Quarry or porcelain tile?

[Karl in NY]

24x24 garage located in extreme northern area...near Canadian border.

I'm looking for a permanent floor covering and am considering either porcelain or quarry tile over a newly poured slab, with center floor floor drain with very slight pitch.

I'm considering ceramic of some type, probably with conventional latex-modified (as opposed to epoxy grout, to limit expenses) most likely in black color.

Under consideration is a thinset application, probably with a cleavage membrane such as Ditra. The tile would need to have an abrasive top surface, to avoid skidding the car through the back wall of the garage in wet or icy conditions. Quarry seems to be more available in slip-resident versions, and some versions are claimed to be frostproof, as are nearly all porcelain products. I would even consider ceramic mosaics, although they typically are quite thin compared to quarry.

Considering climate, material, and technique, does this sound sustainable?
I assume I would need some expansion/control joints, which would be caulked, as well as a perimeter space covered with molding, rather than caulked.

This is a heavy road-salt area, so, maybe the black grout is too dark.

I have a tile-setter currently laid-off his union job, and is willing to work "under the table" at very reasonable hourly rates, as long as I work as his laborer.

Thoughts?

 

[JimVonBaden]

You should talk with your tile setter. I imagine his experience would help.

Personally I would go with Porcelain. It is harder than most anything else, color through in most cases, and can be had with a non-slip type surface. I used it on my portch.

I'm far from a pro, but I think it came out pretty nice. It should hold up well to mother nature, and it is not slippery when wet.

I did my garage in VCT before I realized the benifits of Porcelain tile or I would definitely have done it in porcelain.

Jim

 

[Dakota00]

24x24 garage located in extreme northern area...near Canadian border.

I'm looking for a permanent floor covering and am considering either porcelain or quarry tile over a newly poured slab, with center floor floor drain with very slight pitch.

I'm considering ceramic of some type, probably with conventional latex-modified (as opposed to epoxy grout, to limit expenses) most likely in black color.

Under consideration is a thinset application, probably with a cleavage membrane such as Ditra. The tile would need to have an abrasive top surface, to avoid skidding the car through the back wall of the garage in wet or icy conditions. Quarry seems to be more available in slip-resident versions, and some versions are claimed to be frostproof, as are nearly all porcelain products. I would even consider ceramic mosaics, although they typically are quite thin compared to quarry.

Considering climate, material, and technique, does this sound sustainable?
I assume I would need some expansion/control joints, which would be caulked, as well as a perimeter space covered with molding, rather than caulked.

This is a heavy road-salt area, so, maybe the black grout is too dark.

I have a tile-setter currently laid-off his union job, and is willing to work "under the table" at very reasonable hourly rates, as long as I work as his laborer.

Thoughts?

Excellent choice in flooring material!! Porcelain is definitely the way to go. It's not hard to find an anti-slip finish tile. As I just finish tiling my garage not too long ago, using a structured finished full body porcelain tile. You can click on my thread in my sig to see all the details.

Personally Ditra in a garage is a waste money, unless the floor is badly cracked and even then it's not guarantee to work. Seeing as your slab is fairly new. You can use if you like, a roll on crack isolating membrane.

Thinset must have latex or a latex additive that is added to the mix. This is important for freeze/thaw climates like ours. I used the Kerabond/Keralastic System from Mapei.

As for grout if you are looking to save money, you can use a good quality sanded grout in the medium to darker tones then finish up with a sealer. But personally for a few $$$$ more you can get an exterior grout which is designed to take the abuse, stain proof, waterproof, resistance to oil and acid.

If the slab has control joints, you can respect them by tiling your grout joints on top of the control joints. And then Silicone that joint like you mentioned. As for the perimeter walls, you can do a base molding of 4"-5" all the way around to finish up the look.