Query for woodworkers

[twarren]

I have built a cedar chest and askig opinions for an outside finish. The log was cut four years ago with the lumber milled in early September this year. Last week I planed the lumber and built the chest.

My local Home hardware advises that the wood is still somewhat green and may not take a varathane finish well. I looked at tong and lemon oil finishes and am undecided.

The finished product has to be done for Christmas.

Suggestions?

Warren...............

 

[amguttin]

best thing to do is buy a cheap moisture tester and find out for your self

 

[Nor'Easter]

Depending on where the specific pieces were in the log, it could still have a higher moisture content than what would be acceptable for cabinets and what not. You'll be alright using most anything as long as it is not a sealer. You want something that will control the exit of moisture such as an oil, we use Heritage Natural Finish on our timber frames to do just this.

 

[404]

Watco oil or similar looks nice. The rags used to apply it will absolutely self ignite if left in a ball. Put the rags laid out flat one at a time far FAR far away from the house on a surface that does not catch fire. Parking lot of a mall far far away is good.

DO NOT leave them in a ball in the house.

Yes I am ranting, but a large number of new homes have burned when the rags were left in the house after finishing the hardwood floors.

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/danish-oil

 

[MoonRise]

Get a moisture meter and test the actual moisture level of the wood. (probably should have done this before actually building the project, to minimize or avoid excess shrinkage of the wood and its possible joint gaps in the finished project. Should usually do this before using non-kiln-dried wood where the wood's moisture level has not been 'forced' to be furniture-level dry.)

And about a +999 on being VERY careful of the possible fire hazards of oil-based finishes and wadded-up application rags.

 

[manwithtools]

Depending on where the specific pieces were in the log, it could still have a higher moisture content than what would be acceptable for cabinets and what not. You'll be alright using most anything as long as it is not a sealer. You want something that will control the exit of moisture such as an oil, we use Heritage Natural Finish on our timber frames to do just this.

This is the correct answer. Nothing that seals is the secret, natural oils are the best in a condition such as this. Wood breathes for it's entire existence. Don't try to fight it, let it acclimate to it's environment. Slow movement in either direction is fine, it's rapid changes that are the enemy. The natural oil finish is the best way to allow a slow change.

 

[twarren]

So, tong, linseed or Danish oil?

Warren.......

 

[RickP]

I've always liked tung oil myself:

 

[BMW Rider]

If the entire chest is cedar, I would go with an oil type finish like tung oil or danish oil. Cedar is very soft and a hard finish like Varathane will be easily marred on the softer wood. An oil type finish will not show marks as readily and is very easy to touch up.

 

[gungatim]

just keep in mine most of the "tung Oil" or "Danish Oil" on the market has little or no tung or oil in it...most is just thinned varnish...(lots of wood mag articles on the subject).

personally don't care for BLO (boiled linseed oil) but lots of guys like it. just takes too long and too many coats and sticky drying time for me...

I use satin/flat polyurethane or clear lacquer if you can find it on almost all of my woodworking projects. whatever you do, don't do the inside of the chest or you will not get the aromatic benefits of cedar on the clothes...

 

[chruler]

I've used tung oil quite a bit and like the way it's easy to apply in very thin coats and buffs up easily too.

 

[kbs2244]

Why would you put any finish on Cedar?
Isn't the raw wood smell the feature you want?

 

[chruler]

You put the finish on the outside and leave the inside raw.

 

[Junkmanryan]

I vote leave it unfinished for now. I assume these boards are planed to 3/4. Give it until next September to dry, then finish it.

 

[Junkmanryan]

You put the finish on the outside and leave the inside raw.

Or this.

 

[P51Boilermaker]

best thing to do is buy a cheap moisture tester and find out for your self

+1 on the moisture tester. Should be single digits as far as allowable moisture goes but don't quote me on that.

I would consider an oil finish as well. I love Danish oil but it doesn't provide a hard or very protective finish. I usually use the natural color danish oil and then polyurethane over that and have had pretty good success over the years.

Leave the inside unfinished! Otherwise you'll be covering up the aromatic cedar smell!

 

[RivennHewn]

My favorite finish is equal parts tung oil, varnish and turpentine.

It's very easy to work with, repairs easy and smells great!

 

[Craptain]

Personally I would leave it raw for now but if you have to do something consider a simple wax finish. Has the advantages of oil finish but there is no varnish content. As others implied any kind of sealer is unwise, yet most of the premixed/prepackaged oils include some varnish.

 

[TMcCay]

+1 on not treating the inside. If you treat the inside it will seal the cedar smell and that is not what you want for a cedar chest. Also if the cedar smell starts to weaken some just hit it with some 220 grit paper or a little finer to open the wood to release more of that great cedar smell.
It is that cedar smell that keeps the bugs away from your clothes and blankets.

 

[John Hyatt]

Another big thumbs up for Watco.

I love that stuff !! It can be built up to a semi gloss but time is needed in-between coats.

J.

 

[MarkG]

I've used Watco as well as mixing my own concoctions too, as others have mentioned. The key is PATIENCE and a lot of coats, wiping off well after getting it good and saturated. Also, do NOT coat the inside! You will still smell the varnish/oil years later-----you WANT to smell cedar, not varnish!

 

[BioNerd]

I would wax it, it will age better i think. darker wax in corners, moldings, profiles, etc will look aged.

I think that softwoods are best used in "distressed" pieces... a rougher, more vintage look.

I think Polys, shellac, and varnishes are best looking over time on hardwoods.

I personally don't like smelling cedar because its sawdust makes me have an allergic reaction, like redwood does too.

I like the idea of leaving the inside raw but I wander how that would affect the movement of the wood. It would be nice to see pics.

 

[twarren]

I know we all like pictures so....

Here is a couple of photos, before and after with one coat of boiled linseed oil applied.
I chose linseed simply because I happened to have some.

Three days and three coats later the finish seems alright, (I wiped each coat dry with a cloth) but I really don't like the linseed oil smell and the grand daughter I am giving the chest to probably won't like the smell either(!)

Any suggestions on a better oil smell? The inside will remain raw and does smell nicely cedarish.

The third picture is where the wood came from.
Warren..........

 

[Nor'Easter]

Howards Feed n Wax smells pretty good. Never put it on cedar, only cherry and poplar wood turnings.