build or buy a metal box that can be attached to the bumper or rear crossmember to protect the connector and wiring.

For the trailer, you can get 7-pin harnesses that are about 5-6' long. The connector and outside cover is hard rubber and pretty much waterproof. The other end will have bare leads that you can splice into the trailer wiring.

If your trailer just has lights, you only need to splice in the appropriate leads. The big plus will be the heavy-duty connection and the rubberized harness.

 

[ishiboo]

I'd go 7-pin as well... all my stuff is 7-pin and it deals much better with the cycles of connecting/disconnecting, though I still have to replace one once and a while due to corrosion.

 

[dirttracker18]

The factory connection on my F150 has given me no issues. It is always the trailer end.

I think everyone is right. Use a 7 pin round and make connections inside. I would think a generous amount of dielectric grease inside would help make things last longer.

Any good brand name connectors and/or place to get them?

 

[gte718p]

I buy all my cabling and connectors from these guys. http://genuinedealz.com/
They have trailer wiring, for the plug I just just the generic TSC 7 prong plug. I've never had any problem with it. All connections are crimped with marine grade heat shrink. My trailer is abused. I've lived withing .25 mile of the ocean for the last 5 years. Right now its actually stored within 100 yards of the ocean. I beat on it taking it offroad and put it away without any maintenance. Since I switched to marine wiring I have not had a problem.

I really like genuinedealz. I buy all my wiring, connectors, and switches from them. They are great to work with, have good prices, and generally ship the same day I order.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

www.waytekwire.com sells 3M **** and splice connectors with a silicone gel material to stop water and dirt egress. Also, http://www.delcity.net/store/Cool!Seal-****-Connector/p_802081

 

[mikester]

If I was having that much of a problem with the end I wouldnt change it to a 7 pin. That seems like a huge overkill and not every truck has a 7 pin recepticle. I would buy a junction box from a truck parts supply, run all of the wires into that and then from there I would just use a 4 wire lead with the 4 pin connector on it. This way if the plug goes bad down the road all youre replacing is the short run by disconnecting it at the box. Just a matter of a few nuts and the 2 screws holding the top on. Thats the way we did my friends car trailer and thats the way Im doing my own. And if you want to use the 4 pin on a truck with a 7 recepticle just get the draw-tite adapter. None of my trucks ever had a 4 pin setup. Chevy included an adapter when you got a tow package years ago and Ive never had a problem using it.

 

[Cardboard Man]

^^^^ This. I've had my trailer set up this way for several years now. Adding the junction box was money well spent.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I would go so far as to put a 7 pin (flat) receptacle on the tow vehicle and then a 7 pin plug on all of your trailers. Don't worry about hooking up the "extra" wires it they are not already run to the back of the vehicle, unless you think your going to be needing a trailer with electric brakes. (Of course that means you need an electric brake controller in the cab.).

I have had good luck with Pollak connectors.


If you are replacing any wire, I strongly suggest you use pre-tinned, "marine grade" wire. The individual copper strands are dipped in tin before being twisted together. It will not react with moisture. It is also easier to solder, but I still think that is overkill, especially if you use marine grade heat shrink.

 

[dirttracker18]

I already have both 7 and 4 pin factory connections on my F150 and brake controller for my heavy trailers and TT. Never had an issue with that. If I did I would change back to the T connection in the factory harness.

Doing that with a box on the trailer sounds good. Do they make a good weatherproof box for that?

 

[bczygan]

I live in a area that is hard on parts especially trailer connectors. I had a connector break off the wires again today.

Who makes quality connectors, where can I get them and what is the best practice to attach the new connector to the current trailer wires?

Sounds like you get road salt from winter salting.

I think trailer wiring can be a combination of problems starting with the environment they are in, out in all kinds of weather, salt, rain, sun, close to the ground, attacked by road debris and bounced around. Add to that the minimalist quality of wiring sets and lack of support and a recipe for problems is there. Ultralight aircraft face some of the same problems and there are things you can do to minimize them. Here's what I am going to do when I rebuild the wiring on my utility trailer.

LED lighting to replace incandescent that can vibrate and have bulbs fail. This also helps with water intrusion.
Connections. Soldered connections tend to break at the solder joint because the wire flexes and there is resistance there. One solution people try is a screw and terminal connection. But the real problem is movement. So I will try to immobilize the connection and the wire adjacent to the connection so there is less movement at that joint. More frequent or continuous support of the wiring would help, especially near connections. In either case the connection needs to be sealed against air and water with the appropriate connector.
I would use larger size stranded copper wiring than the kits contain with a quality UV resistant sheath.
For any pull apart connectors I would remember to use dielectric grease.
Minimize connections. I would rather run more wire. Combine connections. Try to group connections in one protected spot.

Any other ideas?

 

[carhunter]

I used to use only Pollack 7-round pin semi truck connectors on my pickups and trailers. They're all metal construction and will take some abuse.

Problem was that's not a common connector so every rig I bought had to be changed over. But it keeps anyone else from using your stuff

Since then I've gone back to the plastic RV connectors and have broken 1 already...

 

[64Trvlr]

All 3 of my trailers have the 7 pin plug on them. All my vehicles either came with or I installed a 7 pin (RV) plug on them.

All my trailers have back up lights, elec brakes and batteries on them (camper has 2 batts, other trailers have winches). After a while you'll find plenty of uses for the 7 pin.

I use a mixture of Pollak, Cole Hersey and Grote for my stuff.

 

[mikester]

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Hidden-Hitch/38656.html

Hope the link works, but this is what Im talking about as a junction box. As far as going for that 7 pin connector, I really think thats crazy unless its a trailer with brakes. My 6.5x12landscape trailer has a 4 pin. Every now and then I lend it out to one of my friends. Most guys I know have a 4 pin set up because they usually tow boat trailers or smaller utility trailers. You can adapt the 4 to a 7 a lot easier than the other way around.