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Question about 220v receptacles

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Hollywood D

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When I had my garage built I had them put in a 220v outlet in case I ever needed it. Well now I need it. It has this type of 30A outlet
https://www.zoro.com/leviton-electr...rJTa_75AADOvWM-h-X-8v1yA3UyDeujkaAlo6EALw_wcB

I think it might be called a Type E?

I'm buying a bigger table saw that runs on 220 and uses a Nema 6-20 cord. Is there an adapter one can buy or do I need to install a new receptacle? I don't know squat about 220 and a google search didn't help any. It's for a sawstop saw if it makes any difference.
 
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Hollywood D

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I'm not comfortable changing breaker on my own. I'll just go with the adapter.

I'd like to keep the 30a receptacle. Never know down the road
 
Last edited:
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Viper98912

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Wow! $50 for a plug adapter wire? It's $5 for the right receptacle and $12 for the correct dual breaker (approximately).

Do the right thing and do it correctly. Even the more expensive route ($50 plug) still runs on the 30 amp breaker, which isn't correct.

If you turn off the main feed to your panel, you should be generally ok to replace the breaker. If you're unsure, hire someone. Be aware that anything "above/before" the main breaker is live and could cause you significant injury or worse.
 
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u2slow

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klassenl said:
Why.
Click to expand...

Because you have 30A available to a machine that's built intended for use with a 20A breaker for protection. Just like you don't go adapting your vacuum or shaver to use a stove or laundry receptacle.

What works best in my shop is to have several general-use 6-20R's on a 20A circuit; then have a dedicated 30-50A circuit run to the one machine that needs it.
 
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pattenp

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If you happened to notice, the adapter does not carry a UL or any type of listing stating it has been tested and is safe. Why not is because it would not pass any safety tests.
 
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Lassen Forge

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u2slow said:
Because you have 30A available to a machine that's built intended for use with a 20A breaker for protection. Just like you don't go adapting your vacuum or shaver to use a stove or laundry receptacle.
Click to expand...

NOOOO!!!!! Wrong wrong wrong.

The breaker is there to protect the WIRING IN THE BUILDING, not the machine. It's a safety device for the house (or shop) wiring, not some magical pressure regulator for electrical amps.

People say this backwards and it's wrong, wrong wrong - That's like saying if you have a 60 watt light (a 60 watt bulb is thereabouts 1/2 amp at 120V) plugged into a 20 amp wall circuit, the lamp will explode from all the extra amps your breaker is feeding it.

Give it a try - turn on a desk lamp, and watch the bulb explode... not.

And comparing a 120V appliance (Shaver, Vacuum) to a 230V appliance (stove, dryer) is like comparing lemons to lumber.

I don't mean to be offensive, but people who say such things need to take a course in basic electricity. And how the electric systems being delivered to your home or shop work. Or at LEAST talk to an electrician. Ok? Please?
 
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cosmopedro

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^^^^ Advice to LIVE by…

If you’re uncomfortable swapping out a breaker and changing to the appropriate receptacle, either ALWAYS hire it done or get proper training before DIY… please?


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
 
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AntonLargiader

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Easy there... no one said the device was suddenly going to start consuming more current.

Lassen Forge said:
NOOOO!!!!! Wrong wrong wrong.

The breaker is there to protect the WIRING IN THE BUILDING, not the machine. It's a safety device for the house (or shop) wiring, not some magical pressure regulator for electrical amps.

People say this backwards and it's wrong, wrong wrong - That's like saying if you have a 60 watt light (a 60 watt bulb is thereabouts 1/2 amp at 120V) plugged into a 20 amp wall circuit, the lamp will explode from all the extra amps your breaker is feeding it.

Give it a try - turn on a desk lamp, and watch the bulb explode... not.

And comparing a 120V appliance (Shaver, Vacuum) to a 230V appliance (stove, dryer) is like comparing lemons to lumber.

I don't mean to be offensive, but people who say such things need to take a course in basic electricity. And how the electric systems being delivered to your home or shop work. Or at LEAST talk to an electrician. Ok? Please?
Click to expand...
 
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nadogail

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nadogail said:
Why not put a plug that matches the existing receptacle on your saw?
Click to expand...

When I brought my new Hobart Stickmate Welder into my workshop, I called Hobart and was told that it would be OK to put a 50 Amp plug on the machine to match my existing wiring.
 
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u2slow

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Lassen Forge said:
The breaker is there to protect the WIRING IN THE BUILDING, not the machine. It's a safety device for the house (or shop) wiring, not some magical pressure regulator for electrical amps.
....
I don't mean to be offensive, but people who say such things need to take a course in basic electricity. And how the electric systems being delivered to your home or shop work. Or at LEAST talk to an electrician. Ok? Please?
Click to expand...

The breaker protects the wiring in the building, AND the wiring in the approved device by virtue of the specific nema-configuration plug used. We basically ignore/forget the 2nd part because its been consumer-idiot-proofed. Over current protection (OCP) size matters when there's a fault in the device. The adapter cord posted above bypasses that continuity of protection.

Since we don't know how the saw is manufactured, the best course of action for the OP is to check his saw's owner's manual for the maximum OCP allowed and follow it.

I am a fully qualified electrician btw.
 
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Hollywood D

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