Question about air compressor piping

[rockcrawler]

In the diesel performance world we coil the copper tubing going from the exhaust manifold to a sensor to allow the air to cool before making it to the sensor. This minimizes the chance of the sensor being damaged by the heat. Would this be a viable solution to cooling the air coming from the compressor to the air lines? I don't need a cooler or drier considering that I will very rarely use air tools.

I just purchased the RapidAir 3/4" Maxline kit and I'm trying to figure out the best way to run my system. I have a detached garage where my compressor will be located and my air line system will be located in my attached garage. There is a flexible air hose that runs underground through a PVC conduit that runs air from one garage to the other. I plan on putting a regulator and water separator inside the attached garage where the line comes in from the detached garage. Then I'll run my system from there. I also plan on doing a loop system with one drop on the left side wall, one drop on the front wall and one drop on the right wall. I've read a lot on GJ about running the air lines and it seems pretty straightforward except for all of the differing opinions.

 

[larry_g]

1. I don't need a cooler or drier considering that I will very rarely use air tools.

2. I plan on putting a regulator and water separator inside the attached garage where the line comes in from the detached garage.

RE.point 1, what are you going to be using the air for then??


RE. point 2, I would suggest that you get a tank also in the attached garage as it will help to separate out the moisture. This can be a small tank or a length of 3" or so pipe vertically. The tank or pipe gives the air a chance to slow down, cool and drop out the moisture.

Most all else seems fine. You should have some way to drain the underground line as water will collect at the lowest point there. Search out underground air lines here and you will find a couple of threads on the subject and one in the last few months with a good diagram one of the members drew.

If you go to advanced search above, use the term underground, user name larry_g, and all threads checked (not started by) you will come up with a few threads on underground air lines I have participated in. Leave my name out of it and you will get more.


lg
no neat sig line

 

[rockcrawler]

I will be using air tools, just not very often. It will also be used for airing up tires blowing off parts and work areas, car detailing, etc. The main reason why I'm installing the system is because the current system was done with PVC. I don't feel comfortable keeping that system. I've read the horror stories.

 

[kbs2244]

Your coil also helps kill vibration as well as cooling.
You want your moisture trap as close to the cooling point as possible to keep the system dry.
Feeding into the middle of an extra large section of vertical pipe will slow down the flow rate to allow the moisture to drain down to the trap.
3 or 4 feet of 2 or 3 inch pipe.
The system should feed off the top of the large pipe.

 

[CNGsaves]

Now would be good time to Update GJ Profile with City / State / Country.

Your underground building-to-building setup may work better or worse depending on your climate. Is the underground line so shallow that it's freezing and thawing over and over during winter ??

 

[rockcrawler]

Not sure how deep the line is. I just know there is a 3" pipe that goes underground and connects the two garages. There is a 1/2 air hose run through it along with some cat5 and RG59. I guess I can run the air hose from the compressor up to the ceiling and then back down to where it goes into the wall/ground. That should help to keep most of the moisture running back to the tank. Then I will place my regulator and air separator in the other garage where it comes out of the wall/ground.

 

[CNGsaves]

Sounds like you're on right track to eliminating any moisture.

In Dallas, TX you likely rarely have freeze issues so good there as well.

 

[rockcrawler]

How important is it to keep the air line the same size throughout the system? My kit is 3/4" but my current compressor only has 1/4" output. The flexible hose going from the compressor in the detached garage to the piping kit in the attached garage is 1/2". Most regulators and filters only go up to 1/2". And so on.

 

[CNGsaves]

Need more information: . . . . what is current compressor . . size / specs??

Only 1/4" output from compressor sounds awful small for the extensive airline system you'll have covering 2 buildings.

I'd follow advice of GJ gurus that say "Remove Moisture Early & Often From Airline System" . . . . so your idea of "copper cooler" could be just after compressor in first building. See prior GJ threads for Franzinator. Thus, tank of compressor with auto-drain, then Franzinator with water capture, then airline system to that building and underground to other building. Follow Larry_g advice with a small tank at 2nd building also with auto-drain. Put in ball valve shutoffs so you can isolate the buildings as needed.

All this would be nice setup . . . likely way overkill . . . but long-term setup that would grow with your needs and handle a larger compressor some day.

For filter/regulators I'd say go 3/8" or 1/2" on the cheap if any still available on the I/R Closeout website (search GJ for I/R closeout). Good luck.

 

[rockcrawler]

Compressor

Craftsman
120 Volt / 15 Amp
6HP 30 Gallon Upright
Single Cylinder/Oil Free
150 psi
11.9 CFM
8.6 SCFM @ 40 psi
6.4 SCFM @ 90 psi


I do not use the air in the detached garage. The compressor is located in the detached garage for noise reduction purposes only. That thing is really loud. The piping system is only in the attached garage.

 

[CNGsaves]

I'd build your airline system with the LONG-TERM in mind. Thus, build it so air will be readily available in both buildings. Plan a location in each where you have a hose reel.

Wouldn't hurt to increase any restrictive piping you say is 1/4" to something that would flow better like 3/8" or 1/2" since you're want best air pressure farther away in the other garage.

Now for the oil-less ear drum screamer . . .
. . . keep it just long enough until you find a vertical 60 gal 5 HP oil-splash !!

Keep your eyes peeled for CL score of permanent compressor, as general public will still buy your Craftsman (big metro area of DFW likely contains plenty customers who'd buy $150 compressor, regardless of decibel level).

 

[rockcrawler]

Thanks for all of the great suggestions.