Might want to check into the form you have to sign, I dont think its as clear cut since you know its got issues. Might want to have your lawyer advise you on this when you do fill it out, so you are not caught later defending yourself.
Quest to PVC piping
- Thread starter red94chev
- Start date
Might want to check into the form you have to sign, I dont think its as clear cut since you know its got issues. Might want to have your lawyer advise you on this when you do fill it out, so you are not caught later defending yourself.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
No, they warrantee the fitting, and the fitting only for 25 years if you still have the original receipt and cut the pipe on both sides sending it in. So now you need two fitting and a short section of pipe to repair just to get one fitting replaced. You have to pay shipping to get the fitting and pipe there. What a new fitting cost? $6-10 depending on size/style. A medium flat rate the other day was $13 and some change. Sounds like a useless warrantee to me?
Damages due to the leak are for 10 years only. Seen leaks cause 10k plus in damage.
Thanks for pointing it out. Makes it even easier as their faith in their product is even less than the 15-20 years I was giving it.
Quote from the sharkbite warrantee
" Notwithstanding anything to the contrary in this Limited Warranty, if RWC determines that any damages to the real property in which a defective product was installed were the direct result of a leak or failure caused by a defect in material or workmanship in any RWC product covered by this Limited Warranty and occurring within the first ten years after date of purchase or during the applicable Warranty Period, whichever is shorter, and if reasonable steps were taken to promptly limit or stop the effects of such leak or failure as soon as it was discovered, then RWC will reimburse the property owner for the reasonable costs of repairing or replacing such damaged real property to include flooring, drywall and painting and other real property damaged by the leak directly caused by the allegedly defective RWC product. Except as specified above or otherwise specifically authorized in writing by RWC, RWC shall not pay for any costs or expenses for transportation, relocation, labor, repairs or any other work associated with removing and/or returning failed or defective products or installing replacement products.
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acer66
Well-known member
Yeah, the inspector is local and very well rated but didn't say a thing about the pipe. He sure did point out that crack in the driveway though
It's not the end of the world though, there isn't much plumping in the house anyway so I'll be able to take care of it. And the girlfriends dad is a contractor so he'll be able to help me. I still got a good deal on the place (3 car garage, full house generator, newer roofs, new basement remodel, pellet stove, newer HVAC). It just blows my mind that nobody ever said anything about the PB.
Replace it with Pex. I replumbed my entire house (1959 galvanized piping which had shrunk down to being unusable) in under 2 weeks back in Feb. I believe the total cost was just over $1k, including the cost of the tool and paying for an expensive manifold rather than doing a trunk and branch system. Every fixture has it's own dedicated line from the central manifold with no fittings under the house so it's easy to shut off and no leak prone areas that I wouldn't notice for a while.
Mid-install, can see the lot of piping and the manifold.
I really like the manifold idea with a line for each fixture.
How tight can the pex line be bent reliably? And does it hold it's shape or does it want to be straight?
Also, has anyone used this place to get their PEX? Is Bluefin better or worse than AquaPEX?
Manifolds are nice, but involve pulling more pipe. I ran mine with copper pre-made manifolds (home depot had them, as well as amazon) and ball valves. Came in a lot cheaper then the pre-mades, but I guess not as clean looking.
I bought my pex rolls at HD. A couple bucks more was worth the convenience.
Considering that 80% of the homes plumbing is right above the basement bathroom, I think the manifold would be the easiest way to replace it all instead of branching it all off and then covering it back up with the bathroom drywall.
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Firebrick43
Well-known member
Tight bends in pex need to use these
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-A5150375-3-8-Plastic-Bend-Support-2127000-p
Don't see what place your asking about. I can recommend supplyhouse.com however. Awesome service and selection
As far as bluefin vs aquapex. Bluefin is pex B. Aqua pex is the original pex and is refered to as pex A.
The original wirsbo (now uponor) system called propex, uses a pex sleeve slid over the pex tube which was expanded with a special tool. After expanding you had 5 seconds or so to slip the fitting in and the pex would try to return to it oringinal shape due to its cross linking. The fittings are larger(OD) than the inside diameter of the pipe so the pipe and ring form a vise like grip on the fitting. Several advantages include better flow as crimp type fittings restrict the flow greatly due to being much small I'd than the tube. The fitting connection is pretty fool proof, if the fitting is in its good. Can't miss or under crimp. With the tube itself the cross linking is superior to pex B or C and has better kink resistance. Also if you kink B or C you HAVE to cut it out and splice. If you kink A you can work it out with a heat gun.
Pex B and later C use a different and cheaper cross linking chemical process during manufacture. The manufactures didn't feel that it needed as much cross linking as the tubing is not stretched/expanded as with the wirsbo propex system. I would stay clear of pex C.
You may of noticed I am a wirsbo propex fan. The Milwaukee m12 expander can be found for $400 dollars which turns many off. However if you keep it clean you can typically sell it for $350 on eBay after you are done. Cheaper than a pair of decent crimpers and its so much nicer to use.
I personally use wirsbo fitting with Mr Pex pex A tubing from supply house. Mr Pex was started by the engineer(inventor?) responsible for bringing pex tubing to the world. After he left wirsbo he started his own company. Cheaper than wirsbo but still more than much of the pex b tubing. Pex A can be use with crimp fittings.
Sorry, I forgot to link it but Supply House is what I was talking about. Will Mr. PEX work with anything from the crimp fitting system here? https://www.supplyhouse.com/PEX-Crimp-Fittings-543000
JMartel
Well-known member
I bought everything from supplyhouse as well. Use the plastic bend supports for tight radius (~3-4" radius) bends.
Home run system like mine is more pipe, yes. But it's also way more convenient, and you're only clearing out a 3/8" line to most fixtures when running hot water, so you don't have to wait long for it to heat up. The added advantage is you can shut off any individual fixture very easily at the manifold. A bit more money in piping, a bit less in fittings, more money for a manifold (mine was $160 I believe?), but it's a great system. I wouldn't want a trunk and branch system or mini-manifolds unless I could get to every fitting easily without having to go under the house. As of now, I only have fittings under the house where the water line comes in, and at 3 hose bibb connections. That's it. Everything else is solid tube so there's less failure points.
Also worth noting, that with all of those connections and it being my first time using PEX, I never had a bad connection. No leaks, everything was quick and easy. I wouldn't have been able to say that with sweating copper.
Home run system like mine is more pipe, yes. But it's also way more convenient, and you're only clearing out a 3/8" line to most fixtures when running hot water, so you don't have to wait long for it to heat up. The added advantage is you can shut off any individual fixture very easily at the manifold. A bit more money in piping, a bit less in fittings, more money for a manifold (mine was $160 I believe?), but it's a great system. I wouldn't want a trunk and branch system or mini-manifolds unless I could get to every fitting easily without having to go under the house. As of now, I only have fittings under the house where the water line comes in, and at 3 hose bibb connections. That's it. Everything else is solid tube so there's less failure points.
Also worth noting, that with all of those connections and it being my first time using PEX, I never had a bad connection. No leaks, everything was quick and easy. I wouldn't have been able to say that with sweating copper.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Yes. For clarity sake the "crimp" brass fittings are standard F1807.
The propex and souix Chiefs version powerpex are standard F1960.
The crimp style f1807 fittings will work with pex A, B, and C.
The f1960 propex fittings work with Pex A only.
The is also viaga pex with use a completely different system and other than a general idea of it I don't know about the compatibility of its tubing with f1807 or f1960 fittings.