To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Question about adding a header

mustangmike6996

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
1,180
Location
Detroit MI
I will (if everything goes as planned) be adding a 1-car garage door on the back of my garage to be able to drive my jetski trailer into my back yard.

I need to rough in an opening then cut the brick wall out.

My question is:

How do you add a header and studs/jack studs etc on a wall that is already in place?

It seems like a pretty straight forward job but I want to start planning the build out. I have framed out many different walls etc but I have never added an opening to an existing wall.

Tips, ideas, step-by-step would be appreciated.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,725
Location
SE Michigan
More or less you have to install a temporary header, I'd say 12" to 18" in from the existing wall. And support it, plus load it from underneath with post jacks (tubular screw jacks). I can't tell you the size of wood nor the number of jack posts, it differs if it was a simple 4:12 pitch roof or a full second story overhead.

Once that's done you are free to knock out the brick veneer and start cutting the frame.

My free advice is to cut the length of new header, cut the cripple studs that go above it to the top plates, and then support the new header with 4x4s plus bottle jacks. Only light pressure just enough to take up any clearance or splinters, etc, that might be in the way. Now you can measure for new jack studs, cut them 1/32" longer than measured and tap into place.

Then the existing overhead structure is supported on the new header, time to carefully, slowly unload the post jacks.
 

gahrajmahal

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
2,527
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
They did this on an episode of this old house a while back and I thought they did a great job showing the technique and proper tools.
 
OP
M

mustangmike6996

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
1,180
Location
Detroit MI
Thanks for the replies. I will get pics up as soon as I can.

Its a brick house with an attached brick garage. The construction of the garage is fairly simple. Studs are 16" O.C., I added insulation and drywall last year (never finished the drywall) so taking it down wont be an issue. Im unsure of the exact roof pitch but there is no second story.

I will look up that episode of this old house.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

umtallguy01

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2015
Messages
8
Is there a roofline on the edge your are opening? Is it load bearing? Truss roof?

Sent from my ALCATEL A564C using Tapatalk
 

gregtwojeeps

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2013
Messages
5,096
Location
Ky
Dont forget a lintle to support the bricks above the new opening if needed. Post some pics.

Good tip :thumbup:

Most likely the OP will end up just building a "wainscot" panel above his new door as it is going to be tough to cut out that opening in his brick and keep the two courses of brick above the door...intact....

I'll add another note. If the OP's home had a mason that rightfully used brick ties on his brick, it may pay for him to lay out his opening on the brick wall and go ahead and saw out his brick. Banging on and yanking out the studs with the brick ties still attached, can really upset his brick, where he does not want it upset. JMO
 

Crfdell

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
103
Location
Cambridge Ontario Canada
Wainscott panel makes sense lol �� Cheaper and faster as well, and if done properly can look good as well, always more than one way to skin a cat. Like the great ideas that come from a mass of Experience
 
OP
M

mustangmike6996

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
1,180
Location
Detroit MI
I was going to start a new thread but remembered that I had this from a long while ago.

I have not added the rear garage door yet but I am still making plans to do so eventually.

My new question is in regards to insulating and covering the ceiling in drywall. I don't have a traditional style garage, it was built more like a shed (1954 house) that is attached. There are 2 vents. I don't want to hang joists and make a flat ceiling, the vaulted ceiling is nice and roomy. I don't need to store anything above the garage.

Can I run insulation baffles from the soffit to the roof vent then insulate between all of the rafters and cover with drywall? I plan to add a heater and would like to eliminate the roof vent to mitigate heat loss.

My concern is that if I vent and drywall the garage, I might have an icedam issue with the snowy winters in Michigan.

Advice?

Below is the closest thing I can find to my build style. I cannot post pictures currently.

ridge-board-400.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom