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Question about a sub panel?

Pucman1

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So my question is I want to put a subpanel into my new addition and I'm not sure what the requirements are? Can a homeowner do the work himself and get it passed by the county! I pulled the general contractor permit but did not have electrical drawn in? It is a small addition so just need a few lights, plugs and such! I currently have a 200 amp panel with 19 free breaker locations!
 
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CNGsaves

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Attached or Detached ???

Sounds like attached.

I'd want 20 spaces so might as well get 100 amp panel that matches your 200 amp panel so you could swap breakers back & forth, if needed. Your subpanel may not "need" 100 amps ever, but having the shutoff is nice. even if you only feed it with 50 or 60 amps.
 
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DieselPills

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The sparky's should chime in soon.

Their opinion isn't really relevant regarding this question...

Ask your county or check their website. Most places allow a homeowner to get permits to do their own work. A few places do not, usually big cities. Whatever they tell you is the law.

Google "(county name here) electrical permits", and email the guy you find in charge of that.
 

ordpete944

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I'm doing all my own electrical work for my attached garage addition. I live in Polk county Florida. They allow the owner/builder to do all work as long as it is permitted and inspected. I have had no issues so far. I have installed a 100 amp subpanel and six circuits. Google your county or city's building code book online and it should tell you if you are able to.
 

pattenp

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Go to your local jurisdiction's website and look up if they allow homeowners to do their own electrical. The Va county that I'm in allows homeowners to do their own electrical.
 

theoldwizard1

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Depends on location. Most places do allow it.

On a big job, like an addition with a sub-panel, they will likely require 2 inspections, rough and finish. Check with the inspectors on what they want to see for rough (typically all boxes installed and wires run).
 

wyliesdiesels

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Their opinion isn't really relevant regarding this question...

Ask your county or check their website. Most places allow a homeowner to get permits to do their own work. A few places do not, usually big cities. Whatever they tell you is the law.

Google "(county name here) electrical permits", and email the guy you find in charge of that.

:+1:

Varies county to county...
 
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Pucman1

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So it appears that it is allowed, The guy I talked to said I would need a permit and just a rough idea of what is being installed since the base they cost of the permit on that information....time to draw it out and look at material. Oh and you are correct that it looks like two phases rough in then final.
 
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Pucman1

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So update is the rough in is done and got a permit....now to get the inspection and see how I did. I hope the inspector doesn't find much fault with my work......time will tell
 
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Pucman1

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Permit was around a c note, it was figured off of the material being added?! So I put in 100 amp sub panel, three switched outlets, 7 other outlets and an exterior switched light plus a 220 outlet. It took a while but had a friend to help out because it has been a while for me doing electrical. I will see how close I came tomorrow....oh yeah picture added of one wall.....
25266911620_95ed9d7011_c_d.jpg
 
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Pucman1

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Jacket is stamped Southwire E32071 3cdr awg2 1 Ser type xhhw-2. I am not an expert by any means but my run is only 25 or so feet from my current main panel and all pulled in the wall to the basement. None of it is exposed and the wire was suggested by an friend in the business based on inspectors in my area, load, circuits and heat specs. I will see if it is sufficient based on the inspection but from my reading it looks more than capable to handle what I am hooking up to it! I also called and ran it passed the guys in the electrical division office for the county I am in.......
 

pattenp

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Jacket is stamped Southwire E32071 3cdr awg2 1 Ser type xhhw-2. .....

I assume it's 4 wires, 3 conductors plus a ground. And if it's #2 aluminum the max amp breaker you can feed it with is a 90A when used as a sub feed.

The print should be 3 cdr awg 2 1 cdr awg 4.
 
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Pucman1

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I assume it's 4 wires, 3 conductors plus a ground. And if it's #2 aluminum the max amp breaker you can feed it with is a 90A when used as a sub feed.

The print should be 3 cdr awg 2 1 cdr awg 4.

Probably....my eyes aren't like they used to be.....so you are saying that the main breaker should 90 amp ???
 
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pattenp

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Probably....my eyes aren't like they used to be.....so you are saying that the main breaker should 90 amp ???

No..not the main breaker in the sub-panel. The breaker back in the main panel that feeds the #2 Al to the sub-panel is to be no more than 90A. The sub-panel main breaker can be 100A or larger because it just serves as a disconnect.
 
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Pucman1

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OK so the update is I had to give the contractor time to button up the punch list before I insulate and close in the walls for final inspection. It has been a tad bit on the slow side but supposedly it will happen this Friday.
 
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Pucman1

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Getting very close to trim out and firing everything up....So far so good. I spoke to the inspector and even found a way to run power between the header beam to be able to add another front light, where I wanted it.
25637235054_09edf4bfb7_z.jpg
 
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Pucman1

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Wallboard is scheduled and cut out the pan for the front light, vinyl covering. So I hope in about a week I can call for the final inspection......
 
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Pucman1

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So the trim out for all of the outlets and such starts tomorrow! Don't know if we can get it all hooked up and connected but we shall see! I will need to get a couple outside light fixtures to pass the final inspection!
 
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Pucman1

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So here we are all powered up and just waiting to pick up two exterior lights and call for final inspection......it feels good.


26934605382_a7c903dbb8_c.jpg
 
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Pucman1

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Building passed ... Electrical fail.....now I need Tamper resistant plugs on top of GFCI....friggin idiot.....it is a shop....oh well.....on the bright side FRIDAY IS MY ELECTRICAL FINAL.....I addressed everything the inspector wanted, to get my blessing.
Now can the Garage begin....thanks for all the advice and help from the group.
 

rjpete

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Your supply line is good for 100 amps. The xhhn-2 designation means there insulation is rated for 90 deg C which in turn increases the load rating by 10 amps. So your good there. You do need nail plates though.
 

sands35

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+3 You need nail protection plates on the studs. (but it's all buttoned up now?)

Nice work, BTW.

Triumps are awesome. Little street legal go carts.

TR outlets - the only place I got away without them was in the attic crawl space.
 
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Pucman1

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Yeah the gray part in the pictures was nail plates....and checked. I did keep the other outlets in case I have issues I have spare replacements
 

alfredeneuman

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Your supply line is good for 100 amps. The xhhn-2 designation means there insulation is rated for 90 deg C which in turn increases the load rating by 10 amps. So your good there. You do need nail plates though.

No, it's not good for100 amps

The conductor rating is based on the terminal temp ratings.
The 90 degree column is used solely for derating purposes.
The terminals on the breakers are on rated for 75 degrees.

90 Amps Maximum
 
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Pucman1

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What problem would be caused if a 100 amp breaker is in there vs a 90 amp? I just have mainly lighting circuits and plug outlets for the garage.....garage door opener and 1 220 outlet not currently being used.????
 

SiGmA_X

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What problem would be caused if a 100 amp breaker is in there vs a 90 amp? I just have mainly lighting circuits and plug outlets for the garage.....garage door opener and 1 220 outlet not currently being used.????
You'll fail electrical inspection again. NEC violations generally cause inspection failures.
 
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